Garage Floor Epoxy

Michelangelo · 04-02-2007, 11:17 PM

I am wanting to start painting with Shield-Crete made by H&C which can be found at their website. Is anyone familiar with this product and how much I should charge per job. It's about 100 bucks a kit (retail price) and I get it for around 70 bucks. A kit does one car garage and a sales rep told me to do two coats. Also after the two coats a clear coat is put on for a glossy finish. I would most likely like to charge per square foot excluding cost of material (which will be paid by homeowner before work starts). What do you guys think? And if you've done this before what did you charge? Thanks in advance.

Frankawitz · 04-03-2007, 06:04 AM

My brother asked me about doing the floor of our step sisters two car garage . I told him that from what I have read on doing the job and what all is involed I would charge around $3,500 which would include all materials also in his case he had to power wash the floor they had some oil spots.

Michelangelo · 04-03-2007, 07:13 PM

How many guys does your labor cover? I was thinking me and 2 other people. Also do you do per sq. ft. or hourly and how long do you expect that job to last. I'm hoping to do the whole thing in one full day.

Cuz · 04-04-2007, 01:19 AM

etching, two application of epoxy and a top coat in one day, what about dry time , 12 hrs after etching but im sure you could rush certain areas

leroy · 04-04-2007, 01:09 PM

Does anyone on here do many floors? We have done a few and I would like to do more. We have used the ShieldCrete. In my eyes it is more intended for homeowners. My rep from SW had me top coat it with a product called armorseal 1k urethane. It discolored badly. It started where the tires sat on the floor and now it has spread to where all of the run off comes off of the floor from slush and rain. Now here I sit. I would like to talk to someone that does a lot of floors.

LeRoy

bill r · 04-04-2007, 05:39 PM

I use high-solids catalyzed industrial epoxies for painting sandblasted steel for marine environments. I like SW Tileclad and/or SeaGuard. Here are a few random thoughts on epoxies that the manufacturer probably won't focus your attention on:
1.) Synthetic bristles or roller covers melt in the paint. Only natural bristles or covers.
2.) The paint does not 'dry' it 'sets'. What this means is that it does not self-level; the way you leave the surface is what you get. If you stop to eat on a hot day, you'll come back to a solid 'brick' of paint in your bucket. Plan to roll on, then tip lightly with a brush. Do not thin. DO NOT SPRAY. The consistency is like warm mayonaise.
3.) The fumes will kill you. Have plenty of fresh carbon respirators at hand. Plan on plenty of high volume ventilation. The occupants should not be in the building for 24 hours or more. If I were going to do a garage, I'd take the time to make sure the fumes will stay outside the attached house. A large attic fan in a garage window is where I'd go. You really need to do the planning and work to control the evaporating solvent fumes carefully. By the way they are highly explosive. Xylene, MEK, etc.
4.) You might get away with reviving your "thoroughly cleaned" brush overnite, but plan on a new set of brushes for each job.
5.) Again, the solvents melt plastic, use metal cans or stout pasteboard ones. Plan on throwing them away after one use. Whatever you spend on coatings, you'll spend more on tools and supplies. You really need the very highest quality natural bristle brush you can find.
6.) After its cured for a week, it is a virtually indestructible surface and is well worth all the trouble.
7.) The stuff clings to its substrate mechanically. The only concern I would have on clean concrete about clinging is oil or loose dirt. I certainly wouldn't paint it over an inferior coating, why bother? I'd research what liquid 'sealers' might already be on the concrete. Read the recoat interval information very carefully. Plan on two coats min.
8.) DO NOT get it on your skin, hair or, for God's sake, in your eyes. Wherever it lands, it stays. Most guys will wrap their hair in an old T shirt.
9.) "Clean-up" HAHA Acetone.
10.) Make sure the customers cars are nowhere nearby!
11.) READ and HEED sweat-in, pot-life, cure times or you'll waste lotsa $$$.
12.) Be extremely careful to not stick your Part A tools into the Part B can, or vice-versa, or you'll ruin the product.
13.) I like to make sure the substrate is nice and warm so the paint will tack quickly to avoid bugs, etc. Halogen lamps are good for warming. They also attract bugs.

I've never worked with the flooring stuff, don't know how it might be different. Lots of people use the word 'epoxy'...You can find 12 ounce spray cans of 'one-part, air-drying epoxy'. I have no idea what that is, but it ain't the epoxy I know!

