painting over old stucco - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

priceless · 07-16-2006, 12:24 AM

I'm wondering what the fastest way is to paint over old stucco. Also the best paint to use.

Jonesey · 07-16-2006, 09:21 AM

Are you talking about real stucco or fake stucco? As a general rule of thumb, all concrete products need to be cleaned, etched, block-filled, painted 2x with HQ Acrylic Finish, low-sheen or semi-gloss preferred.

Some of the newer forms of stucco just need to be cleaned very well. They tend to catch dirt.

System for previously painted stucco is:

Wash with bleach
Wash with tsp
Rinse
Scrape
Patch
Spot-prime with Block-fill
2 coats Finish

AAPaint · 07-16-2006, 11:00 AM

Jonesey gives good advice. For products, I'd recommend Loxon or Superpaint for stucco. I have used both with good success here in stucco land (Florida)...both can be bought at Sherwin Williams.

DaveH · 07-16-2006, 12:34 PM

With either kind of stucco be it E.I.F.S. or hard coat stucco I would recomend elastomeric paint. It has a rubber consistency and will prevent cracks from showing thru as well as give you a very good water repellent finish. Elastomeric can be rolled on or sprayed. Spray applications are better because it is very thick and tougher to spread than regular paints. Before trying one of these finishes though either consult a pro or have a pro apply it because it can be screwed up very easily.

priceless · 07-16-2006, 01:15 PM

How can you screw up the application of Elastomeric when applying it to stucco.

Jonesey · 07-16-2006, 11:21 PM

You can screw up anything if you try hard enough, Priceless. Some people don't have to try at all. I do it all the time.

Tom Rohland · 07-17-2006, 04:40 AM

I would also recommend an elastomeric product for stucco especially if there are numerous exposed settlement cracks. Just make sure you purchase a top of the line commercial grade.

It should be applied according to the manufacturers instructions for best results. That includes 2-3 coats for a total dry film thickness of between 20-25 mils. The goal is to product a thick film that is pin hole FREE.

Costly at first but will payoff in the long run.

Tom Rohland, Jr.
Ranger Painting & Pressure Cleaning, Inc.
Lake Mary, Florida

PS DO NOT THIN

DaveH · 07-17-2006, 05:06 AM

Priceless in response to your question of how can it be screwed up..
If you stop prior to reaching a corner and you get a dry edge. When you go back and start again you will end up with a cold joint that is very visable. This product has such a high build up rate that you must keep moving on an elevation once you get started. A novice would not know this...

Tom Rohland · 07-17-2006, 07:19 AM

Correction to my last post.

Spelling error.

Should read as follows:

The goal is to produce a thick film that is pinhole FREE.

I'll also add:

Pinholing appears when very small air pockets, or bubbles develop during elastomeric application. As the surface dries these bubbles work their way out leaving pinholes. Left unchecked, pinholes fill up with water which can penetrate the coating and cause "ballooning" of the coating. Two coats will usually eliminate this problem.

In my opinion brush and roll is superior to spray application. Stucco surfaces have small cracks and crevices that only brush and roll application can effectively fill and cover.

With spray application the coating tends to just lay on the surface. It is also difficult to get adequate millage with spray application because it must be sprayed so heavily it will tend to sag and run.

Hope this helps.

Tom Rohland, Jr.
Ranger Painting & Pressure Cleaning, Inc.
Lake Mary, Florida

SgtBaldy · 07-17-2006, 01:07 PM

My vote is on elastomeric as well. Spray and backroll on textured stucco. Spray only on smooth.