BEHR Paint Problem Please Advise

GoodPainter

I think you need to file a lawsuit againt the manufacture.

I really hope you get your problem solved.

I will never use Behr

The few times I have in the past -every single time there was a problem.

How about painting flat over flat-finished the room, turned around and the
whole wall was running like a waterfall.
Never seen that ever happen and most people say its impossible
Flat over Flat.

Sorry about your problems but back out of this Behr deal before your
business ventures become a catastrophe.

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Paintpimp

Sorry, I just had to make that last comment. [quote=api11296;417684]We used the primer the BEHR tells us to use, Behr K-10 White base and we tinted it the wall color. Shewin Williams Camel Back, a darker color. I can't find any info on this primer, being that is says white base. Is it a primer? Not sure.

Yes, the pattern is associated with our spray pattern. However, when we finished spraying it was so even that you can see a reflection, just like a mirror, it looks like a sheet of glass when wet. That's called wet hide.
Totally different than dry hideI have video of myself and my spray guy spraying because BEHR told me it was something we were doing wrong. What was the square footage and how much product did you use on the first coat? How much if any did you overlap?

It is not my gun or nozzle or spray rig. During my testing we used two different rigs made by two different manufactures, at different preasures, and so on. All to the same result. Not always the sprayer, product and the applicator have as much influence. Were the edges heavy as you sprayed?

The primer was applied in the same manner as the paint, Same Direction?to achieve an even wet coat, and it too looked perfect when wet. Again, wet hide doesn't mean squat. It's dry hide.

One day was given between each coat on the test ceilings. Test? The third floor sat over 7 days with just one coat of primer and one coat of flat paint and I repainted it myself. I sprayed it length ways and now the lines are long ways down the room with a cross hatch sort of pattern coming through underneath. What kind of texture? Still sounds like not a good sealing primer maybe.

The bathrooms are eggshell paint and have one coat of primer and one coat of eggshell. There were three days of dry time between the primer and the eggshell and the splotchy effect is worst in these areas. These walls were completely dry. Did you backroll at all?

QUESTION FOR EVERYONE:

I am using BEHR paint because the coporation that owns my company also owns BEHR and opened this shop to use BEHR. I have never had this experience with any other type of paint. Sigh, Once again, sorry to hear that.

The pastel base that I am using to tint this particular color has a lot of C colorant in it. Have you ever experienced issues with a finish because of colorant. Yes I have, if the colorant is not agitated properly and kept in suspension (daily agitated) the colorant in the paint will not disperse accurately and ultimately disperse and change the color as it is atomized through the sprayer or cut and rolled. Colorant particualry takes a very long time to dry, we have our own tint machine and the colorant takes days to dry out in a scooped out container, Colorant HAS to be agitated frequently. where paint is mere minutes to a couple of hours in comparison.

I noticed that when the paint was in our spray bin that the colorant was sort of separating from the paint, could it have done the same thing on the walls? Yes and no, you can have light tint float. But if it is excessive it is due to what I mentioned above. We box all of our paint together prior to spraying it on the walls to avoid touch-up problems. It was thouroughly shaken a day before we sprayed and boxed immediately prior to application.

With all of the different things we have tried, I know that it is not how or what we used to put the paint on with.Don't be too quick with that. Our methods are proven and the initial wet surface perfect. The issue must have something to to with the product or the dry wall. Highly doubt that its the drywall. Product or application ,99% probability.

I am letting this house sit while they get their cabinets and wood beams in. It has been over a week since we applied our last coat to the first and second floor ceilings. Most of the walls and ceilings have sat since the day we finish coated them.What happened to the 5-7 coats you mentioned? [/quote]

Double check the primer issue. Triple check the colorant problem. Camelback is a dark color. I know that the yellow colorant can be a bugger to deal with. Hope I helped a little.

Faron79

Sorry to say this, but the only thing that could produce this effect is "heavy edges" when spraying.
* I'm not familiar with that particular primer number.
* Our store used to have Behr...we weren't a Home Depot though!
* That Pastel base still has a lot of White in it. Of the 4 tint-bases, the Pastel-base has almost as much TI02 as the White-base.
* I'm very familiar with the C colorant...Yellow-Oxide. The most used colorant. It's pretty opaque.
* The other "yellow" colorants are more transparent...AX (bright yellow), & T (medium yellow) are more transparent....BUT, in the pastel base, it's irrelevant, because there's still a lot of white present. Plus, TI02 has good hide, unless sprayed/rolled too thin.
* Our auto-tinters keep colorant mixed every couple hours. Our manual-tinter needs to be turned on via switch to start the stirring-motor.
* Wall-banding "isn't/can't be" caused by colorant problems.

