How To Get Caulk In A Real Tight Spot

ProWallGuy

I have to caulk a joint between a sink, and the backsplash. The sink is raised up maybe 1/2" - 3/4", and sits about 5/8" away from the backsplash.
A normal caulk gun/tube won't get back there. I tried buying a small, toothpaste style tube of caulk, still no luck.
Does anybody know of a tool with a small curved tip, or anything else, that will allow me to run a fine bead of silicone in a real hard to reach spot.
I will attach a pic with an arrow towards the joint I am trying to describe.

AAPaint

Have you thought of using a piping bag or bakers bag. You know, the bags they squeeze icing out of? You can make one out of a plastic ziplock by cutting the corner off.

ProWallGuy

I thought about it, but it needs to lay a nice, fine line. The area is just about too small for me to even slide my finger in there to smooth it out.

Eric K

Will a tube of DAP silicon work? The ones that you just squeeze out? As for the smoothing out part, try cutting the corner off an old credit card and using angled needle nose pilars to hold it. You will just have to clean off the corner of the card every couple inches.

ProWallGuy

I tried that too. The tip wasn't long enough to get down there, and the collar? of the tube would get in the way. I even tried to heat up the tip to bend it, but it didn't budge until the melting point.

ch0mpie

[QUOTE=ProWallGuy]
Does anybody know of a tool with a small curved tip, or anything else, that will allow me to run a fine bead of silicone in a real hard to reach spot.
QUOTE]

Finger and a rag is what I use.

DelW

You could always try a soda straw, maybe one that bends at the neck like they use at hospitals. You can get them at the grocery store. Just slip it over the end of the tube.

Del

Tom R

Pro, - - if you can't find it anywhere else, - - go to the 'fish store' and get some clear plastic tubing, - - cut of 8 or 10 inches, connect it to your 'tube-spout' and you'll be able to caulk ANYWHERE!!

Best bet is to buy it in several different diameters, - - in case your spout has already been cut when you decide you need the tubing.

Wish I could even remember the sizes I bought, - - I actually bought a few 50' rolls of it, - - that way whenever you need it you just cut some off. Probably 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".

This is how I do behind sinks all the time, - - also 'jacuzzis', and such, - - definitely the 'way-to-go'

Oh, yeah, - - and I do believe, though, - - if memory serves me right, - - I did get it at HD (maybe around hardware aisle or possibly near the sump pumps 'n plumbing stuff??)

Tom R

Oh, - - and you can also attach them 'tube-within-tube' to narrow them down if need be.

What I like to do in your 'sink application', - - is 'blue-tape' both the counter top and the sink-edge, - - leaving only about 1/16" to 1/8" in-between, - - then caulk, then 'wet-finger', then remove both tapes, then 'wet-finger' again. Perfect bead, - - no sloppy edges that can both attract dirt and possible even 'peel' later down the road.

Teetorbilt

Artists pallet knives can be bent into many configs. I'd stick with Tom's suggestion on the blue tape too, it cuts down on a lot of clean-up.

ch0mpie

I saw a "caulk smoothing tool" on tv just a minute ago. You get a bunch of stuff with it for "only 19.95". I forget the name but has tried it? It has different edges that allow you to leave different size beeds. Looks like it could get in a tight spot.

Scott Young

tom you beat me to the punch with the tube trick. i have used that several times.

slickshift

We have one of those stupid froo-froo sets of cheese knives rec'd as a gift that "she" won't let me huck, even though we never, ever use them
There's an incredibly stoopid looking hooked one that I'll bet would work

Check the closet with the fondue pots, bunt pans, and serving trays
You might have one too

DecksEtc

Not that I've ever tried it but maybe a syringe would get the caulk in there for you. Like I said, I've never tried it but my daughter's insulin syringes are pretty small at the end (without the needle) and I was thinking that might do the trick for you.

ProWallGuy

Actually Terry, I have alot of syringes on hand for the w/c, but they are too stiff to get back there.

TomR and those who suggested the tubing, I think this will be my remedy. I plan on going back Tuesday, and I'll post back on how it all works.

Thanks!!!

Mike Finley

Interesting responses, since we always dress caulk with a damp sponge doing what you are trying to do means no more than holding the caulk gun vertically and getting caulk near where you want it and then getting it in the exact spot with your finger, the sponge is going to form to that tight space and dress and clean all at the same time.

ProWallGuy

Mike, I hear ya, sounds like we're over-engineering a line of caulk. But this spot is so tight, and the bead needs to be very small, every way I could possibly think of doing it didn't work. The backsplash is too tall, and your average caulk tube/gun can't get closer than 1 1/2" away from the line. I tried to just slather it in there, and finger/wipe out the excess, but it was so tight, that it all would wash off, every time. And another problem is that you cant even see the line unless you lay your head down on the counter, and look sideways at it. but I really need to get it sealed, as you can see in the pics, the counter top was water-damaged, and we tracked it back to the half-ass caulk job I did before. This is where the water is getting in, so it needs to be a full-strength bead, not just rubbbed in for appearance sake.

Eric K

Why not just pull up the sink and caulk underneith the sink and just seal it that way? Problem solved

Mike Finley

I hear what you are saying, but I still use the same technique for the results you are looking for. Caulk doesn't have to form a "bead" to be effective, it only has to seal the two surfaces, and that can certainly be accomplished without a bead. That line of white caulk in picture #1 isn't forming a bead it is forming a cove which is what I do using a damp sponge (but the cove is way, way smaller and looks totally perfect compared to what is showing in that picture, doing it the way I am describing results in the end of the cove being maybe 1/32 or 1/64th wider than the sink edge, the coved edge of that white caulk looks like its 1/8 or 3/8 wide) Taking it to extreme I could just fill the entire gap with caulk then take a piece of card board and scrape out along the wall then cut a sponge in a sliver and get it to work. If the joint is too starved doing that, I would still do it and let whatever I could get to stay dry then do it a second time. Also what KBK is saying is effective, then the caulk is purely cosmetic.

Tom R

Oh, - - and did I mention that when it comes through the clear plastic tubing it'll 'FASCINATE' you like you were a '5-YEAR OLD' AGAIN??