Lets Talk High Water Tables.

POOLMANinCT

this is an important topic... back to ground water

ruskent

Ray i am worried about to much water in the hole poping the pool out of the ground. Normally i will tie the pool into the decking with rebar.

Alot of the leads i have are for houses that are 2 or 3 feet above see level. Some houses are on the bay or lagoons. I know at 2 or 3 feet we will hit water on most of them down on the coast.

Hopefully the first couple i put in the ground are easy ones!

dirt diggler

do not tie the pool to the deck (via rebar)

deck will heave and damage pool



once water is in the pool - you will be fine. you NEED to install a sump system in the event that YOU ever have to go back and drain the pool (i.e. warranty - whatever, etc).

Instead of "abandoning" a well point - just cap it off and leave it. If it's stick out of the ground, dig down a foot, cap it off a foot below and then cap it - MARK it so that you or anyone else can use it in the future if they have to


problem will be to keep the water out while you are prepping for the shell (i.e. laying the base)

that's what your well point will be used for.



it's about equalization. let's say your shell is 8 feet deep

and there is groundwater 6 ft

you need to fill that shell 2 feet with water to equalize the pressure


in other words - take a hydrostate valve. It will allow water to seep in --- however --- that water that comes in will not be a higher level than it is in the ground ---- because is equalizes.

denick

You guys are doing well with this thread. The simple answer to all water is "keep it lower than the work"

Rusknet, are these pools going to be in sand? the soil type can compound the problem greatly. Water moves through sand so quickly nothing is stable. If your real close to the shore the tides can be a factor. We dug quite a few jobs on Long Island Sound factoring in the tide. When on the shore the hard part is to judge how much pump will be enough. If you can find an excavator who knows the area and is good he could be real helpful.

First thing to do is approach it contractually as a regular dig and have everything to do with rain, underground water, pumping, pumping set up costs, re-digging, over digging, unsuitable material removal, delay from all the mentioned, etc, etc as an extra cost.

Once the agreement is sign a test hole would not be a bad idea if you are real uncertain. Just like a deep hole test for a septic perk test.

__________________
Nick

"Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving" Albert Einstein

lukachuki

great thread...learning lots

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Less with the jaw more with the paw!

dirt diggler

great ....


that'll be $275 Luke