Questions About Interior Trim Spraying

Jerdog44

I'm doing a new construction home and the contractor wants a spray finish on the interior trim and doors, which is fine. Except he wants it in SW oil base, and I'm used to either spraying latex or brushing the oil. All the trim is hung and raw, and his guys already pretty much filled all the holes with putty.

My questions are:

1. Do I HAVE to prime the trim with oil since the finish is oil? Or can I use a latex primer?

2. Regardless if the primer is oil or latex, can I spray the primer? Or would brushing be recommended?

3. Isn't it bad to fill holes prior to priming? Or does that actually help cover them somewhat better?

4. Will the overspray from the oil finish on the walls(next to casing) "flash" the sheen of the wall paint?

These may seem like amateur questions, which I am not, but I'm trying to better myself and any input would be appreciated.

Joewho

It's always recommended that putty be used after priming, but in the real world, half the time, it goes on raw wood. Especially if the gc is taking care of that part of it.

Historically, you shouldn't use latex under oil. These days, there is probably a latex primer you can use under oil paint. Talk to the SW Manager or District rep. I would go with a solvent based primer either way. Most solvent primers dry really fast anyway and they sand nice.

What sheen of paint is on the wall now? You'll have to cut in all the areas that are sprayed, unless you tape it off first with the easymasker and paper.

gideond

Any 100% Acrylic primer should be fine. I'd use oil though. On raw wood it just penetrates and seals better.

Mandrake

Agree with the above posts. Probably best to use an oil primer - something quick-drying. Might want use a shield, or if you have the time, masking to prevent flashing of the wall paint. What's going on the walls? Are they being primed? A coat of SW prep-bond should take care of any flashing concerns of overspray on the walls

Make sure you have good ventilation when spraying oil and wear a respirator

Mndrk

Workaholic

1. I would use an oil based primer, i used to spray all interior trim with a high gloss oil. I was partial to original kilz.
2. I would definitly spray the primer because you will not leave any brush marks.
3. I always fill holes prior to priming, i also do all my caulking then as well.
4. You will not have any problems with flashing. Prior to putting your wall primer on give it a good sanding around all casings and colums, ect.
Another thing i would do is i would not thin your finish coat, if you feel you need to i would give it a shot of laquer. Another thing i would add to the finish would be a generous amount of japan drier, do not worry that the japan drier looks redish, it will not alter the color.
Also if you are using a color other than white, like a off white. Then check back on yourself. Off white colors made from pastel bases or colors with a lot of pigment will run or sag easier. Take your time and you will be alright.

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Sean

Jerdog44

Very helpful guys. Thank you. The walls in this house are already primed, so I may just use a shield. Never tried to caulk and fill prior to priming, but I'm gonna give it shot. I'll also try the japan drier which I have not used before. You have to learn new tricks all the time to make money and improve quality. Once again, appreciated.

PlainPainter

I always use to putty holes and caulk after priming - then it occured to me - that lots of wood fillers are used on raw wood to hide nails prior to poly'ing. And in that case - you never prime. Then it occured to me why not use an oil based filler, or wood filler. So now I use Muralo's exterior/interior spackle - and let me tell you, that stuff don't shrink! I have had tremendous success with it. And since I do it before priming - it gives me a good reason to sand -the bare wood before priming, something I don't think is necessary - but lots of guys say they do. So I just make my strokes 'wider' so when I am sanding down the filler - the wood gets a sanding too. As to caulking - still a purist, would never caulk before priming - always after.

welovepainting

I have noticed no mater what oil primer we use it must be thinned at least 10% or it sprays though the tip like a needle. When we spray primer we use an airless and muchless just dust coat the trim. Dont worry about coverage or building it up at the prime stage.

I agree with workahoilc not to thin oil finish paint only a squirt of jap drier.

Make sure you where a respirator.

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premierpainter

We-
-Spray all trim with latex primer
-Fill all nail holes with wood filler
-Sand all trim
Spray second coat of primer
-Fill nail holes once again using a razor to skim it on
-Spray SW Pro XP oil to all trim
-Final sanding
-Spray all areas again
You will never see a better finish than this. Not one nail hole is seen and the finish is like glass.
ONLY use this method if you can charge for it. If not, skip the second primer

back@it

I have always used glazing compound as my putty in nail holes. It's a very easy thing to do...take a piece about 1/2 the size of a golf ball and just push the putty into the hole using your thumb, then while the thumb still has pressure on the putty, push your putty knife under the thumb/putty to 'cut' it off clean over the hole! No shrinkage but you must be sure that enough putty has been pushed into the hole.

Anybody else here use it?

LouisZerr

We use glazing compound for exterior nail holes and occasionally for interior nail holes...we also take a ball of it and roll it in some Fix-All or un-sanded grout and it makes it so it's not all sticky.


LZ

welovepainting

We used to use window glazing like 10-15 years ago I dont like the finsihed look. We either using shrink free spackeling or eay sand wood filler, we fill the holes twice and prime twice for high end work.

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back@it

Another method I use to un-sticky it is take a gob and flatten it out on a piece of cardboard. The oil from the putty will absorb out into the cardboard and become workable. Don't leave it too long as it can get too dry!

Runamuk

Wow,

Spraying oil brings back memories. I've not used an oil based enamel in 10 years. (California low VOC oil is junk)

I still use high build lacquer undercoat (still available here). Undercoat, sand, Crawfords painters putty for the holes and Dap 230 Powerpoint for caulking two coats of oil or waterbased enamel and you are good to go.

If flashing might be a problem mask 1' off of the trim and use a 211 tip.

Hope this helps.

Rick