lornmastro

Need to paint some existing kitchen cabinets and plan to
1. Clean with TSP (but some of them are really greasy would ammonia help cut the grease better?)
2.Sand with 180 grit
3.wipe off with brush/tack cloth
4. Prime with BIN or Gripper or XIM400(never used this). which one would you use.
5.sand lightly with 180 grit
6. Wipe off with brush/tack cloth
7.Paint with SW pro classic waterborne or Impervo waterborne( cabinets are going to be painted white)using low nap roller and tip it off using a soft tip brush.(any suggestions on a soft tip brush?)
8.sand again with 180 grit and wipe off with tack cloth
9. apply top coat using low nap roller/tip it off
10. Pack up and GO HOME!!


Let me know if you see anything that you would disagree with.
Anyhow my questions are BIN/Gripper or XIM400? Would the BIN provide better coverage than the Gripper?? would the gripper adhere better to the cabinets?? Should I use Bin on stained cabinets not poly and Gripper on cabinet that are polyed??And what kind of primer is XIM400??
What soft tip brushes would you recommend to use after rolling the cabinets??
Thanks so much for your help!!

neolitic

I used the Pro Classic egg shell over shellac primer.
All coats with a foam roller.
On a room of bookcase/cabinets.
Have to say I've never been more pleased!
At least by paint

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slickshift

Don't use the TSP if priming with BIN, use an ammonia based product or ammonia water mix

Other than that...

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

DeanV

I like challenger for cleaning kitchen cabinets. I would not sand BIN with 180, it sands VERY easily and it is easy to burn through the edges. If you use BIN, I would do at least 2 coats prior to sanding. I do not consider BIN to have great hiding power, but it does seal great and adheres very well. I would not use Gripper or any other acrylic primer, even if they adhere well enough, they do not block out any bleed through from the cabinets and in kitchens even oak seems to bleed. XIM is a great primer, drys fast though. I would probably prime them with XIM or Coverstain (better hiding power). When you say tack the cabinets, I am assuming you do not mean with an actual tack cloth, just a water damp rag, right?

PlainPainter

XIM and BIN are great products - however they're engineered to be overkill for certain situations, if you're into overkill then go ahead. My procudure was to sand the ***** of the doors with like 60-80 grit - even scooping out grease with the corner of the sandpaper - and then rubbed 'em down with lacquer thinner - then sprayed with coverstain - like twice. Came out great - very labor intensive.

Dave Mac

I like to use a oil base slow dry 24 hr primer, i feel the longer it takes to dry the better it adhears to the surface.

daArch

You never mentioned what's on them now.

I like non-sudsy ammonina regardless of what going on top. TSP is to hard to rinse and phosphates ain't Earth friendly anyway.

Does California still make Larcoloid? A urethane based oil. If so, has it been castrated with the VOC laws? Ten years ago it was EXCEPTIONALLY durable and would be perfect for the cabinets.

Although waterborne Satin Impervo is a great looking paint, like all waterbornes, it takes soooo looong to cure. Just make sure the customer realizes they can't abuse the surface for a few weeks, or longer.

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DeanV

You could try Cabinet Coat for the top coat. It as a WB acrylic-urethane paint. It gets hard fast, not sure what the full cure time is, but I would guess less than WB Impervo. It flows extremely well.

jackrabbit5

I would opt for the ammonia for cleaning the cabinets followed by sanding with 220 grit. BIN is a great product but tends to dry almost too quickly for doing brush work, especially if your doors are raised panel. I would take the doors off and spray them, then all you have to do by brush and/or roller is the face frames and ends. No hinges in the way. Don't use a tack rag prior to using the waterborne just a water dampened rag. For between coat sanding I prefer 320 grit.

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lornmastro

Thanks all for the advice..you are the best. The cabinets are old cabinets with stain and glossy poly. I'm thinking the Xim400 would be the best because of the high sheen. Am I on the right track?

lornmastro

also what is a good soft tip brush??

DeanV

For the primer, I think the XIM will be good, it does dry fast so be prepared for that. If you are going to do the roll and tip off thing, I would start on the back side just to make sure it does not set up too fast on you. You could always add extended to it. For oil, the softest oil brush I have used is the Corona Chicago Loop ox-hair brush. For brushing trim, I have been liking the corona sabre brush lately.

regal

I have used SW " Bonding Primer " on lots of different surfaces with good luck, its water based, and claims are that it bonds to lots of different surfaces. I even used it as a base coat on formica prior to spraying epoxy on top, worked great. I believe it is SW's answer to Zinnser 123, but it is a bit different. I was told SW and Zinnser had a spat and SW decided to make their own versions.

Da Vinci

60-80 grit??!Are you kidding me? You adding your own pores to the wood?

Bay Area Cabinet Painters

Tommy Boy

Water based equivalent to XIM 400 is XIM UMA. Dries slower but sticks just as well. You can use epoxies, urethanes, enamels, oil-alkyds over it even though it is water based

birdogron

Hey most the guys here know what they are talking about! What a pleasant surprise. If you are going to use pro-classic and haven't used it much. It flows out very nice, or it will hang like crazy. Air assisted airless may be the best with a 6-12. Spray the doors, brush frames, make money. SWP also makes a bonding primer I have used with a lot of success over the past few years. If you are painting over lacquered cabinets, lacquer undercoater with two top coats of maclac pigmented lacquer is a tough finish to beat. Dries quick. Easy to fix screw ups. Mac Lac can put all their products in spray cans for easy touchups. Charge more for this procedure. Lacquer undercoater is able to adhere to areas where others may not due to the hot solvents, but clean like the guys before me have said. Good luck.