lornmastro

i have to bid out a job for a bathroom....and am not to sure what is going on with this ceiling/how to rectify. 80% of the ceiling is chipping...its bad. looks like its NOT down to the sheetrock...looks like its down to the last paint job....the bathroom is used by 2 teenage girls and it has no bathroom fan..never any wallpaper on the ceiling...i am assuming it has to do with the moisture absorbed into the ceiling.am i right is it about the moisture??? and if its about water should i be doing the following to rectify 1-scraping the loose chips off 2-priming it with an slow dry oil based primer 3-repairing with joint compound 4- repriming with a latex primer 5-paint with a latex paint(and should i use a flat ceiling paint?or will that just cause it to chip again?) and lastly should indicate to the customer that i will not guarentee the ceiling will not continue to chip from the last paint job??or is this a job i just want to walk away from?? p.s. its also happening in the other bathroom but not as badly only near the shower stall.thanks for your help

Humble Abode

The oil based seems like an unnecessary step to me. Latex prime patch and prime again would be OK. I would also use at least a semi-gloss. And add a mildewcide to the paint (of course your patch job will have to be top notch). I don't see why you couldn't guarantee it after that.

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slickshift

I'd agree
I would also suggest using Zinsser's Perma-White for the ceiling
Semi would be fine, but the Eggshell is pretty flat and just as effective for resisting mildew as the semi...which is to say un-believable

And no additive would be needed

Two teenage girls and no fan, I don't think I'd use anything but Perma-White

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ProWallGuy

I disagree with the 2 fine painters above me. I would do as exactly how you put it. Especially the slow dry oil based primer. Only thing I would change is your step 4, I'd reprime with the same slow drying long oil primer. Then lightly sand and 2 coat with latex satin or semi gloss. Reason being is that a 2nd prime w/latex would not be as impervious to moisture as the oil would. I don't want any moisture getting to that mud. I would gurantee that job.

And yeah, the Perma-White would be ideal for this.

MHO

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slickshift

Why the slow-dry oil Skipper?

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ProWallGuy

The slow dry has time to penetrate the surface, and really grip/bond well. The quick dry (kilz, QD30) dry too fast to be able to penetrate before it dries. Especially on peeling, flaky, problem areas, I want maximum adhesion. Plus, the long oils go on at a thicker mil than quick dry meaning harder for moisture to penetrate. Only downside is a loooooong dry time before recoating. You can thank the EPA/VOC for that.

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slickshift

Makes sense
Thanks!

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lornmastro

thanks for all the great replys!!zinssers perma white??? is this product flat/satin/semi and what would make it a good choice for the bathroom?? does sw or bm sell it??need an education on this product..also do you think the problem with that ceiling was probubly the moisture??thanks

DeanV

I still would not guarantee it unless you can remove the entire layer of paint that is peeling. Often in bathrooms people painted over oil paint without proper prep, and if you do not get it all off now, it will come off with time on its own, especially in a bathroom.

slickshift

No flat but the eggshell is pretty flat....really flat compared to BM eggshell

A bathroom or kitchen can be eggshell, satin, or semi
Probably satin or semi
The eggshell is pretty flat so if they really want flat it's OK

Self priming (but you'll still need primer in your case), highly wash-able, highly mold/mildew resistant paint

Only tintable in light or pastel colors

Local paint shop, BM dealer, I think even SWP has it
Lots of hardware stores even

Here's the site:
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=35

Really, I personally had a tiny bathroom and two womens (one teen) that loved long hot showers....and no fan.....and the washing machine in the bathroom...next to the living room.....so the door was always closed

I was X-14ing (mildecide) once a month
It was nasty
Really-if I let it go 6 weeks it took over

And X-14ing the ceiling, even a small one, is not fun


Did the Z's P-W, didn't ever have to X-14 again (well, two years then I moved out)

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Woz the Painter

After complete prep and patch, would prime with exterior 100% acrylic latex primer, then two finish coats of gloss esther epoxy, the steam and moisture would run and hide from such a kick ass finish. Plus you and the people your working for would get an incredible buzz!

PlainPainter

I use to think it was ok to use a quick dry primer for these conditions. In my sis' bathroom - we took off the wallpaper to reveal 50 year old veneer plaster. Although I always use a 100% acrylic primer for plaster when new - when old I switch to an oil primer. I used Ace's Stain Halting primer - solvent based. Then topcoated with Muralo's Ultra Eggshell paint. And due to high moisture, the paint has cracked in a couple of locations and the paint film has lifted and curled, bringing the primer coat with it right down to the plaster. Maybe two coats of primer would have worked - or one oil and topcoated with one latex.

I do know that in my bathroom which is just sheetrock with joint compound - the builder put on cheap flat paint with no primer - and it eventually cracked and peeled everywhere due to high moisture. So I scraped everything, joint compound repaired - and then sanded everything thoroughly - then painted everything with B.M. aquaglo.
A year later same chipping and peeling - but where I spot primed with an all purpose interior/exterior 100% acrylic primer - the paint is still in great shape.

-plainpainter

Woz the Painter

Go with the gloss epoxy, its impenatrable!

lornmastro

thanks all for the great advice...just love this forum

ApgarNJ

make sure the drywall isn't damaged from taking on so much moisture. have them put in a bathroom fan, no fan only breeds mold above it, and in the walls. i'm no painter, but if it were me, i'd be either taking down the old wet drywall, and putting up new sheets. it'll probably be faster than scraping and prepping the flaky ceiling the way it is now.
jmo

Woz the Painter

Epoxy.....

brian11973

My 2$ worth. I am Just a sparky. I friend of mine has a duplex. Can not keep the paint on the ceiling in the baths. Built in 1948, Plaster on drywall lath. He keeps putting "crackshot" on with latex paint. I say it is too much moisture. Needs beter ventilation, nothing will hold, wih the water.