Real epoxies are strictly for the serious professional effort, and all of the warnings and cautions are serious, life-death important. Its wonderful stuff if you want a really good, hard, low maintenance surface. Don't take any shortcuts. DO NOT SPRAY.
PS Did I mention: Do not SPRAY.
One more caution: This paint chalks like the dickens in the sun.

ALLIN1 · 04-04-2007, 08:23 PM

Bill-r has it down.

SW Tile clad all the way.
But I would suggest reducing the first coat with the reducer made for tile clad. Full strength on the second coat. We did a large 5 stall garage over 3 years ago with a dark green turned out great and looks good to this day.

I think Teetorbilt once said epoxies can be cleaned up with alcohol and vinegar. He plays with epoxies quit a bit.
I myself Never tried alcohol and vinegar for clean up, but plan to on the next epoxy project.

Michelangelo · 04-04-2007, 09:16 PM

So how much are you guys charging to do a 2 car garage? One guy here said 3200 bucks. Is that close to what everyone else is doing? I ask because I'm not sure how to price my labor. Thanks again in advance.

ALLIN1 · 04-04-2007, 10:50 PM

Material you are looking at 2 gallons which will be a total of 4 with the two parts A & B. and 1 gallon of reducer My cost 145.00

Then you need rollers cover and brushes that will be thrown away after your done. 40.00

1 day 2 men to clean acid etch and prep.
Wait up to 72 hrs lots of fans will speed up the drying process. Do a moisture check with a meter. Or if you have no meter tape a 2'x2' piece of 3 mil plastic to the floor overnite. Pull the plastic next day if no moisture on plastic it should be good to go.

The plastic test will also tell you if you might have hydro static pressure coming through the slab.
Which will cause the coating to fail.
if that is the case a stain will be your best option.

1 half day 2 men to apply first coat wait 24 to 48 hr to re coat
1 half day 2 men to apply second coat wait 24 to 48 hours to walk on and up to 2 weeks for heavy traffic.
1 half day 1 man clean up

For my area I would charge 1600 to 2000.00 depending on how much grease and other contaminates are on the floor. you cost will be different

Now if it has been coat previously that is a whole new can of worms.

Michelangelo · 04-05-2007, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALLIN1

Now if it has been coat previously that is a whole new can of worms.

Yeah, unfortunately shield-crete can't be applied if the concrete has already been sealed. Thank for the tips.

Tmrrptr · 04-05-2007, 10:01 PM

Hello to group!

Hey All1... where u at ?
We just did a 2car
it was clean
blew out w dust blower
hosed & mopped around the citris cleaner
abt 3hrs work
3 days later we went back
blew out and gave 1 coat using 2 (i think they were rustoleum $67) a+b kits... maybe another 3hrs
$300
that was a deal we gave someone
he bought product
If we had gone any higher than that rate,
immigrant labor does it ALL here in CA
r

ALLIN1 · 04-05-2007, 10:38 PM

The frozen tundra wisconsin

Humble Abode · 04-06-2007, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leroy

Does anyone on here do many floors? We have done a few and I would like to do more. We have used the ShieldCrete. In my eyes it is more intended for homeowners. My rep from SW had me top coat it with a product called armorseal 1k urethane. It discolored badly. It started where the tires sat on the floor and now it has spread to where all of the run off comes off of the floor from slush and rain. Now here I sit. I would like to talk to someone that does a lot of floors.

LeRoy

I just want to make sure everyone read this...
LeRoy knows what he is talking about.

H&C is junk. It is a DIY product. So is Rustoleum. Unless your a DIYer don't use them and if your not don't give a warranty, or better yet don't do the floor at all.

No one here has even come close to mentioning the kind of prep that has to go into these floors in order for them to not fail 50% of the time...

Acid etching is not the key.

Michelangelo · 04-06-2007, 05:20 PM

What would you use Humble? I've heard tile-clad is a good option.

Humble Abode · 04-06-2007, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michelangelo

What would you use Humble? I've heard tile-clad is a good option.

I've never heard of tile-clad.

I am by no means an expert on epoxy floor coatings, but I have heard some horror stories and I know that there are a lot more things that can go wrong with these floors than can go right.

