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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: Painter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mn.
Posts: 168
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Lil Help
Like I have said in past posts Don't do a whole lot of Exteriors but lately have had a lot of calls and I dont want to turn work away. Have 2 duplexs that the University owns Cedar siding with stain, Very weathered and faded. They need it to match the new houses they built around it. So I was thinking Using Weather perfect oil from SW and then 2 coats of super paint.
So was just wondering what others would advise for the preping before I even put on the primer? Have some ideas just wondering the best way and most time efficient. Thanks for help... |
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#2 |
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Member
Trade: painting contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 93
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Re: Lil Help
Miller if I am on the same page with you it sounds as if there is nothing on the cedar as of now. If this is the case I would do what you have posted, with the only added thing being backbrushing (backrolling if you can) the oil primer into the cedar. I like doing this because it pushes primer into wood for a better job in my opinion. My guess is that you are spraying this if not then you will backbrush, backroll anyways. If you are spraying and add the backbrush step in just be aware that you will use more product so take that into account.
Gary |
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: Painter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mn.
Posts: 168
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Re: Lil Help
Yes we will be spraying. I figured the cedar would soak up a lot of the primer. It has some real old stain that is faded and really weathered. I was really wondering if I should worry about what stain that is left? Will I need to get it all off or will the primer cover it? Sorry if thats a dumb question just don't do a whole lot with exterior, so any help would be great.
Thanks, |
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#4 |
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Professional Painter
Trade: Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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Re: Lil Help
Every Exterior should be pressure washed prior to painting, just as a safeguard at minimum. Oil on cedar is a must. You absolutely MUST backbrush/roll.
If you don't backbrush or roll it will peel in 1 year or less(along with being considered a hack) I recommend BM Fresh Start (thinned out a bit) for the prime coat. The superpaint is a good choice for the finish. You could also go with Duration if you want a more durable/longer lasting option.
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Rich |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Painter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mn.
Posts: 168
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Re: Lil Help
Yea Power washing is a must and I do it on any and every exterior I have done. I was just more concerned with the stain, Should i worry about getting all of it off or is it ok to just power wash and then use the oil primer and then 2coats of super paint. The only reason I was considering the super paint was the price and the area it was in. The 2 buildings are basically just dorms for students out in the woods. I used duration on the last exterior and I love it. I usually recommend duration to most Ho. Thanks for the feed back this forum is great and helped me a lot to see other ways of doing jobs.
thanks, |
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#6 |
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Professional Painter
Trade: Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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Re: Lil Help
Depends on the condition. What was on it originally, semi transparent or solid stain? I would venture to say if it was semi-trans that oil based primer is fine followed by the latex topcoat. If it was a water based solid stain, I would prime with a latex primer/sealer followed by the latex topcoat. Latex over oil is fine. Oil over latex is not.
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Rich |
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