navco1390

what primer is the best to use for results when priming brown kitchen cabinets? Also what Sherwin paint would you recommend.

Thanks

daArch

What's on them now? Brown is a color, not an emulsion

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slickshift

BIN or other pigmented shellac is the best for dark and questionable or unknown condition stained/poly'd cabs
But however, over-kill for some lighter, and in good shape or painted cabs
Premium oil-based primer would be OK for those
If they are brown latex painted, no primer is needed (per say), but if getting painted a lighter color or with enamel I would consider it

I would recommend an enamel
Waterborne is fine (as opposed to oil)
I use Ben Moore's Impervo, but I understand from some trusted contractors that SW's Pro Classic is just as good

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

gideond

Are the cabinets painted or stained brown? Or are they a pressed wood cabinet with a brown paper finish? If they are any sort of pressed wood, do not use BIN. They'll most likely fall apart or at the very least the paper finish will bubble.

slickshift

Actually, have found the exact opposite to be true
With an unknown or cheesy laminate, including the paper stuff, BIN does better than latex or oil in the lifting/bubble area

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Richard

The color doesn't matter

Type of wood?
What coating is on the cabinets now?

These will help us give you better answers

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gideond

That's odd. Everyone I've seen use BIN on laminated cabinets has them come apart in sheets. Maybe there is a difference in the adhesive used to apply the paper facing.

ibsocal

Increda coat by SW for cabinets water based epoxy like quality.

slickshift

That is odd
I've even used it on crappy old KD furniture (old Sauder-type put-together stuff that was pretty beat up)
Not that there is a big market for that...lol
You do have to be careful and not gloob it on though

Latex def. lifts that stuff (most of the time)
Oil can work, but takes a little too long to dry and can lift
I have found a light coat of BIN is best

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

gideond

I'll try it the next time I know a floor covering display apart. They're all pressed wood anyway. I've never had to use it in such a way before so I'm going by what those who have used it this way have told me. Of course I have no idea if they globbed it on.

Tmrrptr

IB,

would you use hvlp or airless w that increda coat?
r

ronnronn

Just did a house with laminate wood cabinets, 2 or 3 coats of paints on top of cabinets, roach poop and grease all over the place.

We used vinegar to clean (great for grease), cleaned so more. Scraped down the nicks, bumps and some filling. Sprayed Kilz for primer and then sprayed SW Pro classic (self leveling).

This was for a rental rehab. If it was going to be higher quality we would have done extra sanding and filling.

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We Fix Houses

Ronnronn,

What kind of spray rig did you use ?

ronnronn

Used a Magnum DX airless sprayer by Graco.

Small enough to fit in my convertible Corvette (don't ask! )

Kilz oil based.
The Sherwin Williams Pro Classic is Acrylic. (did not have the proper tip but it worked just fine without thinning).

This was a rental rehab so if you get close you can still see minor imperfections in places not fixed with bondo, wood putty etc. SW paint did well on covering a lot of nicks and bumps in flat surfaces. Of course, this is much better quality than the competition rentals (at least in this area). Oklahoma good 3/1.5 rental house at $80K. Tile Kitchen and Baths. Refinished hardwood floors.

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THINKPAINTING

When in doubt BIN it out..............we use BIN on that type of cabinet because it will not lift the paper or cardboard.........simular to using BIN on sheetrock that has paper exsposed before we patch with easysand..

I have no problem with KILZ sands great.

Plushpaint

Ronnronn
How did you deal with the hinges, did you take the doors off or do them hanging on the cabinets? Can I also ask if it was a catalysed lacquer finish previously, I have found BIN to scratch off some factory finished cabinet doors

ronnronn

Plush,

This house was in bad condition. The cabinets had at least 2 coats of paint (previous laminate, then blue paint, then mustard paint) and it probably was cheap paint (they painted over everything with mustard - hinges and all). The laminate would have been nice if they left it alone ha. It then was covered with grease and roach poop. We could not save the hinges and much cheaper to go with new. We were able to save the handles with a quick scrub and black lacquer spray paint.
To save time, I just sprayed the entire kitchen with Kilz (cabinets, walls, ceiling, inside cabinet, cabinet doors, shelves, drawers, etc). I did not take the doors off the old hinges. Then after the Kilz, I took off the doors and hinges and did some scraping. The Kilz did well after letting it cure. I then sprayed the doors, drawers and cabinets with Sherwin Williams Pro Classic (no masking since walls would be painted different color). Don't put the Pro Classic on think at all as it will run like any other paint. Pro Classic is pretty forgiving.
Hindsight, the previous paint was on so thick and hard that it was difficult to get the hinges off (paint in the screw head). I should have tested taking them off. But then again, I was able to do both sides very quickly and walk out. I did the entire house with Kilz (horrible pet stains/smells, roach poop, human waste??? We think they were peeing in the corner of a room). I literally 100% bleached the floors and walls 5 days in a row. Misc cleaners sprayed on such as urine removal, cleaners, some vinegar in areas. Charcoal and baking soda for a few days after bleach dried. It got rid of the smell, the killz sealed anything in the walls and we were able to save the wood oak floors!

The house doesn't look to bad in the pictures until you were there... Stepping onto the carpet was very interesting with a squashy feel. The smell almost knocked you out! The 1st day of bleaching killed the human smell only to be whacked with urine smell.

ronnronn

Just now finishing up this house. We had to go darker stain for the floors due to the pet stains but it is actualy turning out well.

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ronnronn

More pics.

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Faron79

IMO...
BIN can rectify a number of sins!! I would still LIGHTLY sand a real glossy &/or crappy existing finish though.
For the paint...have many of you used Cabinet-Coat from Insl-x, or ACE's new Cabinet, Door & Trim paint??
* They DO need many hours (preferably next day) between coats for leveling, but settle -out beautifully smooth!
* ACE's is avail. in all tint-bases.
* CC has a "pastel-shades" tint-base, White, & an Almond.
* Insl-x retails for ~ $35-$40/gal, and ACE for $25-$30/gal.

Faron