My amateur opinion based on the research I have done, and I think LeRoy will agree with me. Check out a company called Crown Polymers. LeRoy, Sean Kennedy (goes by just kennedy on this forum) and I, attended their training course a few months back and it really seams like these guys know what they are talking about. It wasn't all just sales pitch. They are seriously invested in the concrete coatings industry and, like us, very concerned about their reputation as craftsmen and quality.

They have an excellent product and know more about concrete preparation than anyone. They will tell you countless stories of failures due to bad preparation, and 50% of the horror stories will be on concrete that is only 30 days old.

So tread lightly and good luck.

SW1123 · 04-06-2007, 08:17 PM

Bill r has nailed this one down well. Products that will work best are Tile Clad, Macropoxy 646, and of course Armorseal 1000 HS. Acid etching is ok but shot blasting or grinding the floor works much better. It allows for a much better profile on the concrete. This allows the coating a much deeper surface to bind to. The profile you need is totally dependent on the coating you are using. Most epoxies will require about a 2-3 mil profile as they dry to a 2.5 to 4 mil dft. Acid etching typically cannot get better then a 2 mil profile.

MarvinWilleyJr · 04-06-2007, 08:22 PM

Great thread. I have been thinking about doing garages. And I have one I need to do, it's for my parents.....they don't realize what all is involved. And evidently I was less informed than I thought I was.

Humble Abode · 04-06-2007, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michelangelo

What would you use Humble? I've heard tile-clad is a good option.

By the way I wouldn't use anything... Not on a customers floor, I don't have the experience, hence the stern warning. I won't do any work unless I can warranty it and I do not feel comfortable giving a warranty for an epoxy floor.

Having said that I am in the process of "selling" epoxy floors to all of my friends and family. I will do all of them at cost and they know exactly what they are getting into as far as this being a training excessive for my crew and myself.

I will also be enrolling my employees and myself if needed in the training courses offered by various manufacturers and suppliers. As I said before Crown Polymers offers a two day training course and at what they charge and what you get I can honestly say they are giving away this training.

Also Blastrac offers a three day course for their concrete prep equipment. I have spoken to a sales rep and it looks like a really great deal. They teach you how to operate and maintain their equipment.

Paul from Spectrum Coatings would be the person to talk to, as far as Internet communities like this one go. I don't remember his handle over here though... He goes by spectrum on the NAPP boards.

DeanV · 04-06-2007, 08:57 PM

From what I understand (not a epoxy floor guy), the best way is to mechanically abrade the floor (B. Moore dealers rent a machine that has proper attachments). Then you need to look at industrial epoxy for the first coat (maybe a second, do not recall for sure) and then topcoat with a 2 part urethane (harder than epoxy). I had looked into it for a 3 stall garage and it was looking like ~$800 materials. He had someone else do the acid etch and $80 epoxy kit thing, and it is already failing and has NEVER even been driven on. In part, I think there was acid residue left in some areas and some oil in others that was not completely removed.

Wolverine-Eric · 04-10-2007, 02:46 PM

Hi Guys,

I'm new to these forums... my FIRST post here... lol... uhhh ohhh...

Anyway,
I'd like to offer that there are better solutions to coating residential garage floors than what is mentioned here. I am a coatings chemist who has been doing this since the 80s. I’ve developed thousands of formulations from automotive coatings to Powder Coatings to Super Heavy Duty epoxies… novolacs… urethanes… etc. I do work for a company that makes heavy duty coatings for industrial floors. I’m not going to mention any of our products in this post per the Terms of Service. In addition, we only sell to authorized applicators, experienced contractors, and companies with trained in-house maintenance. So, what I write here will be credible and stay within the Terms of Service.

First, I’ve got to assume a lot if I’m going to keep from making this post into a book. So, I understand that there are exceptions and conditions to every rule. (Just wanted to say that because there are many ‘forums’ people who try to build their self-esteem by criticizing others.) Hopefully there won’t be too many of those here…

