Cover Stain

Kashmir

I was wondering what's everyone's take on Cover Stain? I am doing a large new construction and my choices for interior trim primer are Cover stain or BM Enamel Underbody. The finish will be BM Dulamel semi-gloss. My BM rep insists on the supremacy of enamel underbody cause of the hard top coat that it forms. But all the interior trim and beadboard is already factory primed. It does not make much sense to me to use a long drying deep penetrating primer when it can not penetrate anything because of the factory coat of primer. I feel like I need more of a bond coat ---Cover Stain---rather than a long drying primer. Needless to mention the price difference and the 24hr drying time before recoat. I also feel like the longevity of the inerior job is in the top coat not so much in the hard top surface formed by the enamel underbody. What do you guys think?

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Kashmir :Thumbs:

slickshift

Enamel Underbody

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

PlainPainter

I feel for exterior applications - there is a world of difference in which primer you spec - but for interiors, I have never had any problems. I always go for the cheapest primer - the only difference maybe coverage. And I definitely agree with you, there is no point to a long drying type primer - it's already primed, you just want to re-prime it. And coverstain is a kick-ass product that doubles as well as an exterior primer - it's a great product. I'd save myself the $10/can and go with coverstain. Heck I have used that product on bare wood - and have had better results than the 'higher' quality enamel undercoaters. I know there must be a time and place for the enamel underbody product - but I have worked on so many crews, even real high quality crews, and not one except for myself has ever attempted to use the enamel undercoaters. Heck - If it was pre-primed, I would spot the nail holes - and then prime the walls and trim with the same product like 100% acrylic fresh start. That will stick great as well.

-plainpainter

chris n

and then prime the walls and trim with the same product like 100% acrylic fresh start. That will stick great as well.

and not smell as bad either!

PlainPainter

Perhaps no mineral spirits smell - but you're still in a world of hurt with ammonia fumes from these 100% acrylic stainkilling primers

-plainpainter

AAPaint

I think he's rolling his eyes about priming with finish paint?!?! That was my guess. I would use the cover stain or even just some bullseye 1-2-3. I wonder how great the bonding is with BM's enamel undercoat having a hard surface.

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-AAPaint

AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.

PlainPainter

Bonding is probably great - but you need an extended 'cure' time to achieve the hardness that a covertain would achieve sooner.

painterofeveryt

I have had great results with benjamin moores super spec enamel undercoater...anyone else love this stuff ? or is it just me ?

Joewho

I love underbody or undercoat. The emphasis is on how the paint will lay and dry on top of it. I think that's why the BM rep recommends it.

Factory primer sucks. But on this new construction job, you should be fine.

Danahy

I use Cover Stain as my all time problem solver, but wouldn't use it in your case. (That's just me).

I've been recently trying to wein myself off of oil, and have found huge success with BM's FreshStart (the one with green writting, not gold), to do a quick lick through, then one coat of top line latex trim. Been working out for me in a super way. The primer dries before I make it to the other side of the room, flows on like butter... Anyhow, the main secret to not making more work by priming is to prime most of the trim, like down the centre, where your trim paint might flash later on ect...

anyhow, that's my 4 cents.

Still a huge fan of Cover Stain, but I usually reserve that for more heavy duty needs.

Kashmir

That sounds like the explenation I've been looking for...My feeling is to use the underbody on surfaces that take a lot of wear and tear (doors, cabinets, etc.) and save the coverstain for rest of trim

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Kashmir :Thumbs:

Kashmir

I would not wonder what's the bonding of BM's best interior oil primer if I was to write anything but questions in this forum.....and your guess is wrong. Looking for ways to be efficient is not always shortcutting. Noone knows it all..Thank God for forums like this

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Kashmir :Thumbs:

AAPaint

Excuse you? What are you trying to say? Who said anyone knows it all?

I do wonder how well BM's undercoater bonds because I don't use BM products.

Is there some sort of issue with what I said? If so, please explain in a fashion that can be understood and I will repsond appropriately.

Yes, these forums are great.

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-AAPaint

AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.

Joewho

I'd love to take credit, but I didn't get the gist of your original post.

What I'm trying to say, is that the BM dealer is recommending the underbody because the hard drying skin of the underbody will make the top coat of paint look awesome. I don't know if the grip of underbody is inferior to the grip of coverstain. But my bet is that it will be excellent in combination with the BM paint. Maybe just ask one more question to find out if the underbody had good grip.

Kashmir, AA wasn't insulting you, he's guessing why chris n is rolling his eyes. He's rolling his eyes in reference to his comment about smelly ammonia. I'm only commenting on this because I take things the wrong way at times also.