Cabinet Spraying

joeb

Im starting to lose sleep now.Im a trim carpenter,I do built-ins and cabinets in my spare time.I will be only spraying cabinets and raised panel doors for the cabinets.I will be spraying stains and clears but latex and oil paint finishes are becoming popular.(impervo waterbourne or alkyd)I have the use of a small shop for now.Im leaning towards HVLP.If i do one project i month that would be alot.I dont own a large compressor and the cost of a hvlp system a can absorb.I know this forum is great but i keep hopping from one foot to the next.Production is not an issue.especially when i just spent 2 days carfully sanding painting, sanding painting 6 raised panel/applied moulding doors.(still came out crapey,flashing, build up on the edges).I would like to keep to one system(different needles?).As most here, I need a flawless finish.HELP

slickshift

You don't want to be coating those anywhere near where you are making them
You don't need a compressor with a real HVLP system
If you are looking at those so-called "HVLP" cup sprayers that hook up to your compressor, you are barking up the wrong tree
You didn't actually ask a question, so that's about all I got for now

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Snow Man

High Volume Low Pressure is the way to go .

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DeanV

Slick, why do you not like the HVLP conversion guns you hook up to a compressor? I have both kinds and usually prefer the compressor except for when I want portability of a turbine. I find I have more control and can get a better finish with the compressor usually, especially if I am using a pressure pot. My turbine is a 3 stage Capspray, fwiw. I do like the turbine for some things, but if I could only have one, it would be a compressor powered gun.

Craft-man

call around to local cabinet shops and find someone that has a spray booth maybe even a nice mixer for stains and see if you can rent or even pay them to do the finishing.

slickshift

Usually (pretty much always) when someone (DIY/not a painter) is referring to those, they mean the HD/W*M DIY pocket-money-removal so-called "HVLP"cup sprayers, and are thinking those are a cheap way to HVLP ("Hey....I already have that honking Husky compressor")
I am, perhaps unfairly, assuming this carpy is referring to those
Those are not what he wants

In fact, as he wants a "flawless finish", my best suggestion would be to farm it out
Seriously, I'm not trying to be a douche
If he really wants to DIY, I'd suggest a few years apprenticing a quality cabinet finisher

It's a little more difficult than Point And Shoot

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

slickshift

Absolutely not worth the time and money investment to purchase and learn the system for this volume

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Traditions2

Am I the only one that has trouble pushing latex through an hvlp? I have a fourstage and i have to dilute the paint way down and it still doesn't flow nice in my opinion. Just tried to spray a mantle this weekend with an hvlp with not much luck. It was proclassic which is thick but I diluted it?

Railman

I totally agree with DeanV!
You don't need a big compressor for a nice spray, if the gun is set up right. For thick materials, you need a smaller spray pattern, the smaller the better. Another big plus is to either use a pot, or at least a gun with a pressurized cup. With a pressurized fluid feed, you don't need to thin, unless it's cold. Then you can either thin a little, or heat up the paint a little.

Half the pattern area = 1/2 the air volume (cfm's). Along with pressurized feed, this is the biggest trick in using a small compressor. I've been using Binks Mach 1 HVLP's for about 15 years with great success in my shop, without any thinning.
Joe

Snow Man

check your tip sizes . means alot.

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Traditions2

what size needle for heavy latex?

Snow Man

For airless sprayers..............................

SPRAY PATTERN PROBLEMFor aiSUse this guide to diagnose spray pattern problems.
Many problems can be solved with a good cleaning and a fresh tip of the right size. Problem - Tails in Pattern
Cause
Inadequate Fluid Delivery
Fluid not atomizing
Remedy
Increase fluid pressure
Change to a small tip orifice
Reduce fluid viscosity
Clean gun & filters
Reduce number of guns using pumpProblem - Distorted Pattern
Cause
Plugged or worn tip
Remedy
Clean or replace nozzle tipProblem - Hour Glass Pattern
Cause
Inadequate Fluid Delivery
Remedy
Increase fluid pressure
Change to a larger tip orifice
Reduce fluid viscosity
Clean gun & filters
Reduce number of guns using pumpProblem - Pattern expanding & contracting
Cause
Pulsating fluid delivery
Suction leak
Remedy
Change to a smaller orifice
Reduce number of guns using pump
Remove restrictions in system
Clean filters and screens
Inspect pick up tube for leak
Increase air supply to air motor

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Snow Man

http://www.northerntool.com/download...ts/4519990.pdf

for hvlp latex spray ..................

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sprayer48

hey railman.

I have always used my titan 440i with a graco gun and 208 fine finish tip.

I just purchased a capspray 9100 on e-bay for 145.00. I didn't get a gun with it. Can you or anyone give me some advise on which gun to look for.
I normally spray sw super paint or other semi-gloss for interior trim.
anyone with some advise ?

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Railman

Sprayer48,
I assume the Capspray is a turbine unit? If so, you might check out the Wagner gun. It's price very reasonable, & seems to be very popular with a lot of painters. It has a variable tip/nozzle that the spray pattern can be changed just by turning a knob.
Joe

sprayer48

hey railman,
thanks for the response. appreciate the advise.
Sorry I didn't include enough info. Yes the capspray 9100 is a 4 stage turbine unit.

have a question though, I looked at the wagner line and I'm not sure what gun you were referring to. Can you plz be more specific.

thanks.
mark

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