Preferred Exterior Paint

davidanbess

Hi, client has used oil solidstain in the past and swears by it what is the preferred/best oil to use
Also it has tons of m/m (see pics) and he does not want to apply much pressure when power washing it,what is the best solution/cleaner to remove mildew using a low pressure wash.

Regards D/B

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We Fix Houses

Preferred exterior paint

Do you want to go back with paint or solid stain ? How many years since the last stain app. I'll guess 10 yrs. You might be ready for cleaning, latex primer then 1 - 2 coats SW Duration flat. Latex paint, don't know about stain, will resist m/m better.

There's a lot to be said for ob products especially primers but with the technology advances in latex coatings in the last several yrs latex is now superior in most cases. Ob as you know is being phased out. We're in the last few yrs of the EPA's 10 yr plan. The conversion to wb coatings happens one painter at a a time.

As far as the m/m, I use 10% bleach, 10% Simple Green, 80% water. Sponge / bristle brush or pump spray on, hose off (and before). A lot of folks use Jomax products too.

Look around the neighborhood and see what apps are occurring. I'd stop and ask. Your client will.

Snow Man

Steer her to a latex solid ............covers a multitude of sins and very forgiving vs. the erl

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slickshift

Sikkens Rubol Solid Stain
Wash-Safe's Mold and Mildew or their Painter's Wash
(Same thing I think, just dif. packaging)

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

painterman

Mold loves to live on oil. Power wash as stated and cover with Cabots ProVt solid latex stain ...your customer will

davidanbess

thanks for the replies, did'nt really think that the latex based stain would have been more durable than the oil, also will this product (Wash-Safe's Mold and Mildew)
after application be easily removed with a low pressure wash

Many thanks again D/B

gideond

I still don't buy that mold and mildew love oil so much. Of all the oil work that has been done in this area over the past few decades and still continues to this day, mold and mildew has never been one of the more prevalent issues we've run into. Most alkyds now are synthetic based as opposed to pure linseed and virtually all exterior products contain mildewcides.

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slickshift

Yup
You could use a hose if you want

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slickshift

I know what you mean...it's a "Thing" now...and it bugs me too
People seem to be jumping on this almost truth, swinging it around bapping people upside the head with it, and basically using it as reasoning and excuses all over the place

Oil coatings are not Mold Magnets and Mold Farms

Technically....in a mold/mildew rich environment, if you put a piece of wood with latex on it next to one with oil on it, it's true the one with oil is more likely to get mold and mildew
Technically it's true the less solvents, the more inherent m/m resistance
Realistically, the m/m rich environment is the issue, not the coating

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

boman47k

I can't argue this with you. But Slick, you seem to be contradicting yourself.

gideond

I think he's trying to say that Oil is more susceptible to M/M but not by a very large degree. It's a largely overblown issue.

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capital city

I say tell the Ho whatever you have to to get the switch to latex unless its a solid stain your staying with. As far as paint goes, no oil base out there matches up to the top brands latex (duration, etc) Personally I dont understand why anyone would use a solid stain, as it looks like paint from the road and generally doesnt have more then a 10 year warranty, when the best paint will often carry 30, 50year or a lifetime warranty. Charlie

gideond

Personally I don't see why anyone in their right mind thinks they'll actually be able to cash in on a warranty on any paint regardless of the length of that warranty or the brand in question. I've seen it happen too many times with the cheaper brands and the homeowner always gets screwed because the paint company WILL find a way to blame it on anything but the paint. If by some chance they do honor the warranty, that's when you'll find out it's pro-rated and you won't get nearly what you think you should out of it.

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capital city

Just because I quoted the warranties does not mean I believe they will last that long. However you can use that as a tool to measure products against each other. If 1 product claims 10 years and another says 40 years I would think in most cases the 40 year product will outlast the 10. That is what I meant, not go with Duration and never think about painting again because it will last for eternity. And besides all that, all the warranty covers is material and as we all know the cost for these paint jobs is the labor. Charlie

slickshift

That is exactly what I am saying

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

slickshift

Warranties are generally established by the marketing departments these days

It's been a common tool of the poor quality manufacturer to jack up the warranty to help sell a poor quality product

Face facts, most manufacturing defects show up rather quickly

SW, then BM, both have upped their warranties not because their product has improved, but (they felt they had to) to compete in marketing

These days, I don't feel warranties can be used to judge product quality by any stretch

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

capital city

I understand this to a degree, Sw changed the warranty on 850 caulk from 35 to 45 years overnight and it still doesnt have silicone but you cant say that Duration will not last longer then Super paint, A 100, or Woodscapes which all have a lower warranty. The amount of years means nothing to me, but you have to admit that generally the best paints we use also have the longest "warranty" right. Just like when I bought my last set of tires they said 80000 miles, Ive got 50000 on them now and they are just about bare, but I bet they lasted longet then the 30000 mile tires they had. Charlie

gideond

It all depends on the situation as to which product will last longer. There are some situations where a solid stain will be looking good 10 years later and Duration in the same situation will have failed and peeled. Always use good quality products but choose a specific type of product based on the job at hand.

As for the original poster situation, either should work. Paint would be my first choice over a solid stain in this case, but if the homeowner wants stain, give them stain.

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davidanbess

Slickshift, the mold and mildew went down a treat guy was very impressed.
now the client has stayed with the oil based solid stain, my question what is the best and preffered to use.

Regards D/B

slickshift

Thanks for the update

Cabot and Ben Moore are very good
Sikkens does have an edge over them though
That Rubol stuff (Sikkens Rubol Siding) is top notch

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr