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Old 12-03-2006, 05:32 PM   #1
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The 8 Steps of Painting

Hello all
I have been trying to grow my painting biz for 2 years now but have been having trouble finding employees. I usually try to hire a few painters, then after a few weeks I get frustrated and go back to just me and one other painter. Anyways, I read "The E-myth Revisited" a few months back and it got me thinking. I think I'm ready to try a few more roller jockeys out only this time I will try to make painters. I have a well written 20 page "Company Handbook" that lists all our policies but I wanted something for the more technical side of the business. Today I began writing "The 8 Steps of Painting" to simplify things for all new employees. To all you pros out there, is there any steps/tips I should be sure to include? This is more focused on residential repaints, should I write one for new construction? Your feedback is greatly appreciated. I was going to post what I have written so far but there is too much and I don't know how to insert a file. Thanks

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Old 12-03-2006, 05:52 PM   #2
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...

Last edited by streetracer; 12-03-2006 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:54 PM   #3
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Interesting...



1. Show up on time... (most think that just because there is no "time-clock" they can show up 10-15 min late)... and still call it on time on there time card....

2. Clean clothes AND good hygiene...

3. Show up with OWN TOOLS...

Those are at the top of my list...

Those are probably listed in your handbook???...

not sure exactly what you are looking for... for "technical" things..BUT...
off the top of my head...

1. Plan your day (what needs to be done)
2. Set up
3. prep
4. prime
5. paint
6. Quality Inspection
7. Clean up
8. Drink Beer

What "technical" things are you looking for???
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Old 12-03-2006, 07:16 PM   #4
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I think you are going to need more then 8
I started thinking about it and got almost to 8 in prep
Haven't got to "open can of paint" yet....that's still a way off
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Old 12-03-2006, 07:26 PM   #5
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I have a process that I follow when I hire someone.

First, they talk to my office manager. If they pass her muster, she will schedule an appointment.

Second, they must show up on time for the appointment with me, or they are done.

Third, they fill out an application and my office manager reviews it. If they pass that, then I will interview them.

Fourth, if they seem worth of consideration, I tell them I want to see their work. I have several old doors and windows in my warehouse. If they have their tools with them, they get to go paint. If they don't, we set another appointment.

Fifth, if they can prep and paint the door/ window with reasonable skill, I offer them a position. However, before they get to step foot on a job they must attend 2 4-hour training sessions.

This process does take time, and may not work for everyone, but it weeds out those who won't cut it. I see if they can show up on time, and they have at least 3 or 4 chances to blow it.

Slow to hire, quick to fire.

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Old 12-03-2006, 08:32 PM   #6
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And how well do you pay them? Insurance? overtime? Paid holidays?

Heck, I might apply.
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Old 12-03-2006, 08:49 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JMGP View Post
8. Drink Beer
I can't believe I overlooked possably the most important step!

This is what I have so far:

The following are some general painting steps and practices that we would like used by the employees of PrecisionPainting.
Please note: Due to the variables involved from one paint job to the next, each painter must apply his own judgement with respect to the steps and general painting procedures listed below. Communication with the supervisor is very important, it can correct a small problem before it becomes a big problem.

“Remember, the only “Dumb” question is the one that is never asked.”


The 8 Steps of Painting


Step 1 - Moving and covering furniture
First thing is deciding which rooms to paint first. Which rooms are most convenient for the customer? Which rooms are more difficult? How many rooms per day (or whatever timeframe decided) can be painted and put back together? Which room or area can be used to store your tools throughout the job?
Once this is decided you can proceed to move furniture to the middle of the room. If possible the furniture should be lifted, not slid across a floor to prevent any accidental scratches or dents. Switch plates can then be removed. Please put the switch plates AND SCREWS in a safe area where they can easily be located when they are being put back on. Light fixtures can be lowered or removed making them easier to paint around.
You can now cover the furniture with lightweight plastic. Make sure the furniture is completely covered and use tape if need be. Cover all floors completely with drop clothes. Try to keep the proper side of the drop clothe up at all times. The drop clothe should be marked “This side up”


Step 2 - Patching and filling
All loose and flaking paint will be removed by scraping and/ or sanding. Any wallpaper would be removed and washed with TSP at this point.
Any cracks, nail holes, loose tape, etc. would now be filled with some type of joint compound. If the customer is available, you might ask if there is anything specific that they want filled.
When the fill is completely dry it can be sanded and the dust vacuumed up. If there is going to be excessive sanding, any openings should be sealed of with plastic to prevent the dust from travelling throughout the house.
All the trim can be sanded.


Step 3 - Priming and caulking
Decide what primer is best suited for the area ( latex primer, oil primer, BIN, etc.) and apply starting with the ceiling, then the walls, then the trim.
After the primer is completely dry you can then caulk around the trim, baseboards, crown melding, etc.


Step 4 - Painting ceilings
You can now apply paint to the ceilings starting with trimming around any fixtures, then trimming around the outside. After the trimming is finished you can roll the ceiling. Please roll as close to the wall as possible without hitting it. Always roll away from the largest window to help prevent flashing. Never stop halfway through a ceiling. Apply a second coat if needed.


Step 5 - Painting doors and casings
You can now apply paint to the doors and casings. Your brush should follow the wood grain or imaginary wood grain and brush out any brush marks.
Try to paint the casings then the doors so the casings will be dry when you begin the walls.


