Need paint help - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

silvertree · 01-18-2009, 11:38 PM

I was finishing a kitchen Friday, painted maple. The last panel I put in was solid maple white paint. When I screwed it on (from inside the cabinet) the board cracked. I glued it and clamped and its good. Problem is its a catalyzed paint. I brushed some on with no catalyst, used wet dry paper 400 grit and the crack is smooth. Looks good. Now I need to paint the whole slab, 12" X 29.5".
Can I use a hard foam mini roller to get a spray like finish? I will not be using the catalyst because I'm not in a hurry.
I have a pint of paint, so that's plenty to do this job.
I don't know how to spray paint. At least not professionally.
Also this paint cleans up with acetone, so its pretty forgiving.

It would take 4 weeks to get a new end panel.

Static Design · 01-18-2009, 11:47 PM

The foam brush will get it similar but you can still tell the difference between the pieces if they butt up to each other. I have an air brush and a small paint gun that I can do touch ups and fade the new paint into the existing for a near perfect match.

**ProWallGuy** · 01-18-2009, 11:50 PM

If you can isolate the panel, or mask off all around it, these little things work great:

Workaholic · 01-18-2009, 11:59 PM

I have had good results with the item that PWG posted as well.
I also agree that the foam roller will work better than a brush but next to a spray finish it will be noticed.
Do you have access to a hvlp sprayer?

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 12:05 AM

I have that thing, I thought they only shot stain. I may have to thin the paint, but its pretty runny already.
Can I skip the catalyst?
I own an HVLP sprayer, but its only a panel side. The panel does not butt up to anything either, it "floats" on the side of the box.
I took the panel with me, and the customer is not too fussy. They were about some things, but I think since this is a base cabinet (cookbook cabinet) and it isn't at eye level I could probably make them happy.

**ProWallGuy** · 01-19-2009, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvertree

Can I skip the catalyst?

Not sure. What is the exact make/model of your paint?

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 12:30 AM

Don't know, it came from my cabinet maker. They sent primer, catalyst and paint. The paint dries very fast, I think the catalyst is used at the factory.
Damn catalyst cap blew off and hit me in the nose, left a mark too. I was wearing my safety glasses when it happened. I would rather not use it.
But I have no information on the paint. No labels on the cans.

WisePainter · 01-19-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvertree

I was finishing a kitchen Friday, painted maple. The last panel I put in was solid maple white paint. When I screwed it on (from inside the cabinet) the board cracked. I glued it and clamped and its good. Problem is its a catalyzed paint. I brushed some on with no catalyst, used wet dry paper 400 grit and the crack is smooth. Looks good. Now I need to paint the whole slab, 12" X 29.5".
Can I use a hard foam mini roller to get a spray like finish? I will not be using the catalyst because I'm not in a hurry.
I have a pint of paint, so that's plenty to do this job.
I don't know how to spray paint. At least not professionally.
Also this paint cleans up with acetone, so its pretty forgiving.

It would take 4 weeks to get a new end panel.

If it were me I would apply the material with a 3" black foam throw away brush. Care must be taken when applying the material so the coverage is heavy enough to lay out, but not so heavy that it sags after you have left for the day (I really hate that!!).
This is where brush skills matter.
You should not spray it if you don't know how, any issues would make waiting 4 weeks for a new piece seem like the better idea in hindsight.
I have just finished some cabinets where the Darryl and Darryl helpers screwed right through the false fronts of every drawer attaching them to the boxes.
The GC had them come back and fix the problem...sort of, you can see all of the cracks and raised areas.

Seeing as thought the customer is easy going, think this one out before moving ahead.
Mistakes now are not an option.

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 09:10 AM

Thanks Wisepainter,
I brushed it last night. Light coat, it looks so good from 6 feet away you would think a pro did it. But I need it to look good from 2 feet away.
But it sure looks like a good start.
Foam brush? I have plenty of paint, its worth a try. I cleaned the piece with alcohol before I brushed last night. Surprisingly good for the first coat.
I'm going to post a finished product picture. Didn't take a before shot but the crack was 4" in from an edge and ran about 18".

