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11-21-2005, 09:05 AM
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#1
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Custom Builder
Trade:
From dirt to ridge vent
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South Central Illinois
Posts: 4,405
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Painting over the mold
We have spots of mold on a wall, I was thinking of just priming over without removal, however I don't want the mold to bleed through later. It's nut much mold, just spots.
Any input?
Bob
__________________
Bob
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11-21-2005, 09:17 AM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,529
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The stuff is alive. I've had a few painters say they could cover it but it always came back.
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11-21-2005, 09:51 AM
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#3
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Member
Trade:
Architectural coatings
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orlando Fl.
Posts: 37
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Best to treat/kill it then prime it and add M1 addative to your topcoat.
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11-21-2005, 09:57 AM
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#4
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Custom Builder
Trade:
From dirt to ridge vent
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South Central Illinois
Posts: 4,405
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Killed it already.
Bob
__________________
Bob
Last edited by Glasshousebltr; 11-21-2005 at 10:32 AM.
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11-21-2005, 11:35 AM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,529
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I've never had luck treating the surface. I've found plenty of mold on the back side of the drywall alive and well after treating the front. I don't even try anymore. I just cut it out, bleach the studs, and replace it. I usually don't get spots of mold but sections of mold and there is usually some reason. (Like water). My experience is in a semi-arid climate and I may be missing something in the equations.
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11-21-2005, 11:23 PM
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#6
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Member
Trade:
restorations
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 40
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Kill the mold/mildew with one part bleach to 4 parts water mixture. Clean surface with a good cleaner like "prep rite" from Sherwin-Williams. Apply a high end stain sealer/primer and paint.
Bret
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11-22-2005, 01:35 PM
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#7
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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If it's dead then BIN it, I use it all the time to seal in dead mold/mildew that won't scrape off
Spots I'll use the rattle can BIN, in fact I don't leave home w/o it
But the mold/mildew must be dead, dead, dead.
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11-23-2005, 03:54 PM
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#8
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Painting Contractor
Trade:
Painting Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,176
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Don't forget the mildewcide in your topcoat either. Is this a particularly moist room? If you don't do something to prevent it from coming back, I'm sure you know, it will.
__________________
Just because some of us can read and write and do a little math, that doesn't mean we deserve to conquer the Universe. Kurt Vonnegut, (1922 - 2007) from the Novel 'Hocus Pocus'
The NAPP
Milwaukee Painting Contractor
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11-23-2005, 09:40 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,376
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Has anyone tried chlorine dioxide? A GC asked me if I did it and it was a new one on me. He said that they tent the house but a little Googling found topicals too. I disassociate myself from the stuff entirely. A clause from my contract reads,"The Contractor can not and will not be held responsible or liable for the presence of any fungi, algae, lichens, slime, mold, bacteria, wet or dry rot and any byproducts of these organisms however produced that may or may not be present now or at any time in the unforeseeable future.".
Time to clear out and call in the pros.
Next time you are renewing your ins., ask them about it. When you see how it hikes your premiums you will comprehend why it is a stand alone business.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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11-24-2005, 03:11 AM
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#10
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Member
Trade:
Architectural coatings
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orlando Fl.
Posts: 37
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I agree, just one look at myleakyhome.com will scare the **** out of a legit painter. Fl. is a step away from mandatory inspections and regulation of paint/coating film thickness. I use a sealer/primer for exterior that goes on blue and fades to clear after 3 days, leaves no question as to coverage and protection.
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