Tommy C

Hey Guys...

What is meant by a "floated joint"? I'm sure I know what it is, but I haven't heard it called that term.

-T

ProWallGuy

Taped and mudded.

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Tommy C

For hardibacker, or cement board, would self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape work, and then skim over it with joint compound?

Sorry for the elementary questions...I'm a mason

A W Smith

Well it could mean taped and mudded. But it could also mean a joint which does not break on a joist or stud. Although I have never tried or seen this in practice. There is a method of making butt joints with a taper. In involves using a shimmed strip of plywood between framing members to cause the butt ends of the drywall to dip, dive or taper between framing members. When you finish this butt joint it becomes truly flat with no belly.

A W Smith

I never use joint compound on backer board. I always use tile mastic with mesh tape. The exception is the transition between drywall and backer board.

jackrabbit5

There's a much easier way to eliminate butt joint bellies. Install the drywall vertically and you won't have butt joints, other than on ceilings or very high walls.

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A W Smith

Well I was thinking ceilings. but i always run walls horizontal because of framing layout issues on most jobs. But while we are on the subject. I have seen ceilings run the same direction as the joists have tent sag issues. With the board sagging between ceiling joists when run in the same direction. You wouldn't think drywall has a grain or difference in directional strength but it is screeded and drawn through the manufacturing process in the long direction. I have seen this tent sag issue many times.

Tommy C

Thanks for the responses...this will be for an interior brick veneer wall. I need to put cement board, then apply my brick veneer to the wall. There is a plaster wall there currently. I guess what I'm asking is...what is the easiest way to do this?

Install the cement board in horizontally or vertically? Tape the joints with mesh, or paper tape? Then use joint compound, or tile cement?

A W Smith

brick veneer? you mean like cultured stone? why not builders felt and wire lath? then scratch coat, then set your brick veneer. At any rate if your using backer board use whatever you will be setting your brick with as your mesh tape setting. be it mortar or thinset.

kgphoto

Cement board horizontally, alkaline resistant mesh tape, thin set. No drywall mud or drywall mesh tape at all.

AW and I wrote at the same time.

By the way, a "floated joint" means made smooth by using mud and tape. A "floated corner" means no fasteners in the last 6-8 inches before the end/edge of the board and held against the framing by the intersecting board. This is done with drywall to resist cracking in corners and wall to ceiling transitions.

Tommy C

That's what I would normally do - scratch coat - but someone on the masonry board suggested cement board. And once I thought about it, I realized that it probably would be quicker to use cement board - plus, I won't have to wait overnight for the scratch coat to dry.

Is fiberglass mesh tape (the adhesive kind) the best material for the seams? I hear that the paper tape is best...

A W Smith

Paper tape is stronger in a drywall application. But for backer board i would always use mesh tape and embed it using the same mastic or whatever you will be sticking the brick with.

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Tommy C

AW Smith,

How about the adhesive fiberglass mesh tape? This I could just apply, and skim over it with thin set, correct?

A W Smith

yes as far as I know all mesh tape is adhesive backed. Ive not seen a roll that wasn't. When I say embed it is really a misnomer. But because it is a mesh and not a solid or paper you will be embedding it by skimming over it.

woodmagman

Hey...you have two post on the same subject goin on here....thanks AW

woodmagman

If you are installing stone over the board, don't waste your time floating anything. Place the fibre tape as you are installing the stone, use the same motar to embed the mesh....

Tommy C

Thanks for the help, guys!

oldrivers

You wouldn't think drywall has a grain or difference in directional strength but it is screeded and drawn through the manufacturing process in the long direction. I have seen this tent sag issue many times.[/quote]


yep just take a piece of drywall and break it in half then hold it up to a light and you can see the fibres sticking out the end. break it the other way and there are none.