Surface Prep:
First, let's talk about the prep... As we all know, the prep of the surface is 90% of the job. I agree that mechanical abrading such as scarifying, diamond grinding, or shot blasting provides the best substrate for coating. In addition, prep with acid such as Muriatic is good as long as the acid concentration is good (not too strong or weak) and the neutralization and washing of the floor is thorough. Some kits even contain a packet of acid crystals that you mix with water and then apply on the floor. Usually this is Sulfamic Acid crystals that have simply been repackaged. I don't recommend Sulfamic acid at all! Homeowners just don't seem to prep the floor well enough for a long lasting durable bond with it. One problem that is seen often is the failure to adequately neutralize and wash the floor after acid etching. When in doubt... rinse it again! So, what do I recommend when a mechanical prep is out of the question? There are Organic Biodegradable products on the market from several companies. These products contain natural organic acids and synergists that do a great job of 'opening up' the concrete. Plus, they are easier to use and safer! These products can typically prep a floor in as little as 30 minutes! You simply spread it on the floor.... Wait for 15 minutes... Disturb the surface with a hard bristle deck brush or broom... wait another 15 minutes... hose it out the door... Because these products self-neutralize, they won't kill the plants/grass or hurt the driveway. So, it's simple... and fast. Okay, I know... I know... you're wondering what the drawback is??? $$$ It's more expensive than Muriatic or Sulfamic acids... I think it is worth EVERY penny!

How to dry the floor:
Now, what about drying the floor? You guys that coat floors that don't know this trick yet are going to be my new best friends! I’m trying to keep within the Terms of Service so I don’t know what links are OK to post and what is not Okay… So… just jump on Google and type: “Weed Burner”. This will show you a hand held wand that will attach to an ordinary propane grill tank! You can get a one car garage floor dry enough to coat in about 20-30 minutes with one of these (depending on the product you are using)!

So, at this point we’ve got a prepared garage floor in less than 2 hours (one man)! Of course this assumes that there are no other problems with the concrete like crack… etc. I’m not going to go into that here right now… this post could end up like a book!

OK, this is getting really long so I’m going to speed things up a bit.

Should you use a primer?
Many products claim to be durable products that don’t need a primer. I ALWAYS suggest a primer for many reasons.

First, the point of the primer is to penetrate the concrete as deep as possible to provide the best anchoring (bond strength) to the concrete. We all know that a primer that is absent of fillers is going to be able to penetrate the concrete better than a filled and tinted coating. The ability to penetrate is dependant on viscosity of the material, surface tension of the material, and curing time. So, if you are using a filled system you are typically increasing the surface tension (bad) and the viscosity (making it thicker). Think of pancake batter. You add the mix (solids) into the water (unfilled). Which would penetrate the concrete to a greater depth? Would it be the pancake batter or the water?

The second reason I ALWAYS recommend a primer on concrete is that coating concrete is actually like building anything else. A structure with a foundation typically lasts longer than a structure without a foundation. Right? Makes Sense…

A primer also can cover up a multitude of errors that you had nothing to do with by sealing the substrate before applying the color coat. I could go on and on about this… Just take the extra time and USE THE PRIMER!

Next, before continuing, always check the cured primer to see if any obvious defects exist. Is there out gassing that the primer did not seal? Did the primer illuminate any other defects? Fix anything that needs to be fixed BEFORE moving on. This helps to insure that the coat you apply that needs to look great… does.

OK, I’ve got to go…

In a nutshell, I would not recommend either a solvent borne polyamide such as the Tile Clad or a water based product such as Rustoleum. I recommend using products that are 100% solids. This means that the coating does not contain any solvents or water or other liquids that can evaporate. Solvents or water are volatile which means that they will evaporate from the film. Water based products can trap water which compounds yellowing. Just imagine that you’ve laid down a film of pancake batter and you let the water evaporate. What you will get is a porous surface that will deteriorate fast and will collect dirt, mold, and other bacteria. Of course, this happens on a microscopic level so it is difficult to see with the naked eye. Another thing that happens with evaporation is… shrinkage. Imagine stretching a rubber band and sticking it to the concrete. Over time, it is going to want to come back together. So, as concrete expands and contracts on a daily basis, the coating is stressed and will eventually flake or peal. Many times, micro cracks occur in the coating at the substrate. These cracks help to alleviate the internal stress. Formulators compensate for this by flexibilizing a coating which reduces the hardness and lowers the durability.

Primer: 100% Solids Epoxy (try to find one that is fluoropolymer modified to lower the surface tension)

TopCoat: 100% Solids Epoxy or Polyurethane (try to find one that is ceramic modified)

Color Flakes: Almost all of these are vinyl… but… some people use cheaper fillers than others. Try to find chips that use Barium Sulfate as the filler.

Clearcoat: 100% Solids Cycloaliphatic Epoxy, 100% Solids Hydrogenated Epoxy, 100% solids PU, Epoxy Polysiloxane

Obviously, I’ve generalized a lot here because this post is already really long… It is also not all-inclusive. So, if you have any questions… just ask!

