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11-27-2006, 11:06 AM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 314
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Protection for Kitchen Cabinets
I was wondering about Kitchen Cabinets how do you guys go about painting it to make sure that paint doesn't scrub off.
Semi-gloss, gloss?
A brand you favor for kitchen cabinets?
Do you do anything extra like put a polyurethane over them?
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11-27-2006, 06:45 PM
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#2
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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I use good paint
I am actually going to sand, prime with bin, paint, paint with satin impervo--some cabinets soon. I'll post some before/afters later this month.
good paint needs no magic trick to work well
__________________
Rich
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11-27-2006, 07:19 PM
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#3
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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Properly prepped and quality painted cabs will last a long, long, time
An oil-based enamel is pretty darn tough
Waterborne enamel, almost as good
I prefer the Ben Moore Impervo products, but I'm sure the SWP comparable product is also good
__________________
Signature Quote
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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12-02-2006, 09:12 AM
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#4
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New Guy
Trade:
Painter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Morristown, TN
Posts: 22
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I have done three kitchens over the last few months which have been cream in color with a brown glaze wiped on.After degreasing and sanding I use BIN primer, then I paint two coats of 'pro classic' latex enamel from SW. Then I do the glazing effect, then finish off with a coat of clear protector from the faux finish section at lowes. I did the same with my own kitchen last christmas and it still looks good a year down the line..........Paul.
__________________
Paul Hart
The English Decorating Co. Inc.
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12-03-2006, 10:21 AM
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#5
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukpaul
I have done three kitchens over the last few months which have been cream in color with a brown glaze wiped on.After degreasing and sanding I use BIN primer, then I paint two coats of 'pro classic' latex enamel from SW. Then I do the glazing effect, then finish off with a coat of clear protector from the faux finish section at lowes. I did the same with my own kitchen last christmas and it still looks good a year down the line..........Paul.
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sounds like a good process right there
Pro classic latex is awesome. I think it looks better than the pro classic oil. Pro classic and satin impervo are equal in my eyes--I use both almost exclusively for trim.
__________________
Rich
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12-03-2006, 11:26 AM
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#6
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Pro Painter
Trade:
Painting Contractor
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,313
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Yup....trim for me is Pro Classic waterborne. It gives me a look very much like oil with water clean up. Love it.
__________________
-AAPaint
AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.
Quote:
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“Knowledge will forever govern ignorance; and a people who mean to be their own governors must arm themselves with the power which knowledge gives.” -James Madison
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12-03-2006, 08:09 PM
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#7
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Member
Trade:
painter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 36
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I have always loved the pro-classic waterborne or muralo ultra, always deliver an outstandung finished product. I am now doing a job where I am using insul-x cabinet coat. Wow, looks great, dries hard, levels at least as good if not better than pro-classic. BUT...man, what a learning curve with this...very thin and runs like an anxious horse on opening day at Saratoga. It can sag and curtain when nothing else would have. This will quickly become my fave if I can adjust to it quick enough. Anyone else use this before?
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12-03-2006, 08:26 PM
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#8
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Pro
Trade:
Painter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 490
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cabinet coat
I have been using the cabinet coat for almost all my brush work lately, do not dare to try spraying airless it yet though. I second the learning curve on that stuff though, definetely not for rookies to use. I am still working to get perfect results with no runs or sags to sand out, especially if there is any extra detailed moulding areas.
I have sprayed it will HVLP and when it was left in the pressure pot, it formed a yellow precipitate that would leave grit in the finish and was too small to filer out with the cone or net type filters. I thought it was a reaction with the metal tube in the pot, but the last gallon I had did the same thing with the portion that was sitting in the gallon and I am not sure what the deal is with that.
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12-03-2006, 10:32 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
interior paint contractor and window treatment workroom
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 326
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i clean all the grease/oil/dirt off the cabinets...use oil based paint....use the foam rollers....then added the paint to polyurethane to make the glaze for the faux ...it faux and protect in one coat finish...my bm dealer suggested it.
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12-04-2006, 04:12 AM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW Suburban Chicago
Posts: 708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnmaster
i clean all the grease/oil/dirt off the cabinets...use oil based paint....use the foam rollers....then added the paint to polyurethane to make the glaze for the faux ...it faux and protect in one coat finish...my bm dealer suggested it.
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Since when did your paint dealer become your advisor on what to do for a job? If that's your only clue, your in big trouble, learn the trade, don't let it learn you...
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12-04-2006, 09:55 AM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 314
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So harsh. Maybe his BM dealer is an ex-painter, or has a lot of experience. Nothing wrong with learning something new no matter who its from, espeically if it works.
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12-04-2006, 10:25 AM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Painter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 490
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paint and poly mix
With glazes you typically brush it on then wipe it off which allows the color to be darker in recessed areas and lighter in other areas. If you are just brushing on the tinted poly, then you would not be able to achieve this effect. If you are looking for a more even effect, then it might work fine.
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12-04-2006, 05:40 PM
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#13
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metomeya
So harsh. Maybe his BM dealer is an ex-painter, or has a lot of experience. Nothing wrong with learning something new no matter who its from, espeically if it works.
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I was gonna say something, but I've cooled off in here--
I've actually learned a whole lot from my manager bud at Sherwin. Anytime I call and have some weird scenario or problem, he gives me his opinion (by the book, of course) and even if I dont use his advice, I usually learn something. When you get to the point where you're picking and choosing who to take advice from, you're headed in the wrong direction. Advice is free, mistakes aren't
__________________
Rich
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12-04-2006, 08:45 PM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
Painter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 845
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I know what he means though. Not all people behind the counter know what's going on at the site. Book knowledge compared to practical knowledge.
Plus, they sometimes give advice that steers you to buy, buy, buy. It's better to learn the trade so you know when the advice is good or not, i guess.
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12-04-2006, 10:03 PM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 314
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Hey, there is a lot of bad advice out there, but if you take it with a bit of salt and use your head, at this stage you should be able to separate the good and the bad.
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12-04-2006, 10:05 PM
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#16
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Pro
Trade:
Painter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metomeya
Hey, there is a lot of bad advice out there, but if you take it with a bit of salt and use your head, at this stage you should be able to separate the good and the bad.
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I got ya, take what you need, leave the rest.
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