Step 6 - Painting the walls
Be sure to pole sand the walls before applying topcoat. Usually start painting walls behind the door to work your way out of a room. Paint one wall at a time, trimming completely and then rolling. Do not get any roller lines.
If you get paint on a plug, wipe it with a rag. If you hit the ceiling with the roller, leave it. You can go back later and touch it up.
You may pole sand the walls again before the second topcoat depending on how rough they are. Do not use a brand new sleeve when applying finish coat as the hairs will come out on the wall.
After the finish coat on the walls have dryed you can then paint the baseboards.

Step 7 - Clean up
When cleaning up latex brushes and rollers at the customers house, first ask for a laundry sink. If there is not one available, use the outside hose unless it is winter. In that case you can ask to use the kitchen sink but be very clean. Place a drop clothe next to the sink to place your wet tools on. Be sure to thoroughly wipe around the sink when you are finished.
Always clean oil brushes and rollers outside. Never pour oil cleaners into the earth. Pour then into a spit bucket so we can dispose of them later.
Be sure to place all our trash in garbage bags that we provide. Do not use the customers trash can.
Neatly fold drop clothes for storage. When the paint is dry you can put the switch plates and fixtures back on. The floor can be vacuumed.


Step 8 - Touch ups and checklist
After everything is cleaned up and the tools removed, you can take a walk through and check for touch ups. You can also go through the checklist that PrecisionPainting provides. Now we move on to the next job.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:20 PM   #8
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i also read emyth this summer and found it very interesting....need to start on my business handbook as soon as i have 1 minute to myself. so thanks for the details on your operational manual...i might use them as a template for my manual.sounds pretty good to me...although i would add to that ,when you should use certain types of primer ex.oil base for water stains and over previously wallpaper walls.i also think that maybe you should be a little more detailed in your instructions. FYI i don't know if you saw but i asked about business handbooks in a previous thread....someone told me about www.outofthebucket.com you might want to check it out. they even sell painting contractors operational manual. good luck...at least one of us is getting our butt in gear.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:27 PM   #9
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oh...yes and since i was just recently bit in the butt by this one recently...ask customer if there are any nail holes that they DON'T want spackled!!
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:29 PM   #10
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oh...yes and since i was just recently bit in the butt by this one recently...ask customer if there are any nail holes that they DON'T want spackled!!
Huh? 'splain that one... sounds like a wacky cat lady or something.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:40 PM   #11
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kan, on #1 you might want to add a 2" strip of blue tape over the electrics, keeps them nice and clean.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:43 PM   #12
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Huh? 'splain that one... sounds like a wacky cat lady or something.



Lol....

True though, I had three last month

...uh, three people that didn't want some nail holes filled, not crazy cat ladies
Crazy Cat Lady month was October
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:59 PM   #13
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I was just joking about step #8...

I just spewd off a few things off the top of my head without going into any detail... I wasnt 100% sure exactly what you wanted...

Like slick has said there a multiple steps...

Seems like you have things covered... just break each interior or exterior process down with a discription of Exactly how you want things done...

On step #8 I would do a final walk through BEFORE I cleaned up my brushes and put tools away...(save time) it stinks to find something that needs touch up and have to break tools and materials out again...
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Old 12-04-2006, 12:47 AM   #14
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I would hire & pay more for a helper that did exactly as I said, before I'd hire another painter who has thier own way of doing things. I don't care if there are 10 ways to do something... My way or you're gone.

My last helper I had was great. She would begin the prep phase, set up the colours in each room, layout the tarps, clean and vacuum out the rooms when I was finished, wash the brushes, pick up paint... All I had to do was walk into a room paint, put down my brush, start the next room, while she cleaned up the last room, then quickly setup whatever I needed next...

Leep frog technique...
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Old 12-04-2006, 01:04 AM   #15
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I tell them to leave the nails in the holes they don't want filled. Pictures and such.
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Old 12-04-2006, 04:06 AM   #16
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If your reading trash like E- myth, might as well close the doors, baby...
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:27 AM   #17
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Thanks for the replies. The tape over plugs is a good one as well as leaving the nails in holes not to be filled. Final walk throughs befoe the brushes are cleaned up makes sense. I think I will continue to work on it adding more detail. I am also going to do one for res. repaints, one for new construction, and one for exterior. For instance, I just landed a new home with 275 sheets of drywall (lots of Spraying) where these 8 steps would be useless.
E-myth may be trash but I've tryed everything else. It's not all bad I have found a couple of good painters but I want to grow and there is only so many good ones out there. If I can just find good workers I figure these steps will help simplify things rather than me wasting my time trying to explain every little detail.
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:54 PM   #18
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ok heres my nail hole story and it wasn't a crazy cat lady!! lol. we started and room and just assumed all holes should be filled. well the homeowner came in saw we filled all his holes for 3 pictures and thru a hissy fit he went on for 30 mins(and he was a man). he had paid an interior decorator to come in to help him decide where he should hang the pictures and from what the interior decorator said about it he really anal retentive....it was an inch to high...to low...a little to the right...so here we are with a lazor light trying to figure out what hole that we patched, and there were alot ... was directly across from his t.v....after 30 mins we told him to get over it...lol
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Old 12-04-2006, 04:59 PM   #19
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The E-myth model is very successful. What don't you like about it, Woz?.. Just curious.
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:14 PM   #20
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The E-myth model is very successful. What don't you like about it, Woz?.. Just curious.
He's never read it
I think he thinks it's a "Matt Foley, Motivational Speaker" type-deal
Regardless, that discussion is best left for another thread, not this one

...or actually you can do a "search forums" and you'll find a few threads
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