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02-28-2007, 06:16 PM
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#1
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Pro
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Painting Contractor
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Location: SW Suburban Chicago
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Dryvit painting
Anyone out there painted dryvit? Any special paints etc.. to use? I have to look an exterior orver the weekend, mostly cedar but owner says theres some dryvit accents and wanted them freshened up also.
Any suggesstions? I have painted stucco before but never dryvit. Thanks.
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MAK Deco
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02-28-2007, 07:39 PM
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#2
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Professional Tradesman
Trade:
Painting-Wallcoverings-Drywall-Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakDeco
Anyone out there painted dryvit? Any special paints etc.. to use? I have to look an exterior orver the weekend, mostly cedar but owner says theres some dryvit accents and wanted them freshened up also.
Any suggesstions? I have painted stucco before but never dryvit. Thanks.
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When painting dryvit we apply 1 coat of sealcrete sealer with a sprayer and back roll it. Then apply one or 2 coats acrylic topcoat.
The sealcrete acts as a new bonding surface for topcoats.
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02-28-2007, 07:44 PM
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#3
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Pro
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Painter
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Location: MI
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I have only done job with dryvit and was told that it did not need any primer, I just did 2 coats of acrylic paint on new dryvit, one coat on the previously painted.
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02-28-2007, 07:54 PM
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#4
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Pro
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Painting Contractor
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Location: SW Suburban Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPI
When painting dryvit we apply 1 coat of sealcrete sealer with a sprayer and back roll it. Then apply one or 2 coats acrylic topcoat.
The sealcrete acts as a new bonding surface for topcoats.
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Thats the clear sealer correct?
__________________
MAK Deco
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02-28-2007, 08:16 PM
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#5
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Professional Tradesman
Trade:
Painting-Wallcoverings-Drywall-Carpentry
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakDeco
Thats the clear sealer correct?
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Yes its clear. Dryvit chalks and even with pressure washing its still there minimally, so an additional seal coat providing a new stable bonding surface is recommended. This is why Sherwin sells their own product for masonry like Loxon Surfacer, Sealcrete is sold at Home Depot for less cost than the Loxon brand. Stable Bonding surface is key, longevity of your topcoat will depend on that.
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02-28-2007, 08:26 PM
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#6
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Yes i have seen similar products, I will consider that when looking at the job, thanks.
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MAK Deco
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02-28-2007, 09:52 PM
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#7
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Member
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Painter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Nitro, WV
Posts: 73
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I would recommend flat paint 2 coats 100% acrylic, as dryvit really soaks up the paint. Satin or Semi can be a nightmare. A good pressure washing of course.
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03-01-2007, 03:11 PM
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#8
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Professional Tradesman
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Painting-Wallcoverings-Drywall-Carpentry
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Location: Ohio
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmcgrew79
I would recommend flat paint 2 coats 100% acrylic, as dryvit really soaks up the paint. Satin or Semi can be a nightmare. A good pressure washing of course.
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Flat? You must be kidding. On dryvit , you would need to repaint once a year! OMG
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03-01-2007, 03:21 PM
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#9
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My custom title
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Painting, faux, rock, plaster, texture, tile, laminates, finish carpentry contractor
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Location: Tallahassee, FL
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I've always used Loxon, i'll check out the sealcrete though, heard alot about it.
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Benn
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brian
Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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03-01-2007, 06:19 PM
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#10
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Pro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPI
Flat? You must be kidding. On dryvit , you would need to repaint once a year! OMG 
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I have never seen dryvit with a sheen before always a flat look to it.
__________________
MAK Deco
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03-01-2007, 07:51 PM
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#11
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Member
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painting contractor
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how do you tell the difference between dryvit and stucco? what are the properties to look for.
Gary
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03-01-2007, 09:08 PM
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#12
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Pro
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Paint
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If the stucco is in great condition, just pressure wash and apply an acrylic topcoat. If you do not have too worry about winddriven rain, you can use SW A100 or Superpaint. If you have to protect against windriven rain you will want to use SW Sherlastic or Conflex elastomeric coatings. If the stucco has chalking I would recommend SW Loxon Conditioner or Sealcrete. You can get Sealcrete at some SW locals.
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03-01-2007, 10:08 PM
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#13
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Pro
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Custom Repaint craftsman/Deck Restorer/Soft washer
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Location: Reading, Pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPI
Flat? You must be kidding. On dryvit , you would need to repaint once a year! OMG 
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I would never do a job using flat, but imagine the extra work for others down the road. I would appreciate it, but ofcoarse most homeowners have the let it ride until I have to repair structural damage mentality.
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03-03-2007, 12:00 AM
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#14
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Member
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Painter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Nitro, WV
Posts: 73
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We actually see 2 dryvit projects that we painted about 2 years ago, on a monthly basis. They look as good now as two years ago. Our local sw paint rep actually specs flat for dryvit as he as been doing specs for about 20 years now. So i would take his word over others. Dryvit is porous, and a rough surface, so in theory it doesnt matter what sheen you put on it, it the rough surface will eventually collect dirt. As will block brick etc.
As for the EIFS/Dryvit and stucco difference. Stucco is derived from portland cement or lime and, dryvit is a acrylic material applied over a base coat and foam.
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03-03-2007, 08:56 AM
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#15
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Pro
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Painting Contractor
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Thanks all for your imput. Most of the people I talk to here locally recommended flat also. I will propably figure BM's Moorlife, as i do not use SW.
Thanks again for imput.
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MAK Deco
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03-21-2007, 03:49 PM
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#16
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Registered User
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Painting
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Actually there are 3 types of what is commonly called stucco or Dryvit. Stucco is a portland cement based product. Dryvit, Sto, Parex, and a host of others comes in 2 forms, cementitious base and and synthetic base. The surface finish is usally acrylic but there are some surfaces (made by STO) that have silicone finishes. Pressure washing these surfaces is not always effective because the surface softens with sun exposure. Dirt gets entrapped in the surface as it cools which really locks it in. Mold and mildew attach to the entrapped dirt which is what causes the stains and streaks. The silicone based finishes do not soften and stay looking nice for a long time. There are several choices for repainting but as usual prep is the most important part of the job. Beside the flexible latex paints there are specialized silicone based paints that work well with these surfaces. I would guess that elastomeric paints might not be a good choice since they do not allow water vapor to escape and might blister easily.
Last edited by Tommy Boy; 03-22-2007 at 08:12 AM.
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03-21-2007, 06:39 PM
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#17
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Pro
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Painter
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Location: Las Vegas NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakDeco
Thanks all for your imput. Most of the people I talk to here locally recommended flat also. I will propably figure BM's Moorlife, as i do not use SW.
Thanks again for imput.
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Isn't that a SW fan dec?
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03-21-2007, 09:58 PM
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#18
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Pro
Trade:
Painting Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SW Suburban Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joewho
Isn't that a SW fan dec?
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No Sir its a BM Color preview
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MAK Deco
Last edited by MakDeco; 03-21-2007 at 09:58 PM.
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