Yep, Masco owns a LOT of other companies...
* Behr-Process: makers of Behr paint.
* Masterchem: makes the Kilz stuff.
* Many others, such as...
American Shower & Bath, Arrow fasteners, Delta-Faucet, Kraftmaid cabinetry, Merrillat doors & windows, Peerless Faucets, Watkins manuf. corp., etc., etc.

Faron

Jonesey

We had the same problem with Duration. It caused a ripple sheen effect when sprayed over PVA primer. SW guy paid for the paint to run it again, but even rolling it still didn' help. We had to sand it and hand roll 2 coats of A700, then roll 2 coats of PM 200 eggshell. Came out fine.

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api11296

When I get to my home PC I will add more pictures and vids that show the problems better.

Picture 1 is of the first floor ceiling after Primer, Paint, SW, Prep Coat, Behr. If look closely you can see the shiny flat effect.

Picture 2 is of the third floor master bedroom wall. Look very closely and you can see the shadows that go top to bottom. They are not shadows. This is how the entire house.

Attached Images

  

tsunamicontract

just say its a faux finish and charge more.

boman47k

Curious, what was the final solution?

OCRS

I had a similar situation in the sense that I was using Behr ceiling paint and getting stripes or areas that looked unpainted. The second last time (5 in total) I had 3 of us, 50% overlap to each other and progressive rows. Same problem.
The only thing I could come up with was the housekeeper jacked up the thermostat everymorning to 25 celcius and the paint was flash drying at ceiling level (probably 29, 30 degrees up there) and that Behr was crap.
I ended up waiting until the next day, droping the thermo to 18 and coating with glidden high hide wall paint. It coulda used a 2nd of that but it was good enough.

Bertram33

Never mix brands, stick with the same family. Behr primers are designed for Behr products.

RayGoerdt

I know this is a very old post, but just to add my two bits worth...

After the second coat displayed this effect, I would roll a test area using the same paint and see what happens.

Next I would also like to know how this all turned out.

Thanks

Cole82

It is the up and down in your stroke. The roller leaves a grain when you roll up the grain flows up. Then you roll down the grain flows down. Roll up or down not both. Found this out with Behr paint. Switched to pittsburg and don't have to do that now. It flows together much better.

WisePainter

You used "Behr".

Where is the mystery here?





man this is some old thread right here yah.

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My advice: Hire a real painter to do it.

WisePainter

Dude, I hope that is some seriously stealthy sarcasm that I somehow missed...

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My advice: Hire a real painter to do it.

Cole82

Straight from Pittsburg paint rep. It's what he told me to do or go over it with there product. I did and it worked man trust me it was the only thing that worked for that paint.

boman47k

You mean on the last roll, right? I always roll an area then make a downward stroke on the last pass with any paint I am using.

Cole82

Yes the finish stoke.

boman47k

The last time I pai...tried to paint with Behr, I had trouble getting it to cover itself. I have used it twice I think. I have never used it on anyone elses property. I have lost a job partly because I did not want to use Behr paint a lady already had. I was not too disappointed.
I do find it to be a little different animal.

chris n

I do find it to be a little different animal.

You could say that again!

Burby

I may have missed reading if anyone suggested or asked if the paint rep was not called to inspect th problem.
Doing this after the discovery of the problem and a few minutes spent to make sure it wasn't something in the spray rig, calling in the rep could have earnt you some xtra money if problem was indeed the paint or the drywall. Over the years I have been paid by both, SW paid me over $1400 on one job and drywall manufacturer paid for oil primer and labor to spray an entire interior of a house to seal the drywall when determined to be the ingredients in the drywall bleeding thru.
We all eat to much money, even if a dollar if caused by worker error, but when there is a strong possibility it could be from product failure it is good to collect payment from those responsible. All products have a mark up in them to cover these potential problems.
Even the best can have a problem.

Hope it all worked out well, how ever resolved.

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ccarlisle

Got that right...at the end of the day, it's all subjective since there are no real criteria for establishing a quality paint, that we have access to, that is. Someone mentioned 'solids'...well maybe but 'solids' is an easy parameter to alter.

All we can go by is the experiences of several pros on this and other forums, guys who use various brands and have enough experience using them in different situations. I stay away from Behr only for that reason.

Having said that, doing one bedroom and having it work out 'OK' for the average consumer is not really conclusive one way or the other IMO