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Old 04-05-2007, 05:46 PM   #1
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bare interior trim

How extensive do you guys go with sanding bare interior trim before priming? It's new construction. All holes will be filled and sanded but the rest of trim is really smooth and clean. The primer will raise the grain of the wood so apparently I'll sand between coats. I am just trying to avoid the initial sanding of the entire surface if possible without jeoperdazing the primer adhesion and paint longevity. Is there such a thing as "mill glaze on interior trim"?

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Old 04-05-2007, 07:00 PM   #2
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With new construction pricing being what it is...
I have never sanded bare wood trim before priming..(in new construction)
you have to cut as many corners as you possibly can without taking away too much quality. Yes sand in between coats, but unless there is a defect
in the wood..just dust/ wipe it and paint(or spray if your smart).
P.S you didn't here it from me.
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Old 04-05-2007, 07:44 PM   #3
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that's exactly what was on my mind
pricing sucks these days
thank you
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Old 04-05-2007, 07:56 PM   #4
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Tell me if I am wrong. I generally tell my clients to sand their trim with a 220 grit before staining/painting to remove any surface grime and to open up the wood so it will except primer. Most of the interior trim that we use has almost a glossy surface from the milling. Last year I played around with some in my shop and found that the primer tends to stick to the surface if the surface is glossy. The stuff I tried it on was 2.5" colonial molding from blowes.
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:27 PM   #5
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Yes, I agree... but with new construction there is not that much room for
the type of prep that goes into a residential "high end" prep job. you goto pick and choose your time wisely.... unless they pay OUR prices.
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:34 PM   #6
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what about the surface that's almost glossy from the milling..?how well will primer stick to it and for how long?I am using SH ProBlock interior oil primer (it's similar to Coverstain). My only fear was that if not sanded the paint won't adhere to the surface in the long run...I am still afraid something similar to mill glaze paint failure might happen
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Old 04-06-2007, 06:43 AM   #7
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All my trim comes pre-primed and ready for paint, so I might not be talking about the same stuff you are.
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Old 04-06-2007, 06:48 AM   #8
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I posted this topic on a different message board - and everyone there was like - if you are a professional, you must sand bare wood prior to priming. I have never heard or seen this practice in real life. Millglaze on interior prime trim? Come on - who the heck sands exterior wood prior to priming? I was taught to use a good quality Oil primer - that will soak into the grain, and raise it - allowing you to sand back down to a level surface. If I did anything I might use Wilbond New wood prep, but that would be the extent of what I do. I have never seen Coverstain applied directly to interior trim that failed - NEVER! It soaks right in! Sometimes it looks like you need a second coat. Now perhaps you have all these guys going over to use these new Latex Enamel undercoaters - perhaps in that case you need to do extra stages of prep - maybe there is failure and more sensitivity to 'millglaze' - although personally never seen in it either in real life. I am dumbfounded by this practice - krikes - I will never land any bids if I did this. And oh - what was the comment someone told me....even if you are slow - how long would it take to sand down a door - three minutes......well, if you only spent 3 minutes sanding a door prior to priming, you didn't get anything accomplished IMO - so why bother?
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:33 AM   #9
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In 27 years of painting I have never heard of anyone sanding bare wood before a primer is applied, we always use oil base under coater then sand then caulk and fill nail holes then oil base enamel.
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Old 04-06-2007, 11:42 AM   #10
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ben moores waterborne enamel under coater (super spec line) great stuff if your in a hurry also !
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Old 04-06-2007, 04:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougchips View Post
Tell me if I am wrong. I generally tell my clients to sand their trim with a 220 grit before staining/painting to remove any surface grime and to open up the wood so it will except primer. Most of the interior trim that we use has almost a glossy surface from the milling. Last year I played around with some in my shop and found that the primer tends to stick to the surface if the surface is glossy. The stuff I tried it on was 2.5" colonial molding from blowes.
You are right.Sanding bare wood before priming is needed for penetration if it has mill glaze.
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Old 04-06-2007, 06:39 PM   #12
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When I see glazy trim, why do I think moisture?
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:47 PM   #13
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moisture like milling can force resins to the surface

Last edited by rws; 04-06-2007 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:52 PM   #14
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wrong link

Last edited by rws; 04-07-2007 at 04:36 PM.
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