Really Dark Wood...Primer/Application Q - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

**slickshift** · 04-26-2006, 07:50 PM

Looking at an un-attached garage, almost a barn
H/O DIYed a finished room out of it
It's now like a workshop with a little loft
Wants to maybe throw a futon in/up there (kids hang-out? Guest overflow?)
The ceiling and under the loft is raw wood, old and has had water damage over the years
The wife would like that all white

Normally, for such dark wood, I'd BIN it
But
A) It's a large area for those kind of fumes
and 2) It's a fair amount of area to be hanging out in those fumes
Really it's all ceiling...and the ceiling is not smooth, it's raw old school wood

As the place can be cleared out, and the walls will need priming/painting too, I was thinking if there's some primer that just might cut it that I can spray with an airless it would save a heck of a lot of time
If it were not for the dark wood it would be a no-brainer

Any ideas on a good way to get this place white?
Here's some pics:
Ceiling/Loft
Close-up of a dark area
Walls
Thanks in advance for any tips trick, hints or solutions

painterman · 04-26-2006, 08:23 PM

I would use Cabots Problem Solver oil primer. That stuff sticks to anything and will seal back any tannin bleed through.

Stan

Exroadog · 04-26-2006, 08:28 PM

Or Zinsser Cover Stain.

George Z · 04-26-2006, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by painterman

I would use Cabots Problem Solver oil primer. That stuff sticks to anything and will seal back any tannin bleed through.

Stan

Stan,
Does it really work that good as a stain primer?
Exterior oil primers may be deadly inside.
Can you use a spray can to shellac knots and stains and use either
Zinsser Odorless alkyd primer or PPG alkyd/synthetic Sealgrip
stain primer?

phinsher · 04-26-2006, 09:04 PM

Sherwin Williams has the Pro-Block primer. ITs sprayable and has very little odor. We just sprayed aprox. 2500 sq ft of old T&G ceilings with it a few weeks ago. I was wearing a respirator, but before i walked out I decided to test the "low odor" aspect and well its true. Just make sure you get the oil and not the latex problock.

**slickshift** · 04-26-2006, 09:09 PM

I'm not afraid to respirator-up, but that "upstairs" is a fume catcher,and upside-down mixing bowl....it's windy out there, but I seriously doubt I could get a good cross breeze up there
It's really more like a cut-away attic...no windows or anything

Did I mention the wood is dark?
Lol
The odorless sealer I use (Aqua-Lock) would not cut it here
The primer/sealer would have to kick Aqua-Lock's butt for me not to need two coats primer/sealer

If they are spray-able, needing two coats would be less of an issue
I could prep in safety, suit-up, spray, and get the heck out of there-twice-quicker than one coat by hand

phinsher · 04-27-2006, 03:12 PM

I'd hit it with 2 coats of primer.

I'll tell ya how odorless the problock is, i sprayed aprox 1200 sq ft with no respirator and wasn't a problem. I know it was dumb, and did put it on for the second half and each coat after that, but the smell is nothing like shellac or kilz.

**slickshift** · 04-27-2006, 03:24 PM

Now that's interesting
I just got back from SWP

I'm a Ben Moore guy, but with this relocation I'm finding better contractor geared service with SWP, so I've been using more of that lately
Needless to say I am not familiar with SWP products
(Well, one or two so far)

I showed him the pics, and asked what to use
He suggested BIN

He also suggested A-100 ext. oil primer, as it's a garage

He also said the ProBlock Oil Odorless is not sprayable
He said in the field they were thinning it as much as 50% to spray it

Sounds like you guys have been spraying it

painterofeveryt · 04-27-2006, 03:38 PM

why not two coats of oil based kilz with a fresh air respirator?or a fan sucking out the door.with a few leaks in the building should help alot eh ?

Woz the Painter · 04-27-2006, 03:46 PM

Or spray her with aluminum, especially if your favorite color is silver. And oh watch out for SW, as far as shaking primers or standard colors, the one near me never does, and I tell them every time.

**slickshift** · 04-27-2006, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by painterofeveryt

why not two coats of oil based kilz

Original Kilz works all right, but it's a bit wiffy also
For two coats of that I think I'd just as soon use one of BIN and be done with it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woz the Painter

spray her with aluminum

Ya lost me there, Woz

Woz the Painter · 04-27-2006, 11:54 PM

slickshift.... aluminum paint, being basically aluminum powder in varnish, is one of the best stain [knot] blockers ever. It's just a bitch to cover with your finish coat. We used it on old painted mahogony crown and base that had extensive bleeding, before repainting. Kilz, BIN, or shellac wouldn't hold back the bleeding, so one of the old timers said try aluminum, and it worked like a charm.

**slickshift** · 04-28-2006, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woz the Painter

slickshift.... aluminum paint, being basically aluminum powder in varnish, is one of the best stain [knot] blockers ever. It's just a bitch to cover with your finish coat. We used it on old painted mahogony crown and base that had extensive bleeding, before repainting. Kilz, BIN, or shellac wouldn't hold back the bleeding, so one of the old timers said try aluminum, and it worked like a charm.

Wow
That's wild stuff Woz
I don't recall seeing/hearing any aluminum stuff like that before
I was wondering if maybe the aluminum was "to keep the government rays" out of your head there...j/k-lol
Thanks for the tip

phinsher · 04-28-2006, 03:47 PM

Slickshift, Just looked at the cans i used, its Problock HS. Its the high solids version of ProBlock in the states that can't use oil based paint. It has a little place on the label thats says "sprayable". Not sure if ya can get the stuff in your area, but we've had good luck with it. I also like shellac and Cover Stain, but when spraying the lower odor products are great.