Leo G

What I was most surprised about was there intercoat sanding recommendation of 220 grit paper. I find that 320 is almost to aggressive when sanding in between coats.

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON. http://lrgwood.com

Cache

Their recommendation is BS. I use 320 sponges for the curved surfaces and 400 on a sponge block for the flats. 240 grit leaves swirls like crazy. They also say to apply basecoat/toner before the sealer. If I did that I would burn through a ton of toner which costs a fortune. Every cab finisher I know does sealer first on paint grade.

Leo G

That is almost the same as white wood sanding with MLC. They say to never go above 150 grit and recommend 120. This is for stained surfaces. All they are doing is CYA, 150 grit is still in the rough sanding stages. The say this is for adhesion guaranties. I bet you could sand to 800 grit and still have no problems. 120 grit is way to low for a stained finish, 150 is just acceptable and 220 is where it should be for a compromise between smoothness and speed for labor savings. But I do like the fact I don't need to do 220, it saves a lot of time and it is what they recommend

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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON. http://lrgwood.com

Leo G

My usual procedure is to stain, then tone (if needed/required - usually a 4:4:1 ratio of lac:thin:dye) then two top coats. Gives you a good depth, nice clarity and ability to adjust variations in color easily.

__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON. http://lrgwood.com

Frankawitz

Leo,
The way the door was standing you could not see the grain but once the door was in place you could see it real nice I just didn't take a picture of it, I will go by there and snap a picture sometime this weekend. as for shellac I did their garage door the same way, and the garage door was painted over about thirty coats of paint, as for shellac as a finish never, I use Spar Marine Varnish this house is two block from the lake, As for the Peel Away it worked out great, it took all the paint off in one application. The other thing is when I restore doors like this it's all T&M and I take my time. I am not into speed when it comes to these type of projects.



www.frankawitz.net

nailkiller1

so far so good
distressed pine
wiped on stain with sponge
next day sponge on coat polyurethane
next day sand everything palm sander 1 time real quick 220 then sanding block 320 to finish to smooth
vaccum everything
tack rag sponge on last coat poly
very nice flat finish first time i have done it that way
good results
good prep is key
thanks again
now the easy part install

MZ-HANDYMAN

First of all. MASK ANYTHING YOU DON'T WANT STAINED! There are many ways to apply your stain. you can use an airless sprayer on a lower setting, Compressor with a "conventional" spray gun set at around 60 LBS of Pressure. (Mine is a BINKS MODEL 7 I've been using for 30 years) You can use a PUMP SPRAYER (Like the ones for insecticide), You can use a brush or rags (Wear rubber gloves)

There is no "BEST FINISH" there is just the finish you want to have in the end. If you want it darker you may have to stain it more than once. If you want it lighter you will have to wipe it with a clean cloth right after applying the stain till the desired finish is acheived.

FYI: I didn't read any of the previous responses I just quoted your question and answered with my advice.

Sorry, If I repeated anyone elses info!

MZ-HANDYMAN