Pool House Dilemma, Please Help

outsidethelines

Okay, so I’m painting the interior of a 100 year old pool house that houses a built-in pool. It mostly consists of columns and windows and the columns (like the window frames) are wood. When the pool is heated over night, it creates a lot of humidity that collects on these surfaces. However, it does appear to dry as the day progresses. So, I need a paint that can hold up to that kind of regular moisture exposure. Please understand, I am not painting the pool, only the building that houses it. Most people seem to be getting that confused. I went to BM and asked them for the best product for the job, and they recommended the BM Impervo Low Lustre waterborne product. Then when I went to purchase it on a later date, I was told that the color (chosen by the designer) could not be mixed using that product because they did not make the right base for it (too dark). So, without even asking me, he chose to make up the Iron Clad for me which is an oil base satin (used for metal). I said “are you sure that is ok for wood?” He said “yes, many contactors use it because it is good for bathrooms.” I was skeptical, but decided to trust him since I have known him for a number of years. However, I was very disappointed in the way it looks (too shiny) and I'm not sure about oil to begin with. So, I stopped my guy from painting on any more and am in search of a new solution. Unfortunately, some of the Iron clad was mixed into the primer as a tint, so it is too late to switch back to waterborne unless I prime again. Any suggestions?!!!!

regal

go to a sherwin williams store and ask them for a contact number of there regional industrial/ marine rep for that stores area. not there general regional rep. & dont even get into your situation with the store manager.sherwin industrial and regular stores are for the most part seperate. Once you make contact explain the situation and your desire to use a high end product. They have coatings for most anything and are a giant in marine industrial coatings, but the retail stores dont really get into that stuff but they will ship to a store for you. good luck and let me know how you make out.

slickshift

Personally, I think you should throw a moisture meter on that wood to find out exactly what we are dealing with for moisture in there
Oil could be a very, very, bad idea
Or it could be very effective

Another question would be, it's already primed?
What type of primer?

PS I'd suggest having the primer tinted next time rather than putting topcoat in to "tint" it..the Paint Store will do it n/c

Iron Clad is fine for wood, and is self priming
Not that I'd skip the priming...it's just that the fact that it is self priming means it's more adhering in tough environments

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outsidethelines

We waited a few days after covering the pool to start priming and we had some 80 degree days in that time. So, hopefully we are ok in that regard. Oh, also there was almost no exposed wood. Just cracks in the last coat of old paint. Not sure why. The primer is the Zinnzer (spelling?) 2 hr. oil base. I did have the primer tinted by the paint store, but we ran out part way through. Unfortunately, it is really difficult to see which surfaces received the store tinted primer and which the one with the Iron Clad added.

Soooo, basically if the Iron Clad is truly ok, then I guess it is just a matter of whether or not the designer will except the sheen. Perhaps we can use the oil on the trim only. But, then what would I use on the columns? I am more concerned with those being too shiny. I think it would spoil the classic look.

I would like to show a pic, but don't know how to put it on here. It is pretty cool to see.

outsidethelines

I forgot to mention that the pool house is well ventilated.

regal

I used to live in millbrae but my family moved in 1977 to massachusetts. My cousin has a company in the bay area, the company is named Piper Painting, have you ever heard of it?

slickshift

Hmmm...well the Satin Impervo and the Low Lustre Iron Clad are pretty close
I'd say the Low Lustre Iron Clad is duller than Satin Impervo
-But there is an Impervo who's can looks like the Iron Clad cans...it can get confusing...it might even be Iron Clad Impervo I can't remember

But I really thought the low lustre stuff was duller

If you originally spec'd latex/waterborne those could be different also

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outsidethelines

"I used to live in millbrae but my family moved in 1977 to massachusetts. My cousin has a company in the bay area, the company is named Piper Painting, have you ever heard of it?"

I don't think so, but I'll check the phone book.

outsidethelines

slickshiftHmmm...well the Satin Impervo and the Low Lustre Iron Clad are pretty close
I'd say the Low Lustre Iron Clad is duller than Satin Impervo
-But there is an Impervo who's can looks like the Iron Clad cans...it can get confusing...it might even be Iron Clad Impervo I can't remember

But I really thought the low lustre stuff was duller

If you originally spec'd latex/waterborne those could be different also
There is an oil base impervo as well as the waterborne. Perhaps that is what you are thinking of.

outsidethelines

Sorry slickshift,
I did not cut and paste that very well. But, if you read to the end you can see what I wrote. I'm still learning how to use this site. Oh well.

Wolverine-Eric

Hi,

I have been involved in a few hundred projects of this nature. Many times, we get the call after someone else has come in and tried to use a 'residential type' product.

When coating the inside of a 'pool house' that encloses a heated swimming pool, the coating used MUST be strong enough to actually contain pool water. In other words, you need an immersion grade coating to handle the hot Cl- (Chlorine) vapor. Keep in mind, even if the water evaporates during the day, Cl- salts will be left on the surface of the coating. Each time the humidity in the 'house' is elevated the salts will re-wet and can form concentrations of Cl- that are actually higher than what is in the pool!

I would suggest a 100% solids cycloaliphatic epoxy system to rpotect the structure. In a few years (or they could spend the money now if they wanted to), it may need to be topcoated with a 100% solids polyaspartic or polyurethane to minimize yellowing (depending on the color). If you do the urethane now, you'll need to stop the heating cycle until the urethane cures or you'll get water spotting. Also, the 100% solids epoxy needs to be moisture insensitive and resistant to blush at high humidity! Oh, by the way, I'm just guessing that since it is a 100 year old structure that there is no structural steel that needs to be protected with an anti-corrosive primer...

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outsidethelines

Nope, just wood and some stucco at the back end. I was actually concerned about what you just described and you are the first person who has validated that concern. We cleaned every inch of the surfaces we are painting with TSP, and I am hoping that that was enough to properly prepare the surfaces for the prime coat. But, now I am confused about how the Cl levels affect the surface of the new paint. Will it crack again as the previous paint job did? If I was to proceed with the oil base products mentioned, how long would you say it would last? I would feel better to know what I am talking about when I present this info to the GC and the homeowner.