04-02-2007, 11:17 PM	#1
Michelangelo View Profile Michelangelo Registered User Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (9) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Registered User Trade: Floor Coatings Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9	Garage Floor Epoxy I am wanting to start painting with Shield-Crete made by H&C which can be found at their website. Is anyone familiar with this product and how much I should charge per job. It's about 100 bucks a kit (retail price) and I get it for around 70 bucks. A kit does one car garage and a sales rep told me to do two coats. Also after the two coats a clear coat is put on for a glossy finish. I would most likely like to charge per square foot excluding cost of material (which will be paid by homeowner before work starts). What do you guys think? And if you've done this before what did you charge? Thanks in advance.

04-03-2007, 06:04 AM	#2
Frankawitz View Profile Frankawitz Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (1,592) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: Plastering, Drywall, Painting, Woodworking, Stucco Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: South Eastern Michigan outside of Detroit. Posts: 1,592	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy My brother asked me about doing the floor of our step sisters two car garage . I told him that from what I have read on doing the job and what all is involed I would charge around $3,500 which would include all materials also in his case he had to power wash the floor they had some oil spots.

04-03-2007, 07:13 PM	#3
Michelangelo View Profile Michelangelo Registered User Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (9) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Registered User Trade: Floor Coatings Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy How many guys does your labor cover? I was thinking me and 2 other people. Also do you do per sq. ft. or hourly and how long do you expect that job to last. I'm hoping to do the whole thing in one full day.

04-04-2007, 01:19 AM	#4
Cuz View Profile Cuz Member Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (45) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Member Trade: Paint & Tile Join Date: May 2006 Location: Tennessee Posts: 45	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy etching, two application of epoxy and a top coat in one day, what about dry time , 12 hrs after etching but im sure you could rush certain areas

04-04-2007, 01:09 PM	#5
leroy View Profile leroy New Guy Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (22) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity New Guy Trade: Painting Contractor Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 22	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Does anyone on here do many floors? We have done a few and I would like to do more. We have used the ShieldCrete. In my eyes it is more intended for homeowners. My rep from SW had me top coat it with a product called armorseal 1k urethane. It discolored badly. It started where the tires sat on the floor and now it has spread to where all of the run off comes off of the floor from slush and rain. Now here I sit. I would like to talk to someone that does a lot of floors. LeRoy

Analysis of New Contractors Insurance Program in CA

Customer Testimonials ? I'll take them if you aren't using the...

Greenlee Glo-Stix...

DeWalt Self-Level...

Garage Floor Epoxy

Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Re: Garage Floor Epoxy

Join Now... It's Fast and FREE!

Already Have an Account?

04-04-2007, 05:39 PM	#6
bill r View Profile bill r Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (205) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Pro Trade: residential (marine) piers Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tidewater Virginia Posts: 205	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy I use high-solids catalyzed industrial epoxies for painting sandblasted steel for marine environments. I like SW Tileclad and/or SeaGuard. Here are a few random thoughts on epoxies that the manufacturer probably won't focus your attention on: 1.) Synthetic bristles or roller covers melt in the paint. Only natural bristles or covers. 2.) The paint does not 'dry' it 'sets'. What this means is that it does not self-level; the way you leave the surface is what you get. If you stop to eat on a hot day, you'll come back to a solid 'brick' of paint in your bucket. Plan to roll on, then tip lightly with a brush. Do not thin. DO NOT SPRAY. The consistency is like warm mayonaise. 3.) The fumes will kill you. Have plenty of fresh carbon respirators at hand. Plan on plenty of high volume ventilation. The occupants should not be in the building for 24 hours or more. If I were going to do a garage, I'd take the time to make sure the fumes will stay outside the attached house. A large attic fan in a garage window is where I'd go. You really need to do the planning and work to control the evaporating solvent fumes carefully. By the way they are highly explosive. Xylene, MEK, etc. 4.) You might get away with reviving your "thoroughly cleaned" brush overnite, but plan on a new set of brushes for each job. 5.) Again, the solvents melt plastic, use metal cans or stout pasteboard ones. Plan on throwing them away after one use. Whatever you spend on coatings, you'll spend more on tools and supplies. You really need the very highest quality natural bristle brush you can find. 6.) After its cured for a week, it is a virtually indestructible surface and is well worth all the trouble. 7.) The stuff clings to its substrate mechanically. The only concern I would have on clean concrete about clinging is oil or loose dirt. I certainly wouldn't paint it over an inferior coating, why bother? I'd research what liquid 'sealers' might already be on the concrete. Read the recoat interval information very carefully. Plan on two coats min. 8.) DO NOT get it on your skin, hair or, for God's sake, in your eyes. Wherever it lands, it stays. Most guys will wrap their hair in an old T shirt. 9.) "Clean-up" HAHA Acetone. 10.) Make sure the customers cars are nowhere nearby! 11.) READ and HEED sweat-in, pot-life, cure times or you'll waste lotsa $$$. 12.) Be extremely careful to not stick your Part A tools into the Part B can, or vice-versa, or you'll ruin the product. 13.) I like to make sure the substrate is nice and warm so the paint will tack quickly to avoid bugs, etc. Halogen lamps are good for warming. They also attract bugs. I've never worked with the flooring stuff, don't know how it might be different. Lots of people use the word 'epoxy'...You can find 12 ounce spray cans of 'one-part, air-drying epoxy'. I have no idea what that is, but it ain't the epoxy I know! Real epoxies are strictly for the serious professional effort, and all of the warnings and cautions are serious, life-death important. Its wonderful stuff if you want a really good, hard, low maintenance surface. Don't take any shortcuts. DO NOT SPRAY. PS Did I mention: Do not SPRAY. One more caution: This paint chalks like the dickens in the sun. Last edited by bill r; 04-05-2007 at 05:10 PM.

