Ext Tip for Ceilings ? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

We Fix Houses · 08-23-2009, 08:27 AM

Just got a new Graco XR9 on close out $400. I guess it was a good deal.

Got a question ? Do you guys use an extension tip to do 8' ceilings ? What length ?

Addl - A 515 too much for a rookie like me ? Use a 415 instead ? Ceiling and walls.

Thanks
Steve

Steve Richards · 08-23-2009, 09:46 AM

For an 8' ceiling, the only extension I'd use is my arm...pointing up.

Unless of course I was less than 5' tall, which I'm not.

Wolfgang · 08-23-2009, 05:33 PM

Same as what Steve said. If you take the first number of the tip and double it, that will give you your fan width, the second two will give you the tip size.

Metro M & L · 08-24-2009, 01:27 AM

If you're not shooting in closets an extension is nice to keep you out of the paint. I find I use the 12" extension pretty frequently and you get an extra guard which will probably come in handy. Save the little red cap that screws in the back because it will save your washer/seal from falling out when you're done with the tool.

Mantis · 08-27-2009, 08:35 PM

I will often use my 20" tip extension when spraying ceilings if we're spraying an area with anything above 8'. If 8' is the maximum height then I dont think I would bother breaking it out. Though, as Metro said, a little extra length is great to help keep you out of the fallout.

As for tip size, I prime walls and ceilings with a 517 and finish ceilings with a 515. So I dont think 515 would be "too much" for you, depending on what material you're spraying on those ceilings, it might be too little

vandyandsons · 08-31-2009, 05:38 PM

yes

i like a 12" pipe for 8' and a 20" pipe for most other stuff.

i also always use a swivel head too.

i usually use a .17-.21 tip for interior drywall.

We Fix Houses · 08-31-2009, 06:04 PM

Vandy -

I think I'll get the 12" for the 8' ceilings then.

I just looked up that swivel tip. A 45 or 180 ? What do you use it for ? Comfort or to keep the fall off your face ?

Also what tip to do door frames SW Super Paint SG latex.

For the grand finale question.......Can you describe how best to spray the walls when the ceilings are a different color ? Cut in the walls - then a shield a few inches from the ceiling ?

Its all previously painted dw and woodwork, house built 1965.

I won't be a rookie this time next week.

Metro M & L · 08-31-2009, 09:37 PM

I think typical order is - and this was discussed at length in the 'spraying new construction' thread -

Spray ceiling
Shoot trim and doors (211-313 you should start with a 211)
Cut and roll walls

You could shoot walls, drop plastic (10.00 a room in tape and film), shoot ceiling, mask trim top and bottom ($$$) and still get over spray all over the walls, then come back and try and catch all the little mistakes and hazes from the spray. I'm pretty sure I can just paint and cut a wall in the time it would take me to mask off the trim. And the results are better.

vandyandsons · 09-01-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by We Fix Houses

Vandy -

I think I'll get the 12" for the 8' ceilings then.

I just looked up that swivel tip. A 45 or 180 ? What do you use it for ? Comfort or to keep the fall off your face ?

Also what tip to do door frames SW Super Paint SG latex.

For the grand finale question.......Can you describe how best to spray the walls when the ceilings are a different color ? Cut in the walls - then a shield a few inches from the ceiling ?

Its all previously painted dw and woodwork, house built 1965.

I won't be a rookie this time next week.

I use a swivel head mainly for added control of my spray pattern. I think mine are 180 but a 45 would work too. A swivel head gives you the ability to get material to the surface from many different angles.

Door frames: I usually use a 209 or 210 (and I don't like the gray fine finish tips very much, I stick with the black ones).

My typical order of operations for a spray job:
1) Spray/ back roll walls 1st coat
2) Spray/ backroll ceilings (all coats)
3) Spray out trim package (all coats)
4) Patch walls, mask off where needed
5) stick sand walls and spot prime patches
6) cut in walls twice (to get sheen uniformity)
7) roll walls following 2nd cut in.

We Fix Houses · 09-01-2009, 06:31 PM

Thanks a lot Vandy......I also looked at the 'spraying new construction' thread. Good info there too.

I've painted quite a bit resid just not too much spray. Sprayed just in an industrial plant.

Also have some freeze board w/ dentil molding on the outside. Looking forward to knocking off 2/3 of that time vs. brush.

I'll check in next week and let you know how things went.

We Fix Houses · 09-20-2009, 11:20 AM

Just wanted to check in and say thanks for the help. Things went really well. Probably cut 2/3 the time vs cut and roll without a spray rig.

Sprayed the ceilings, prime and finish flat white. Man behind me back rolling. Started with a .519 but had to cut it back to a .515. Used a 12" extension made it easier on the 8' ceilings

Sprayed the trim with a .213 (still a bit too much paint). Really needed a .211 Moved along really well.
Both above had the pump turned down pretty good.

Then cut in the walls 2x, very light green and rolled them out. Closets in 20 sec !

Thanks a lot.

Metro M & L · 09-20-2009, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metro M & L

I think typical order is - and this was discussed at length in the 'spraying new construction' thread -

Spray ceiling
Shoot trim and doors (211-313 you should start with a 211)
Cut and roll walls

You could shoot walls, drop plastic (10.00 a room in tape and film), shoot ceiling, mask trim top and bottom ($$$) and still get over spray all over the walls, then come back and try and catch all the little mistakes and hazes from the spray. I'm pretty sure I can just paint and cut a wall in the time it would take me to mask off the trim. And the results are better.

TUS