Priming/painting Exterior Brick

ModernStyle

Whats a good SW blockfiller/primer for exterior brick ? I mainly use ICI products so I dont know too many SW products. I have a brick house to paint, the nearest ICI is over 2 hours away but there is an SW right around the corner. It is close to 500 miles away from home so I dont want to transport any products that far.
The brick is pretty smooth, the mortar is solid, the guy just wants it painted for some reason.

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capital city

Loxon, there is a loxon primer for masonry surfaces and there is a topcoat if you want it, if not use the primer and either Super Paint or Duration.

HCPainting

Loxon masonry primer. Loxon XP top coat. Sw swears they can match any color w the xp.

Kuba

If you use Duration be careful to not over apply it.. Its a pro only use paint in my opinion. A HO would hate this paint b/c they are slow going.

To many mils of duration will actually be a bad deal for you. Talk to your rep about it, seriously.

Duration is supposidly a 1 coat finish paint. It is not designed for multi coats. Its almost like a glue (it tightens up big time - self priming properties etc).

It covers really nice, but its not very easy to apply on surfaces such as brick or worn out wood siding. It gets real gumy real fast, and you will find that you will have to clean your gear frequently while in the process of laying it on... Im sure you do, but make sure you move fast as hell and/or have someone with you to roll it on quickly... It sets up on your equipment and brushes a lot faster than other paints when its hot out side.

Others might do things dif.. But i would half tint your primer to match the finish color of the duration.

I know 1 coat sounds like you're cheating your customer, but you're not.. If you use it, youll know what im talkn about when you're done. It covers real nice.

Honestly, id probably stay away from Duration on the brick.. Luxon is your best choice like the other guys said... Id perfer Duration on a real bad wood exterior resto job.

DavidNTX

If you spray it and the mortor joints are below the face of the brick it will have to be sprayed from 4 directions to get all of the edges. That puts 4 coats on the face of the brick.

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NAV

I agree, Loxon is the primer you want to use.

Block filler is for block. it fills the holes in the block so you have a solid surface.

Mr. Mike

I can't back up my reply with proof... I don't agree that multiple coats of duration is a bad thing. It looks best with 2 coats...

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capital city

Agree, the satin usually needs 2 coats because if yhour not real careful you can see the lap marks easily with just 1. Ive never heard more then 1 coat was bad. What do you do after you paint a house with Duration if you can never put another coat over it.

ModernStyle

what are you guys paying for the Loxon, my ICI sales rep is quoting me a price on their equivalent for $90 a 5. Still trying to decide if I should just get the primer here since I can return what I don't use if I don't have it tinted.

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capital city

Duration does not "tighten up" it is more like rubber and stays flexible. Thats why it stays on so well and doesnt pop off. When wood and so forth expands and contracts it pushes or pops paint off. But Duration more or less forms a mold onto or around the surface and expands and contracts with it. This is not some crap from a rep this is coming from someone who uses it on nearly every job for the last 7 years first hand, not my crew. Duration is some awesome stuff and thanks to it I have been able to compete with all the hacks that think it cost to much and end up putting more coats on of other material which makes no sense.Just to be clear though it is self priming but not for masonry which is what this thread is about. Use the Loxon primer first and youll be good.

tsunamicontract

Thats what I thought. Then I was talking to my SW rep in my store the other day and he said that people have been having problems where the previous coatings are getting pulled off the substrate because the duration bites so hard and then tightens up. Direct from the mouth of my SW rep.

Kuba

That is what i was trying to get at, but im not very good at explaining things.

The last exterior i did with Duration looked awesome with 1 coating (was my first time using Duration per my reps recomendation).. I did not spray the job at all... I worked the paint in very well with brush/roll.. If you saw the extent of damage of this wood youd understand why.. Spraying it would have only help me get paint on the wall, nothing more nothing less..

I agree it is rubbery, but it does tighten up over time and yes it does pull previous paint from the walls if there are to many mils applied.

Hey, I trust my rep, I trust you guys too. Its important that painters talk about products for many important reasons. Just because 1 paint works well on one particular application doesnt mean it will work with everything.

ALso, you can use more than 1 coating of Duration, never said you couldnt... Only said its unadvisable.. However, like anything else the Color, Sheen, and surface might influance that choice.

The last job i did with Duration, I loved how it turned out.. It covered completely with 1 coating - i **** you not. It was the first time I had every only used 1 coating on ANY of my jobs - EVER. I spoke to the woman that owned the house last year... She says the restoration job that i did is still holing up (7yrs later) and the rest of the house that she did not have rehabed is in god awful shape and wants me to come out and price her for the whole house to be rehabed this time. I drove out to her house to take a look at it... Her whole house is oh my fkn god... looks like ****... But the 1 wall she had me restor looks brand new

4thGeneration

Ben Moore used to have a water proofer that was breathable. I liked Sherlastic as well as a Product from Porter. I use SunShield time to time when a HO can afford it. There is so many things you want to accomplish.

Bond/Seal/Breathe/Not Fade/Not Crack/Not Chip/Not Peel

All that is of coarse contingent with the proper low pressure cleaning to get it paint ready. Yes, there is a difference between paint and non paint ready. Do all the needed repairs, feather sand and scrape loose paint and choosing the right caulk. I always caulk everything up as it was a new project and window frames also. I like the Sherlastic and moorlastic caulks.

To find it like that to work in every environment is the trick. If it does not hold up over in say Cambodia I am not too worried. It has to be relative to where you live.

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sparehair

The last job u did with duration was seven years ago?

Kuba

Yup...

Whats wrong with Superpaint?

Mr. Mike

I just got that and must say I am a bit disappointed.

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Mr. Mike

You say you trust your rep and he don't push duration down your throat, I'd look for another rep right away. Not much is wrong with super paint it is just a lesser of a product than duration.

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Kuba

Hows Portland? I want to move there so bad.. I F KING HATE the east coast...

If it wasnt for my wife i wouldnt be here....

Mr. Mike

Hey the Portland Louisville festival is this weekend, I know you meant the other.

I painted 1 house there in about 4 years and maybe 3 in 12, other than that and an occasional festival I don't get there much.

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Kuba

I dont know you guys product prices so i cannot judge... I however have a substantial difference between the two...

That doesnt go without saying when its 80+ outside i ****n hate working with duration...

everyone likes their brands... if im going to be prosecuted for prefering SP over duration pfft... whateva