Question about man hour rates - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Dorman Painting · 05-01-2006, 08:12 PM

I'm getting ready to bid a deck job that I will pressure wash and stain. It's going to take roughly 30 man hours from start to finish. For my rates that equates to 30 X 40.00 = 1200.00 for the job. The stain I'm buying will be close to 300.00 in material. Should I add that 300 on to the 1200 or is that typically included in someone's man hour rate. Another words, is the material included in your man hour rates or do you add the material on after you've figured your man hour rates?

donb1959 · 05-01-2006, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorman Painting

I'm getting ready to bid a deck job that I will pressure wash and stain. It's going to take roughly 30 man hours from start to finish. For my rates that equates to 30 X 40.00 = 1200.00 for the job. The stain I'm buying will be close to 300.00 in material. Should I add that 300 on to the 1200 or is that typically included in someone's man hour rate. Another words, is the material included in your man hour rates or do you add the material on after you've figured your man hour rates?

The matierial is seperate, you're talking 1200.00 labor 300.00 matierial.

**joasis** · 05-01-2006, 08:30 PM

Did you also consider the equipment cost in the bid or are you providing the power washing with the $40/pr/hr.? Sounds like you are just getting started or fishing a bid.

**slickshift** · 05-01-2006, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorman Painting

...is the material included in your man hour rates or do you add the material on after you've figured your man hour rates?

Material is added to the man hours
As is equipment rental, sundries, any fudge factors or PITA charges
Oh yeah, and profit
Seriously, don't forget to add 15% for profit

firemike · 05-02-2006, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Material is added to the man hours
As is equipment rental, sundries, any fudge factors or PITA charges
Oh yeah, and profit
Seriously, don't forget to add 15% for profit

Very Correct! Otherwise you are giving the customer 7.5 hours for free if you include materials in the labor rate.

Also,

It takes time to pick the material up, time to load and unload the powerwasher and other equipment, the wear and tear on the equipment (someone has to pay for gasoline, oil changes, repairs, etc.)

What about material or equipment to apply the stain, that is a direct cost too.

Gas for the vehicle.

It all comes out of your pocket, so don't cut yourself short.

AAPaint · 05-02-2006, 06:51 PM

Just out of curiousity, when you say pressure wash....what do you mean? What type of wood is it? Is it new wood? Un-treated, or previously stained? Pressure treated or not? The only time I would just pressure wash and stain is if it's relatively new wood. Otherwise, you might need to use at least a percarbonate cleaner followed by a brightener. Keep the pressure between 800-1200 psi MAX and hopefully you won't have much furring.

I just get nervous when I hear "pressure wash and stain" when it comes to exterior wood. There are too many people destroying beatiful wood with the wrong processes.

Guardi Pro · 05-02-2006, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

Just out of curiousity, when you say pressure wash....what do you mean? What type of wood is it? Is it new wood? Un-treated, or previously stained? Pressure treated or not? The only time I would just pressure wash and stain is if it's relatively new wood. Otherwise, you might need to use at least a percarbonate cleaner followed by a brightener. Keep the pressure between 800-1200 psi MAX and hopefully you won't have much furring.

I just get nervous when I hear "pressure wash and stain" when it comes to exterior wood. There are too many people destroying beatiful wood with the wrong processes.

AA...Would you explain the procedure with the percarbonate cleaner and brightener... Are you applying with a pump sprayer or with PW. We have a log cabin that is cedar and what painted, with what else HD bear stain... Gosh I hate to see such nice wood painted...

AAPaint · 05-02-2006, 10:14 PM

You can apply with pump up sprayers. We are using them on a cedar home right now. Make sure it's all plastic!! Or you can invest in a sureflo pump setup which is basically a tank, hoses, pump, and battery that pumps chems for you.

If it's got Behr stain on it, it's gonna be hell, but you'll need a sodium hydroxide stripper like Timberstrip Pro and probably a couple of applications. You simply spray it on, let it dwell 15-20 mins keeping it wet, do NOT let it dry. Once it's sat, hit it with the pw and the 800-1200psi I mentioned. The old stain should just run right off if you're lucky. Strip it all down quickly with the pw, then rinse, rinse, rinse. Once you're done, spray on the brightener (you can use TimberBright Pro, both found here: http://www.deckguide.com/product2-1....on%20Chemicals Let it dwell for the same amount of time, and give it a good rinsing again. When you apply it, the wood will literally change colors right before your eyes. When it dries, you have brand new wood, if done right.

TEST with a moisture meter to be sure it's below 12% moisture and then stain with your favorite penetrating oil stain.

Guardi Pro · 05-03-2006, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

You can apply with pump up sprayers. We are using them on a cedar home right now. Make sure it's all plastic!! Or you can invest in a sureflo pump setup which is basically a tank, hoses, pump, and battery that pumps chems for you.

If it's got Behr stain on it, it's gonna be hell, but you'll need a sodium hydroxide stripper like Timberstrip Pro and probably a couple of applications. You simply spray it on, let it dwell 15-20 mins keeping it wet, do NOT let it dry. Once it's sat, hit it with the pw and the 800-1200psi I mentioned. The old stain should just run right off if you're lucky. Strip it all down quickly with the pw, then rinse, rinse, rinse. Once you're done, spray on the brightener (you can use TimberBright Pro, both found here: http://www.deckguide.com/product2-1....on%20Chemicals Let it dwell for the same amount of time, and give it a good rinsing again. When you apply it, the wood will literally change colors right before your eyes. When it dries, you have brand new wood, if done right.

TEST with a moisture meter to be sure it's below 12% moisture and then stain with your favorite penetrating oil stain.

Thanks AA

Dorman Painting · 05-03-2006, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

Just out of curiousity, when you say pressure wash....what do you mean? What type of wood is it? Is it new wood? Un-treated, or previously stained? Pressure treated or not? The only time I would just pressure wash and stain is if it's relatively new wood. Otherwise, you might need to use at least a percarbonate cleaner followed by a brightener. Keep the pressure between 800-1200 psi MAX and hopefully you won't have much furring.

I just get nervous when I hear "pressure wash and stain" when it comes to exterior wood. There are too many people destroying beatiful wood with the wrong processes.

It is a fifteen year old deck that is totally greyed out for the most part. It is treated wood which is the standard for building decks. I pressure washed it yesterday and it came out fine. All of the grey came off and it's ready to seal up. I use much more pressure than 1200 PSI and don't have problems with furring. Hell, if I used just 1200 PSI I'd be on the deck for a week trying to clean it. No sense in making the job tougher than it already is IMO. Furthermore, it's an exterior deck, not an interior door jamb that should be smooth as silk.