Application advice? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

gcajnr21 · 05-02-2006, 03:56 PM

im painting a house that has a solidstain on it(dark blue), it is chalky and flaking off. Wood is cedar. How should i paint this?

Here is what i was going to do:

1. Powerwash, wait 4 days then 1 coat prime A100 then 2 topcoats superpaint.

or,

2. Power wash, wait 4 days then 2 coats Duration.

Any Comments?

**slickshift** · 05-02-2006, 05:11 PM

phinsher · 05-02-2006, 05:17 PM

To me it really depends on just how bad its peeling. Both of your potential plans should work, but I'd do a little sraping and sanding after powerwashing. You might wanna invest a $100 in a moisture meter. Sometimes wood looks dry but isn't dry. Cedar and redwood hold moisture longer than some other woods.

Might not be a bad idea to re-coat them with solid color latex stain. My understanding is the solid latex stains allow the siding to breathe a little better than oil primers and paint.

AAPaint · 05-02-2006, 06:31 PM

Strip and re-stain? I dunno how it'll work out with a solid stain, but I'm stripping a cedar house now to re-stain here in a few days. The one I'm doing has a VERY old, failing oil based stain on it....I should say had, because it's raw cedar now. Or, you could try a percarbonate cleaner followed by another solid stain....

gcajnr21 · 05-02-2006, 09:08 PM

Why would i want strip and re-stain it? Stain only last like 5-7 yrs max who are yall guys kiddin. Why cant i Put latex paint over it Like I said in my above post?

**slickshift** · 05-02-2006, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

...I dunno how it'll work out with a solid stain...

Seriously, that's our go-to process up here

Like phinsher says the latex solid stain is the go-to fixer-upper if there's any hint of moisture
I like the oil-based for just about any other problem

It may be a regional thing

Like I've heard that latex paints can work out better on decks in the hot southern sun
Up here, an oil-based solid stain will kick it's butt for longevity
(one year vs. three)

Like your cedar house, that'd be a solid stain for sure, no hesitation, no questions asked
I'd say oil w/o blinking
If I saw signs of internal moisture (from the house not breathing properly-attic and soffits "winterized" by sealing is common here) maybe I'd go latex

gcajnr21 · 05-02-2006, 09:27 PM

Well i live in OKC, OK. It gets pretty hot in the summer and the cedar looks really dry i see no signs of moisture. The stain on the house is like 7yr old and is just fading off. Its not peeling its just fading and coming off barley on the edge-corner of the planks.

Everyone round here uses latex paints not stains. Why cant i use latex paint like Duration? Why do i have to use a Stain?

AAPaint · 05-02-2006, 09:55 PM

I meant, if it's a failed oil stain, you can easily restore the wood back to it's natural beauty, but it may not strip perfectly with a solid stain...anyway. Why wouldn't you strip it, brighten it, and re-stain it? Does the customer not like their cedar anymore?

A quality stain will last around 3 years tops unless it's maintained properly. Maintaining the job once it's done is called residual income. The right stain will penetrate deep into the wood and protect it from moisture, mildew, UV, and everything else. Instead of covering up that beatiful wood forever, why not make it look like new and knock their socks off all the while getting DOUBLE what you would to paint it? Exterior wood restoration is one of my specialties, and I see dollar signs with something like this. You can get far more money for a "restoration" project than you can a "paint job"..

Strip the old stain with a sodium hydroxide stripper, brighten with either citric or oxacilic acid and the wood will look like new. Protect it with a quality oil based stain (which may have to be a solid again because of the color that's on there now) Solid stains are harder to strip, but if it's completely fading and wasting away it won't be so bad.

This is not my photo, it's just one I found, but why wouldn't you want to do THIS:

**slickshift** · 05-02-2006, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

Does the customer not like their cedar anymore?

It's a blue solid stain now

**slickshift** · 05-02-2006, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

This is not my photo, it's just one I found, but why wouldn't you want to do THIS:

....I got nuthin after the "THIS:" AA
No link or anything...

(lol)

gcajnr21 · 05-02-2006, 10:58 PM

Oh yeah i would restore the cedar if it was a natural cedar stain color ,but its dark blue and their is dark blue stain on the caulk and brick. Dont think the home owners want to spend 20 thousand to restore. ok back to my Question?

Thanks for the input guys

AAPaint · 05-03-2006, 06:55 AM

OK! Back to your question. Pressure wash the thing, wait 3-4 days, then TEST with a moisture meter......make sure it's below 12% moisture. Either superpaint or duration will work great, depends on which one the customer wants to spring for. There's about $10 difference per gallon. If you use the Duration, you shouldn't need a primer, but I would still prime a surface that's previously stained on an exterior regardless what duration says.

Hey slick, you don't see the pic?

**slickshift** · 05-03-2006, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAPaint

Hey slick, you don't see the pic?

Nope, nuttin', nada, bupkiss, nien, non, negatory good buddy catch ya on the flip side slickshift out we gone

phinsher · 05-03-2006, 10:21 AM

The reason I brought up the option of using a stain is beacuse its a little more tolerant of moisture compared to an oil based primer and paint. But IMO you can coat it with just about anything as long as ya follow the munufactures reccomendations.