04-04-2007, 08:23 PM	#7
ALLIN1 View Profile ALLIN1 Member Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (31) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Member Trade: Home Improvements Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 31	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Bill-r has it down. SW Tile clad all the way. But I would suggest reducing the first coat with the reducer made for tile clad. Full strength on the second coat. We did a large 5 stall garage over 3 years ago with a dark green turned out great and looks good to this day. I think Teetorbilt once said epoxies can be cleaned up with alcohol and vinegar. He plays with epoxies quit a bit. I myself Never tried alcohol and vinegar for clean up, but plan to on the next epoxy project.

04-04-2007, 09:16 PM	#8
Michelangelo View Profile Michelangelo Registered User Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (9) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Registered User Trade: Floor Coatings Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy So how much are you guys charging to do a 2 car garage? One guy here said 3200 bucks. Is that close to what everyone else is doing? I ask because I'm not sure how to price my labor. Thanks again in advance.

04-04-2007, 10:50 PM	#9
ALLIN1 View Profile ALLIN1 Member Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (31) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Member Trade: Home Improvements Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 31	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Material you are looking at 2 gallons which will be a total of 4 with the two parts A & B. and 1 gallon of reducer My cost 145.00 Then you need rollers cover and brushes that will be thrown away after your done. 40.00 1 day 2 men to clean acid etch and prep. Wait up to 72 hrs lots of fans will speed up the drying process. Do a moisture check with a meter. Or if you have no meter tape a 2'x2' piece of 3 mil plastic to the floor overnite. Pull the plastic next day if no moisture on plastic it should be good to go. The plastic test will also tell you if you might have hydro static pressure coming through the slab. Which will cause the coating to fail. if that is the case a stain will be your best option. 1 half day 2 men to apply first coat wait 24 to 48 hr to re coat 1 half day 2 men to apply second coat wait 24 to 48 hours to walk on and up to 2 weeks for heavy traffic. 1 half day 1 man clean up For my area I would charge 1600 to 2000.00 depending on how much grease and other contaminates are on the floor. you cost will be different Now if it has been coat previously that is a whole new can of worms.

04-05-2007, 10:01 PM	#11
Tmrrptr View Profile Tmrrptr MFWIC Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (490) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity MFWIC Trade: house painter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: alta california Posts: 490	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Hello to group! Hey All1... where u at ? We just did a 2car it was clean blew out w dust blower hosed & mopped around the citris cleaner abt 3hrs work 3 days later we went back blew out and gave 1 coat using 2 (i think they were rustoleum $67) a+b kits... maybe another 3hrs $300 that was a deal we gave someone he bought product If we had gone any higher than that rate, immigrant labor does it ALL here in CA r

04-05-2007, 10:38 PM	#12
ALLIN1 View Profile ALLIN1 Member Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (31) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Member Trade: Home Improvements Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 31	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy The frozen tundra wisconsin

04-06-2007, 05:20 PM	#14
Michelangelo View Profile Michelangelo Registered User Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (9) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Registered User Trade: Floor Coatings Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy What would you use Humble? I've heard tile-clad is a good option.

