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Old 04-25-2007, 10:35 AM   #1
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Painting Aluminum Siding

A customer would like there aluminum siding painted. I stopped over to give the estimate and noticed the siding has chaulk residue on the surface. What would be the best option to remove the chaulk? I was thinking power wash w/TSP?

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Old 04-25-2007, 10:46 AM   #2
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Blow it up, figure about a 1/4 stick of dynamite per 50 foot wall, 1/2 for two stories.
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Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:50 AM   #3
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Thanks for your quick insightful reply.
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:25 AM   #4
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wash down good with tsp, water, and a good stiff brush. Good to go!
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:26 AM   #5
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Heh, no really... should be fine with what you described.
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Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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Old 04-25-2007, 12:05 PM   #6
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Thanks guys I will go with the suggestions.
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Old 04-25-2007, 04:32 PM   #7
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I was always told not to use t.s.p as it leaves a film which reduces paint adhesion ,,,anyone heard this also ? was told to use a basic house washing chemical ,feedback please?
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Old 04-25-2007, 05:11 PM   #8
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I was always told not to use t.s.p as it leaves a film which reduces paint adhesion ,,,anyone heard this also ? was told to use a basic house washing chemical ,feedback please?


Yes... I have heard the same from professionals that had that issue with TSP... I never use TSP...

You will have to "Hand Wash" the house.... just power washing will not do...

Just look at how you wash your vehicle... you cant just use the power wash wand to wash it... it looks clean but rub your hand over it after it dries... still has that dirt residue on it... you have to "hand wash" to get a true cleaning... same thing with aluminum siding... use any house/siding cleaner and you will be fine.... take the time to do it right... thats called "cheap insurance"....

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Old 04-25-2007, 05:41 PM   #9
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Yes... I have heard the same from professionals that had that issue with TSP... I never use TSP...

You will have to "Hand Wash" the house.... just power washing will not do...

Just look at how you wash your vehicle... you cant just use the power wash wand to wash it... it looks clean but rub your hand over it after it dries... still has that dirt residue on it... you have to "hand wash" to get a true cleaning... same thing with aluminum siding... use any house/siding cleaner and you will be fine.... take the time to do it right... thats called "cheap insurance"....

Joe
I agree I have done few in the last few years, yes a bucket of water with a little TSP-PF is what I have use. No film no problems, no call backs.

So you would have to figue your cleaning time wisely as not to lose money on cleaning time!
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:59 PM   #10
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Just add EB to the paint and your good to go
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:44 PM   #11
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all this fuss about cleaners....I'm still curious to see what paint your using
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Larman View Post
A customer would like there aluminum siding painted. I stopped over to give the estimate and noticed the siding has chaulk residue on the surface. What would be the best option to remove the chaulk? I was thinking power wash w/TSP?
Have painted many aluminum siding house over the years. Latex primer and finish. If aluminum is in good shape 2 cts of latex 100% acrylic.

Will outlast a exterior wood job by years, EB emulsa bond is a paint additive to bond paint to chaulky surfaces.

Wash down with good cleaner.
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:23 PM   #13
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I like to palm sand the whole house and then just rinse it off... Great adhesion with no primer needed.
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:49 AM   #14
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Pressure wash, no manual scrubbing. Cut your first coat of paint 10% with Flood Emulsa Bond. Apply second coat of paint uncut. I have used this sysem many times with amazing results.

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Old 04-27-2007, 05:57 AM   #15
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On my own house, I just powerwashed the chalk off and painted. No problems at all.
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:10 PM   #16
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My dad started doing them 45yrs ago, I have done them for 17yrs, and I guarantee them for life against normal weather conditions. They are by far my favorite job to do. We wash them with Spick-n-Span top to bottom (sometimes we powerwash, but not always) Two coats of a satin acrylic...never been called back to repair one.
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:16 PM   #17
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My dad started doing them 45yrs ago, I have done them for 17yrs, and I guarantee them for life against normal weather conditions. They are by far my favorite job to do. We wash them with Spick-n-Span top to bottom (sometimes we powerwash, but not always) Two coats of a satin acrylic...never been called back to repair one.
where are you from? just curious where it's common to paint aluminum siding and for 17 years nonetheless....No one even has aluminum siding up here anymore
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:45 PM   #18
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Surface pH is an important consideration when applying paint or stain. TSP is an alkaline agent, as is any product containing phospates. Any agent that has a slippery feel will be a base or akaline. Something to consider, is that deck strippers are alkaline. That is why deck brightners are used. Not only do they restore wood colour, but it adjusts pH to neutral, so the stain will adhere.

A light vinegar solution will neutalize the TSP. It seems that only in extreme cases would you need to go through the trouble of removing chalk residue from the siding.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:05 PM   #19
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Surface pH is an important consideration when applying paint or stain. TSP is an alkaline agent, as is any product containing phospates. Any agent that has a slippery feel will be a base or akaline. Something to consider, is that deck strippers are alkaline. That is why deck brighteners are used. Not only do they restore wood colour, but it adjusts pH to neutral, so the stain will adhere.

A light vinegar solution will neutalize the TSP. It seems that only in extreme cases would you need to go through the trouble of removing chalk residue from the siding.

I think the whole deck PH issue is very theoretical.I don't think any deck guys are really testing the PH of the aggregate?I know alot about PH balancing, and it's not possible to achieve a neutral PH by these methods, because the PH values for different aggregates vary.Simply thinking that if you use an alkaline product and then an acidic product to neutralize the alkalinity is'nt how it works.You have to know the PH value of the medium to effectively alter the PH.Say the aggregate gets alot of rain(acidic) the PH value of the medium/aggregate may very well be very acidic to begin with, then you apply a stripper, that might bring the PH to 7(neutral), but then when you apply a brightener (acidic) your more than likely raising the value above neutral,posibly in the 12-14 realm depending on the brightener,furthermore, tap waters value varies, here we are slightly acidic, on the west coast they are very alkaline.I'll do an experiment the next wood resto I do.Don't ask me how I know this stuff, because I can't legally tell you

As for aluminum siding, I would just straight Pwash the chalk off making sure that you don't break the finish, and coat it with two coats of a low-lusture/satin/flat or any type of product that indicates that is appropreate for aluminum.I have a question though?If the HO wants a high gloss or soft gloss finish, could this be done using a full coat of primer?
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