Garage Floors

quality app

I just started a house that was flooded from katrena It is just over 8000 sq.ft. the bottom floor has about 900-1000 sq. that is like a guest area and about 2000 sq. is a inclosed three car garage. The drywall finishers primed the walls (sprayed and backrolled ) it has overspray and a little mud on the concrete, The h/o asked about painting the floors. any thoughts epoxie,oil floor enamel,stain? It is almost a driveway concrete finish maybe a little better.

LennyV-NHSNOLA

I've used the two-part epoxy garage floor paints in the past. Make sure the surface is cleaned and prepped properly... as with all painting. The downside is that the colors are limited with those products unless they've expanded the color schemes since the last time I did one a few years ago. BTW, I'm in Metairie.

donb1959

http://www.hcconcrete.com/product/shieldCrete.asp
This is what I use...looks great, wears like steel. Make SURE the floor is clean,AND dry, follow the direstions closely.

__________________
I fish therefore I am
http://www.shimmerz.biz

Teetorbilt

I used a DOT approved stain on a shop floor once, went with handicapped blue. Because it penetrates, the steel wheeled engine stands made white streaks but they quickly disappeared.

I have yet to find anything that truly resists tire stains. We have a lot of 'snowbirds' here and cars will often sit for over half a year, the oil used in tires seems to stain anything.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Paintpimp

If you use an epoxy, the primer and mud must be removed. The solvent is way to harsh, it will wrinkle if it isnt cleaned off. Muriatic acid etch so the concrete feels like 120 grit sandpaper. Use a solvent based epoxy (like SW's Tile Clad HS). Thin first coat by about 5-10 percent. Then apply second coat full strength. I have seen these floors last over 15 years.

Oh yeah, there cannot be any sealers already on the floor. These have to be removed, otherwise you just created a strippable floor finish.

profinish

I do it all the time as the drywall guys tend to make a mess it is a good selling point powerwash to remove all mud dirt,etc then use sherwin williams H&C concrete stain..Looks great and THE H/O WILL LOVE YOU
you will need to run the base again once dry.. I can get upto $300.00extra for this depending on the customer

AAPaint

I also recommend the stain many times, but the H&C epoxy is a great product for garages. If you do use the stain you won't be able to use anything else but a xylene based product again in the future.

For what it's worth, in my area we have a SW rep dedicated just to flooring applications. His job is solely specifying coatings for floors in any situation. One of the most important things to consider, according to him, (and I would have to agree) is profile. If the concrete is smooth or less than half a mil profile, you don't want to use a product that will end up with 7 mils of coating holding onto half a mil of profile. This should be one of your first criteria for deciding what type of product to use.

No matter what you use, if it has solvents in it, the paint and mud must go. Even water based products could fail over those. The solvent based ones will cause the paint to loosen up and loose adhesion, anything attached will do the same.

__________________
-AAPaint

AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.

Teetorbilt

AA, are you sure that you have that 1/2 mil. figure right? That's 0.0005", the wheel bearings in your truck are machined close to this. Your crankshaft to bearing tolerence is less.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

BMAN

If you like one coat of epoxy you will love two.