04-06-2007, 08:17 PM	#16
SW1123 View Profile SW1123 Registered User Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (14) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Registered User Trade: Paint Sales Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 14	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Bill r has nailed this one down well. Products that will work best are Tile Clad, Macropoxy 646, and of course Armorseal 1000 HS. Acid etching is ok but shot blasting or grinding the floor works much better. It allows for a much better profile on the concrete. This allows the coating a much deeper surface to bind to. The profile you need is totally dependent on the coating you are using. Most epoxies will require about a 2-3 mil profile as they dry to a 2.5 to 4 mil dft. Acid etching typically cannot get better then a 2 mil profile.

04-06-2007, 08:22 PM	#17
MarvinWilleyJr View Profile MarvinWilleyJr Educated Applicator Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (362) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Educated Applicator Trade: Painting & Fine Finishes Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 362	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Great thread. I have been thinking about doing garages. And I have one I need to do, it's for my parents.....they don't realize what all is involved. And evidently I was less informed than I thought I was.

04-06-2007, 08:57 PM	#19
DeanV View Profile DeanV Pro Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (607) Photos (0) Reviews (4) Projects (0) Toolbox (10) View All Activity Pro Trade: Painter Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: MI Posts: 607	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy From what I understand (not a epoxy floor guy), the best way is to mechanically abrade the floor (B. Moore dealers rent a machine that has proper attachments). Then you need to look at industrial epoxy for the first coat (maybe a second, do not recall for sure) and then topcoat with a 2 part urethane (harder than epoxy). I had looked into it for a 3 stall garage and it was looking like ~$800 materials. He had someone else do the acid etch and $80 epoxy kit thing, and it is already failing and has NEVER even been driven on. In part, I think there was acid residue left in some areas and some oil in others that was not completely removed.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Garage receptacle	ChuckEA	Electrical	21	04-27-2011 07:45 PM
garage insulation	maderuyck	HVAC	2	03-18-2007 12:43 PM
Flat roof over garage leaking under exterior walk out door	IHI	Roofing	18	05-30-2006 10:28 PM
...continued...garage floor drain progress	carlspackler	Plumbing	0	05-27-2006 02:54 PM
Hot and cold water in the garage	Mike Finley	Plumbing	18	12-06-2005 08:07 AM

