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Old 04-14-2009, 11:02 PM   #1
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Squeaky Shower base

I have a customer that has a shower base that is not only flexing slightly when standing in it but squeaks very loudly every time you reposition yourself. They are not in a financial position to change out the shower at this time and are asking me for some suggestions. There are only two ideas that come to mind, drill holes in the subfloor and use a mud pump to put SR mud under the installed base or use foam in a can to fill the cavity. They only problem with either of the remidies is what will be the proper dry time? I don't want to cause any additional problems while trying to fix the original one. If you use foam do you go with the low exansion or something other? Any one ever ran into this problem before and have a better fix??

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Old 04-15-2009, 02:09 AM   #2
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never ran into this prob but i would think you should use a window /door foam. the low expansion
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:12 PM   #3
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What material is shower base made from? I know someone who actually buckled a plastic [vickrel] base with expanding spray foam.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
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I know someone who actually buckled a plastic [vickrel] base with expanding spray foam.

That's one vote for low expansion
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:39 PM   #5
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I would use low expansion foam.

Do yourself a favor if you don't already have one and buy either a Hilti foam gun or a Right Stuff gun.

You'll save yourself the cost of the gun in the first year of not throwing partial cans of foam away.

You'll also think of lots of good(unusual) uses for the foam since it's so much fun to use your precision foam squirting gun.

For instance we were putting a wall cleat in to support a vanity top. The tile guys had already put baseboard in so the cleat didn't extend to the bottom plate and there was no blocking. Cut a hole in the drywall and fill the bottom of the stud cavity with foam.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:47 PM   #6
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without going back and giving more inspection I don't recall what exactly the shower base is made of. I am guessing that it was installed in the early 80's if that helps.

How does the hilti/right stuff foam cans compare in price to just buying like dap foam n a can?
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:07 AM   #7
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I think I would rather open up an adjascent wall, fill under the base with mortar, or plaster. If the base is fiberglass, you may find legs that need shimming and liquid nails instead of the filler. While you have it open, you can accurately inspect for water, and mold issues. Inspect around the drain as well, to make sure that all that movement hasn't created any plumbing issues.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:20 AM   #8
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good point
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:58 AM   #9
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If you use foam it will degrade and you will be back where you started except without the ability to inject mortar. Drill, cut out or whatever and pack it with mud (mortar) let it set up at least 24 hours. Done and no call backs.
Should have been set in a mortar bed to start with. The constant flexing will eventually crack the pan.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:28 PM   #10
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Nine parts sharp sand to one part Portland and just enough water to shine when troweled.

It goes down, then a double layer of 6 mil plastic with a good coat of spray silicone lubricant on each layer, then the tub or shower pan. Overkill? Maybe, but it doesn't squeak and it doesn't deflect.

How to fix yours? Only one way to do it right. Everything else is just a short term fix.
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:58 PM   #11
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How to fix yours? Only one way to do it right. Everything else is just a short term fix.
I thought that's what he was asking for.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:00 PM   #12
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Well, OK.

This thing has been a problem for a while. Nwks is being asked for long term solution for a budget that isn't sufficient to do the job.

As to the dry time, with any cement based product, you're looking at several days to weeks for a proper dry. For the foam, you'll have to check with the manufacturer, but I think a low expansion polyurethane will cure in about 8 hours. I wouldn't use a latex based product.

I do think I would try to use a plastic sheet or bag as a container for the foam with the outside liberally sprayed with silicone. The reason is, if there is any flex, this will lubricate and allow things to move (hopefully) quietly, or more quietly than before. The other reason is, if the client has a change in the budget, and yet must reuse the surround, the foam can be easily removed and no real clean up will be required.
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:25 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the replies, some I never had thought of, thats the good thing about this forum it brings alot of view points. I will contact the customer and present the potential fixes for the squeaky base and proceed.
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