Static Design · 01-19-2009, 10:07 AM

If you have plenty of paint and time to mess with it, lightly sand the brushed surface w/400grit, then roll a light coat of paint over the brushed surface, let it dry for manufacture specs, then sand with 1000grit to smooth surface (if you wet the sand paper it want clogged up as much), clean area, then take a car grade wax/rubbing compound to get the shine back on the surface (use a power buffer or your manly pythons).

This technique will smooth out the paint and make it look like sprayed surface, remember to lightly sand: to much and you will see color variation or wood again.

Bender · 01-19-2009, 03:21 PM

If you find that 1st coat is tacky or gummy feeling then you'll know you needed the catalyst.

WisePainter · 01-19-2009, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bender

If you find that 1st coat is tacky or gummy feeling then you'll know you needed the catalyst.

That almost happened to me.
The SW Manager called me up and politely asked that I return to the store and have my pre~catalyzed lacquer "catalyzed" before I begin spraying...if I didn't already start.
I about freaked.
I politely mentioned that I sure could use a new pair of painter whites, but I am pretty sure they didn't hear me.
I began thinking of the disaster that may have occurred and how I would properly and neatly correct the problem. The SW girl said that it would takes days for it to dry and finish looking terrible.
May I never have to face that problem in the future.

+1 for catalysts

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 04:52 PM

Foam brush didn't work, paint dries too fast and the brush pulled.
Sand and rollers next. Hard foam mini roller.

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bender

If you find that 1st coat is tacky or gummy feeling then you'll know you needed the catalyst.

I didn't see this until I tried without the catalyst. If you count my time, this will be an expensive panel.

WisePainter · 01-19-2009, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silvertree

I didn't see this until I tried without the catalyst. If you count my time, this will be an expensive panel.

Time to order the replacement?

silvertree · 01-19-2009, 07:57 PM

I gotta give it a try, Thursday is order day for cabinets, I think I will punish myself for a couple more days. I can appreciate the difference between a painter, and someone who paints.

You know, I worked for 2 years straight with a New England paint pro, old school. I still cleans my brushes (Wooster) the way he taught me. And if I work with anyone that doesn't take care of their paint brushes, I can't stand to watch. The biggest fight I ever had with my wife was when she stuck a brush in up to the wood. My brush. We still don't talk about it

Bender · 01-19-2009, 10:58 PM

catalyst (k

t

l-

st) A substance that starts or speeds up a chemical reaction while undergoing no permanent change itself.

Sorry dude, they sent the catalyst for a reason

WisePainter · 01-19-2009, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WisePainter

+1 for catalysts

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bender

catalyst (k

t

l-

st) A substance that starts or speeds up a chemical reaction while undergoing no permanent change itself.

Sorry dude, they sent the catalyst for a reason

Another +1 for catalysts.
Bondo smells really odd.

brushmasters · 04-16-2009, 07:56 AM

Great use of feedback on this board. We may have concerns about the paint hardening properly if it is a catalyzed paint. This job is long done but for future reference we are a local paint company that could stop by your job and talk it over with you. Look it up: Brush Masters, Plymouth, MN. We are also members of NARI-MN, try networking with Woody at meetings and we would be glad to discuss painting solutions with you.

Wolfgang · 04-16-2009, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brushmasters

Great use of feedback on this board. We may have concerns about the paint hardening properly if it is a catalyzed paint. This job is long done but for future reference we are a local paint company that could stop by your job and talk it over with you. Look it up: Brush Masters, Plymouth, MN. We are also members of NARI-MN, try networking with Woody at meetings and we would be glad to discuss painting solutions with you.

Be a great thing if you could stop by and help Silvertree out. He's always been about the most decent GC type to come into the paint section. I just had some customers of mine getting ready to sell their house and move to Mpls and have offered to refer Silvertree to them. Sometimes it pays to be nice....