04-10-2007, 02:46 PM	#20
Wolverine-Eric View Profile Wolverine-Eric Epoxy Dude Send Message Follow Blogs (0) Threads (217) Photos (0) Reviews (0) Projects (0) Toolbox (0) View All Activity Epoxy Dude Trade: Industrial Coatings & Linings Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Spartanburg, SC Posts: 217	Re: Garage Floor Epoxy Hi Guys, I'm new to these forums... my FIRST post here... lol... uhhh ohhh... Anyway, I'd like to offer that there are better solutions to coating residential garage floors than what is mentioned here. I am a coatings chemist who has been doing this since the 80s. I’ve developed thousands of formulations from automotive coatings to Powder Coatings to Super Heavy Duty epoxies… novolacs… urethanes… etc. I do work for a company that makes heavy duty coatings for industrial floors. I’m not going to mention any of our products in this post per the Terms of Service. In addition, we only sell to authorized applicators, experienced contractors, and companies with trained in-house maintenance. So, what I write here will be credible and stay within the Terms of Service. First, I’ve got to assume a lot if I’m going to keep from making this post into a book. So, I understand that there are exceptions and conditions to every rule. (Just wanted to say that because there are many ‘forums’ people who try to build their self-esteem by criticizing others.) Hopefully there won’t be too many of those here… Surface Prep: First, let's talk about the prep... As we all know, the prep of the surface is 90% of the job. I agree that mechanical abrading such as scarifying, diamond grinding, or shot blasting provides the best substrate for coating. In addition, prep with acid such as Muriatic is good as long as the acid concentration is good (not too strong or weak) and the neutralization and washing of the floor is thorough. Some kits even contain a packet of acid crystals that you mix with water and then apply on the floor. Usually this is Sulfamic Acid crystals that have simply been repackaged. I don't recommend Sulfamic acid at all! Homeowners just don't seem to prep the floor well enough for a long lasting durable bond with it. One problem that is seen often is the failure to adequately neutralize and wash the floor after acid etching. When in doubt... rinse it again! So, what do I recommend when a mechanical prep is out of the question? There are Organic Biodegradable products on the market from several companies. These products contain natural organic acids and synergists that do a great job of 'opening up' the concrete. Plus, they are easier to use and safer! These products can typically prep a floor in as little as 30 minutes! You simply spread it on the floor.... Wait for 15 minutes... Disturb the surface with a hard bristle deck brush or broom... wait another 15 minutes... hose it out the door... Because these products self-neutralize, they won't kill the plants/grass or hurt the driveway. So, it's simple... and fast. Okay, I know... I know... you're wondering what the drawback is??? $$$ It's more expensive than Muriatic or Sulfamic acids... I think it is worth EVERY penny! How to dry the floor: Now, what about drying the floor? You guys that coat floors that don't know this trick yet are going to be my new best friends! I’m trying to keep within the Terms of Service so I don’t know what links are OK to post and what is not Okay… So… just jump on Google and type: “Weed Burner”. This will show you a hand held wand that will attach to an ordinary propane grill tank! You can get a one car garage floor dry enough to coat in about 20-30 minutes with one of these (depending on the product you are using)! So, at this point we’ve got a prepared garage floor in less than 2 hours (one man)! Of course this assumes that there are no other problems with the concrete like crack… etc. I’m not going to go into that here right now… this post could end up like a book! OK, this is getting really long so I’m going to speed things up a bit. Should you use a primer? Many products claim to be durable products that don’t need a primer. I ALWAYS suggest a primer for many reasons. First, the point of the primer is to penetrate the concrete as deep as possible to provide the best anchoring (bond strength) to the concrete. We all know that a primer that is absent of fillers is going to be able to penetrate the concrete better than a filled and tinted coating. The ability to penetrate is dependant on viscosity of the material, surface tension of the material, and curing time. So, if you are using a filled system you are typically increasing the surface tension (bad) and the viscosity (making it thicker). Think of pancake batter. You add the mix (solids) into the water (unfilled). Which would penetrate the concrete to a greater depth? Would it be the pancake batter or the water? The second reason I ALWAYS recommend a primer on concrete is that coating concrete is actually like building anything else. A structure with a foundation typically lasts longer than a structure without a foundation. Right? Makes Sense… A primer also can cover up a multitude of errors that you had nothing to do with by sealing the substrate before applying the color coat. I could go on and on about this… Just take the extra time and USE THE PRIMER! Next, before continuing, always check the cured primer to see if any obvious defects exist. Is there out gassing that the primer did not seal? Did the primer illuminate any other defects? Fix anything that needs to be fixed BEFORE moving on. This helps to insure that the coat you apply that needs to look great… does. OK, I’ve got to go… In a nutshell, I would not recommend either a solvent borne polyamide such as the Tile Clad or a water based product such as Rustoleum. I recommend using products that are 100% solids. This means that the coating does not contain any solvents or water or other liquids that can evaporate. Solvents or water are volatile which means that they will evaporate from the film. Water based products can trap water which compounds yellowing. Just imagine that you’ve laid down a film of pancake batter and you let the water evaporate. What you will get is a porous surface that will deteriorate fast and will collect dirt, mold, and other bacteria. Of course, this happens on a microscopic level so it is difficult to see with the naked eye. Another thing that happens with evaporation is… shrinkage. Imagine stretching a rubber band and sticking it to the concrete. Over time, it is going to want to come back together. So, as concrete expands and contracts on a daily basis, the coating is stressed and will eventually flake or peal. Many times, micro cracks occur in the coating at the substrate. These cracks help to alleviate the internal stress. Formulators compensate for this by flexibilizing a coating which reduces the hardness and lowers the durability. Primer: 100% Solids Epoxy (try to find one that is fluoropolymer modified to lower the surface tension) TopCoat: 100% Solids Epoxy or Polyurethane (try to find one that is ceramic modified) Color Flakes: Almost all of these are vinyl… but… some people use cheaper fillers than others. Try to find chips that use Barium Sulfate as the filler. Clearcoat: 100% Solids Cycloaliphatic Epoxy, 100% Solids Hydrogenated Epoxy, 100% solids PU, Epoxy Polysiloxane Obviously, I’ve generalized a lot here because this post is already really long… It is also not all-inclusive. So, if you have any questions… just ask!