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05-03-2007, 11:22 PM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
general contractor/ remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orange County, Ca.
Posts: 1,938
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Best primer for bare pine and/or raw drywall?
What is the best primer to use on raw pine and raw drywall?...If it is oil based, is there a good water based alternative? I want to use an airless and would rather not spray oil if I can avoid it. If I can't it's not the end of the world. I searched and surprisingly got no matches to my thread title.
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I was in the wrong place at the wrong time
For the wrong reason and the wrong rhyme
On the wrong day of the wrong week
I used the wrong method with the wrong technique
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05-04-2007, 06:50 AM
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#2
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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It depends
If the pine is knotty, yeah you'll need oil for that
If it's clear, then latex would be OK
Personally I like Pittsburgh's Speed Hide Primer/Sealer for new drywall
Ben Moore's Fresh Start for pine (oil or latex depending)
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Signature Quote
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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05-04-2007, 11:25 AM
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#3
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Pro
Trade:
general contractor/ remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orange County, Ca.
Posts: 1,938
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Thanks Slick. I,ve been told I should use a seperate hose for my airless for oil based products. Do you agree with this, or do I just need to flush mine out properly?
__________________
I was in the wrong place at the wrong time
For the wrong reason and the wrong rhyme
On the wrong day of the wrong week
I used the wrong method with the wrong technique
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05-04-2007, 11:49 AM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,376
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Somebody here mentioned putting a waterproof glue like Titebond II on knots to prevent bleed through. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but it sounds like a solid idea. Lately I've switched to BM's Fresh Start Penetrating Primer, it's a sure cure for cedar bleed.
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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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05-04-2007, 02:38 PM
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#5
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Cabinetmaker
Trade:
Cabinetmaker
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Netcong, NJ
Posts: 670
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I have been told that good ole shellac over the knots,ect seals em for good
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05-04-2007, 03:06 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
general contractor/ remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orange County, Ca.
Posts: 1,938
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I love this site....It makes everyone better at their job...Thanks everyone.
still could use advice about the airless hose. Oil and water through same hose...or buy a seperate one?
__________________
I was in the wrong place at the wrong time
For the wrong reason and the wrong rhyme
On the wrong day of the wrong week
I used the wrong method with the wrong technique
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05-04-2007, 05:21 PM
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#7
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painterofeverything
Trade:
residential painter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: gaylord, MI.
Posts: 425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by send_it_all
I love this site....It makes everyone better at their job...Thanks everyone.
still could use advice about the airless hose. Oil and water through same hose...or buy a seperate one?
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same hose,just flush it well ,very well (this is not lacquer so its not going to loosen all the crap in your line.
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05-04-2007, 05:48 PM
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#8
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by send_it_all
I,ve been told I should use a seperate hose for my airless for oil based products. Do you agree with this, or do I just need to flush mine out properly?
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Yes...2 hoses is best. Why take a chance (which could turn into a very expensive one) if you can avoid problems with simply having 2 separate hoses?
As far as the primer:
Oil based if it is a wood that bleeds, typcially harder woods-SW Problock Oil based (they make an odorless as well...it still smells a bit)
Latex for pine - I use SW preprite problock
Zinsser BIN for knots-2 to 3 coats
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Rich
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05-04-2007, 05:52 PM
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#9
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My custom title
Trade:
Painting, faux, rock, plaster, texture, tile, laminates, finish carpentry contractor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 1,559
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Bah... I don't really like swapping back and forth my machines from oil to water just due to the expense of cleaning them, however... haven't had a problem doing so in 30+ years.
Agree with the really knotty oil, flat sheetrock? I prime with the cheapest there is then sand all the hairs.. go from there.... if it's textured I sorta like BM's undercoat.
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Benn
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Originally Posted by Brian
Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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