Doors And Trim Advice

Will

Drywaller back again, guys helped me get by with everything else so far. This time I gotta tackle some new trim and repainting old doors and jambs.

Was suppose to do some doors a while ago, but they changed their mind so these will be my first doors. The new trim will be all new baseboards, new window and door trim. It will all be preprimed MDF and I will be installing it. Installed plenty of trim in my time, just never done the painting.

I did ask about the doors once before here, and I plan to follow that advice. Gonna sand em down pretty decent and clean up the joints and caulk where needed. I checked the doors the other day and they seem to have a latex topcoat, came off pretty easy with a little alcohol and under that it looks like a yellowish either primer or previous color that doesn't want to come off.

I am just wondering what my best plan of attack is to get the smoothest finish on the doors and trim. Would I be better off doing a primer and using an oil based paint? They have speced Impervo, but not water/oil.

And what is the best nonspray way to apply it to get the smoothest finish? Doors are solid wood, pine I am guessing.

Any tips appreciated
Thanks
Will

Glasshousebltr

Dam Will, I tryed to read it all, but I feel like I'm sitting down with a Paris Hilton pre nup.

Bob

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AAPaint

Oil over latex won't work. Did you completely remove the previous latex coating? The smoothest finish you can get without spraying means using a foam nap roller. The only problem with those is they tend to slide instead of roll, and you can't get a heavy coat for that very reason. Get a wizzie aka hot dog roller aka cigar roller and just roll the door out.

From the sounds of it, the yellow coating is an oil based product that was topped with latex. The only way you'll get away with using oil on it now is to completely remove the latex, and positively identify the under coat as oil...only then would you be able to prime with an oil based primer and paint with oil.

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slickshift

I'd ditch the oil idea
They spec'd Impervo? Satin finish?
Or can you use this stuff:

Dale

Thats a great product. I think its Impervex and not Impervo...but close enough.

Why do they not want the w/b Impervo?

Will

Thanks for the reply guys..

The want a satin finish on the trim/doors. Guess I will go with the latex impervo. Any tips on getting it smoother on the doors/trim? Will get one of those small foam rollers for as much of the flat as I can. Can it be thinned with anything to make it smooth out any more?

I will do a test on a few doors in my house that could use a repainting because I tackle theirs. I would rather test and screw up mine

The preprimed MDF, I was planning on putting 2 coats on the trim before installing, then just filling the nail holes and then putting the 3rd coat just on that flat area, so I wouldn't have to cut in or worry about the detail at the top with a brush while its on the wall.. Sound like a decent plan or should I do this another way?

Thanks

AAPaint

Sounds like a decent plan to me. I would get some Flotrol for that impervo. It will help it lay out smoother and give you a good finish. You can also cut it down with a little water to help the workability of the paint....it won't hurt it one bit. I frequently use flotrol <sp> or water if I don't have any to help the leveling of some trim paints I use.

For the trim....that's also not a bad plan. I saw a guy do it this way installing a chair rail in a house I was painting. I liked the idea because I didn't have to paint it when he was done! Just be easy on it when you're puttin it up and you shouldn't have any troubles.

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slickshift

As a painter, I'd prefer to put the final coat on after it's installed
But as painting isn't really you're bag, you've probably got a good idea there
It should work out fine

The Flotrol will help smooth it out

donb1959

Huh? Ive painted many a home with oil over latex, however I do know that latex doesnt bond to oil.

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Dale

Sounds good.

I don't think you should have and leveling proplems with the Impervo right out of the can...matter of fact you kinda have to watch and pick up the sags with Impervo, but it lays out real smooth.

If you were going to use the Impervex, I could see lightening it up a bit for flow and leveling.

Dale

Dale

I think that transitioning oils to latex is a good idea.

Depending on the application, dull or scuff the oil or put a tie coat primer on and run with latex.

One of the best systems is an oil primer topped with latex.

Dale

George Z

These days anything over anything works fine.
Assuming you do the right prepwork, or use super adhering primer.
I haven't seen anything where a Gripper or Zinsser primers won't stick.
That is my experience over 20 years and the chance to see how coatings
are many years later.
The problem was not the latex over oil on the doors,
but lack of prep and priming.
The oil over latex on exteriors could be a problem because of expansion
of the coats under under a top coat that doesn't.

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Will

One more question.. Wondering if I should reprime the entire doors with something like Fresh start before I put on the impervo? Or will just sanding it down and spot sanding if I go too be get the job done? Not trying to skip a prep step, just want to get everything and smooth as possible if that extra coat of primer isn't needed, figure that will help some.

Thanks

Will

Sorry, one more question. Found out I have 2 closet doors where the top half are louvered doors. Ugh.

Previously painted like crap too, heavy brush marks, pooling in the corners. Any advice on tackling these? Would using some type of stripper be a better solution than trying to sand each one of these suckers down? Would have to sand some after the stripping, but not as much as sanding the paint down.

If so, any product recommendations for the stripper? Tested to make sure, and its latex.

Thanks

Teetorbilt

I'm not exactly Mr. Eco anything and use a product called Aircraft Stripper from Jarmco. It will remove almost anything including parts of you. Follow directions to the letter.

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old27

Is that like 5F5? I've seen that stuff in action and it is nasty.

Happy Holidays.

-old

GEB7678

I use kilz premium, then u can put what ever u want on it afterward. Satin Impervo is good lays beutifuly, but I would go with the Ben Moore Regal Line, Aquapearl or Aqua Glo if ur doing latex, Dries fast but lays well.

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AAPaint

Hmm....I have never applied oil over latex because of the flexibility issues you speak of. However, latex over oil based primer is a big winner in my book, and I have never had trouble with latex products on top of old oil finishes after properly prepping. I guess I'm just stuck on old thinking...I'd like to see oil over latex though and how well it performs.

Anyone had any trouble with things like slow dry oil primers or other oil products lifting up previous layers of latex?

I absolutely abhor stripping paint, especially after completing the underside of a pine staircase with three coats of latex...I used Dad's stripper and it worked pretty good. The trick is keeping it wet where you are working, and not getting it on you......OUCH! The most important part though is nuetralizing the wood before applying paint or stain.....wipe it all down with spirits once the stripping is done and the wood has dried.

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Jacksonville, FL.

GEB7678

5f5 is great stuff, if u dont have to worry bout the fumes or mess

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Dale

Heres a blip on the oil over latex question from the Paint Quality Institute.

Latex Over Oil
A top quality exterior acrylic latex paint is an excellent choice when repainting. And it can be applied with confidence over oil-based paints, although some latex paint manufacturers do recommend use of a primer.Priming an unsound repaint surface

One situation to be aware of, however, is that of a heavy buildup of old oil-based paint that is shrinking with age. A coat of latex paint can apply enough stress during and after drying that it can lift the old paint from the surface. In cases where there is such a buildup, continue with an oil-based paint.

On the other hand, it is best not to apply oil-based paint over a latex paint or primer, since the latex product can be considerably more flexible than oil-based paint. As a result, the oil-based finish coat may have an excessive tendency to crack with time. An exception is the application of alkyd primers over latex paint, because they are formulated to remain more flexible than are alkyd finish coats.

Wood differs from most of the other substrates you paint because it is a natural substance. Yet, it continues to play an important role as both a structural and decorative material. By knowing how to paint wood properly, you will allow this natural wonder to continue to perform its unique function for years to come.