Primer Questions

rebar17

Hi guys, nice site. I have some questions about which primer to use for what purpose on a house I am remodeling. I am partial to zinsser primers and BM paints, all finish paints to be latex, I am open to any brand name suggestions however.

The house is 1930 vintage, wood ext and plaster interior. I will limit my questions to the interior for now. The existing plaster walls are good/solid with the exception of settling cracks. The walls also have a slight texture which I don't really care for. The trim has a gloss finish, chipping thru in few spots, and appears to have been painted twice in it's lifetime. My plans are to hotmud and paper tape the cracks, then skin coat the walls with joint compound and after taping the ceiling, apply a texture too it. Either a knockdown or brush stomped. I currently have some of the walls done, effectively a 100% joint compound surface. The ceilings will be taped only, not skimmed. Questions as follows:

What primer would I want to use over the wall surface?

What primer would I want to use after the ceiling is taped, but before the texture is applied?

What primer over the texture?

What primer over the gloss trim paint and is there one that encapsulates better? Lead paint is a concern.

Lastly, if wallpaper becomes a choice, what primer do I want under that?

daArch

I'll answer the wallpaper part. I have installed very succesfully over both Z's 1-2-3 and BM's Acyrlic Fresh Start. But whatever, make sure it's a TOP QUALITY acrylic waterborne primer sealer.

BTW, please use regular JC (USG Green Label) if you must float the whole wall. The Blue is too soft for my liking with wallcoverings

About those cracks. Being 1930's construction, can I assume horsehair plaster on wood lathe ? If so, most likely the plaster keys have broken off near the cracks. If so and you just tape and mud, the cracks will reappear. Kinda like two tectonic plates that move independantly from each other. If the keys are broken, secure the plaster on each side of the cracks with ceiling buttons - aka plaster washers


Also, you do know how to back-cut a crack before repairs? Unless these are tiny hairline fissures - which I doubt, knowing plaster walls.

Can you post a picture of some of the worse cracks?

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rebar17

Here is a (typical) pic of the wall cracks. The cracks were knifed out and then Veed with a can opener. That's already been done in the 1st pic.

(insert pic here, apparently I need 15 posts first to do that)

This is a pic with the tape on (same spot) The larger cracks got opened up but the hairlines just got taped.

(insert 2nd pic here)



Thank you for the info on the washers, I will be ordering some asap for the ceiling. I would love to use 123, I am just not sure if it's the best choice for a completely compounded surface. I did use the green lid pail for the skim coat.

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mjay

I would prime the walls and ceilings with something that would give you a "Vapour Barrier", BM Super Spec 260 for example. Heat retention, low perm ratings (increase the life of the exterior paint), alkaline resistant.

As for the trim, if it has historical value remove [when possible] and strip outside, either chemical [be sure to neutralize] of heat [infrared stripper]. Windows and doors should be stripped also, painted surfaces rubbing produce lead dust.
Contact your local health department for approved encapsulants: Primer is not an encapsulant.


Consider replacing all windows and trim, shame I know, but the health of the occupants is paramount.

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regal

how about hiring a painter to do the work and making a profit on top of that? I dont pick up nail guns, this leaves more money in your pocket, so you don't need a brush.

rebar17

That was a good answer. I did as much reading on that subject as I could find, previously I was under the impression that "painted over" was good enough. NOT!

The windows are goin, but I would like to keep the trim, so am considering encapsulating with child guard at this point. I'm gonna mull that over some.

neolitic

SSSSHush! Them there buttons is a secret weapon. Gee do they ever save grief! This is worth what you are paying--several years ago we were told by local health dept, that SW "Wall Liner" would pass the encapsulation test. Helped solve several problems at one lick. Luckily the trim was still stained, so no lead problems there.

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(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

rebar17

Regal, your post is full of assumptions, lol. The worst one is a)that there is any money in this job and b) that if there was money, that you would know more than me about how to direct it to my pocket.

As for nail guns, I have them all, doubles and triples of some and I am not in short supply of brushes either. Looking back at what I've paid painters over the last 32 years against what painters have paid me in the same time frame, there is a tremendous imbalance there, it ain't even close. So relax, and don't underestimate people based on the trade they list under their name and make assumptions.

That said, let me explain that this house is 3 hours north of me and I did ask my painter if he'd go and basically he said yes, but his heart wasn't in it and that's ok with me. But the prospects of hiring someone new and unknown do not appeal to me right now, mostly because I have a damn good painter now and have been kinda spoiled. As you know, all painters are NOT created equal. So right now, I got 4 rooms to do upstairs and I figure I'm the best man for it. I won't be painting the exterior next spring, but I don't like vinyl either, so somebody, i.e. a painter will be gettin that, as it is a mess. If they are any good, they can do the main interior floor too, so relax.

regal

ok, but why didnt you just ask your "damn good painter" these questions?.....as for your project, "bonding primer" will work on all the surfaces. I use sherwin williams. sounds like children will be living there, (you had said lead would be an issue) you would be smart to buy a hepa vacumn, not a hepa filtered vacumn, but a hepa vacumn, to vac lead dust, (around $1500.) and then call in a company to do lead wipings (they will analize the wipings and give you an ok or nay). Im not going to assume you dont know this, but lead dust is invisible to the naked eye. Kids are contaminated by crawling or playing on the floor then putting there hands in there mouths. The "eating chips" theroy is a myth. If you have disturbed any trim, you have contaminated the house, especially pulling windows. If you used a shop vac, you have spread it everywhere. good luck

mjay

We live to renovate exteriors!!

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There's some top class people on this forum,........and then there's me...Touching cloth.

mjay

Some close ups.

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There's some top class people on this forum,........and then there's me...Touching cloth.

regal

peel away?

mjay

Nope.

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There's some top class people on this forum,........and then there's me...Touching cloth.

regal

well, not gonna play guess this prep item.

DeanV

Paint shaver? Although, if you are holding a propane tank in your hand on the plank, it looks like you did a little burning also. Am I warm?