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Old 01-04-2008, 08:12 PM   #1
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Grouting tile that is pitted...

We have been installing this type of tile in bathrooms or where ever that has pits or veins/grooves. In most occasions we have always suggested a darker grout for my reasoning that it hides dirt better. In a recent project, the customer chose a lighter grout which tends to show up in the pits.

I spoke with my tile supplier and they said we did not clean it well enough after the grouting process. I think that was funny because their display even has grout in the pits.

Is there an expert tile guy out there who can tell me what went wrong? Not all of the pits are filled. But I am not sure I know what we could have done different. Personally, I think it looks good because it ties the grout color into the tile. BUT ITS NOT MY TILE - I know that.

Seems like if not the grout, dirt will go there.

My tile supplier did say with general cleaning most of the grout will work itself out - is that right?

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Old 01-04-2008, 11:14 PM   #2
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I'm assuming this is a natural stone? Travertine?

Depending on how large/deep the pits are, two coats of sealer before grouting will help this.

However, with unfilled travertine (or similar), you'll want to pick a grout color that's monochromatic/complimentary to the color of the stone--grouting the holes is assumed when you use these tile.
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:53 PM   #3
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When choosing un-filled my first question to them Do you want the pits filled with grout or dirt? Unless they agree to filling the pits with grout we will pass on the job.
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:22 AM   #4
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Grouting Tile with pits

Well this is not a natural stone or travertine - I am told it is a ceramic tile that is pre-sealed. Because of the pits & veins running through out each tile it looks like a stone. But again I am told it is not.

In my remodeling efforts, we have laid tons of tile and not had an issue. Most of the time, however the customer has chosen a darker grout per my suggestion and presumably that is why we have never had complaints before. I would agree that unless the customer agrees to grout in the pits, we should pass on the tile.

I mean I am not a novice but logically, due to the process, we would get grout int the pits.

Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:22 PM   #5
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they make an empty caulk tube you can buy to fill with your grout and then it works like caulking the joints, just be carefull when wiping the joint with a sponge that you don't smear the grout on the tile.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:44 PM   #6
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If you didn't get all the pits filled, then go back and fill them. Why would anyone have selected a tile with pits in it if they didn't want them filled with grout?
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:59 AM   #7
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For that type of tile, I use a grout bag with a steel tip. I fill the grout joints slghtly over full, and when it starts setting up, I use a piece of plastic tubing to tool the joint. Wipe off any you get on the face of the tile. The the next day, just sweep up all the little pieces of grout from when you tooled it. It really doesn't take me any longer to grout because the extra time it takes to grout is offset be the short "clean-up" time.

One thing about sealing the tile if you want to grout with a float, you have to be careful about getting sealer on teh sides of the tile, it will keep the grout from adhering.

I have seen a few slate tile floors over the years where the contractor sealed the tile and it ran down into the joint, and within a year or two areas of the grout started poping out. you could take a small screwdriver and pop pieces out, and you could see the shiny sealer on the sides of the tile.

I also agree with Cleveman, why would anyone choose that type of tile and not think that the pits wouldn't fill with dirt? for a family room or backsplash (where I mostly use it) it looks nice, but a high maintenance bathroom floor????
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:52 PM   #8
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Yup grout bag, did this for 4 days on a huge kitchen floor, worst part was is was natural slate and there was not 2 tiles that were the same size. That means a little wider grout line. I have sense started laying slate tight in a basket weave. Seems to work out good and people like the look it makes. I would say more natural??? More random??? YOu guys probably know what I mean. Your gonna have to bag that stuff if the HO is a pick bastard!!!! When they pick that tile again tell the HO you will cut him a deal if he lets you show him how to grout so he (HO) learns a new skill and still has it turn out the same way. They cant bitch as much if is there own fault! If I dont supply the tile I wont lay it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevjob View Post
When choosing un-filled my first question to them Do you want the pits filled with grout or dirt? Unless they agree to filling the pits with grout we will pass on the job.
as kev said this is addressed before the tile's even purchased. we always groute stone the same as any other.
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:58 AM   #10
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Here's some pics of a 1000sqft Travertine job (16x16s) I did 2yrs ago. The cust wanted no holes filled, bet they are filled with dirt by now. Sealed the tile before grouting, taped off lots of edges. Then used a margain float. Charged them an additional $1500, just for the grouting, made out like a bandit. On glazed tile with pits and veins, I'll seal before grouting. Then go back the next day and scrub out any remaining grout with a very stiff bristle nylon scrub brush. Of course there are extra charges for all this, which are agreed upon before hand.

grouting-tile-pitted-backup-043.jpg

grouting-tile-pitted-backup-046.jpg

grouting-tile-pitted-dscn0915.jpg
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:15 PM   #11
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Yeah i wouldnt install pitted floor tile personally.... Either grout or dirt and hair, you choose....
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:09 PM   #12
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We have been installing this type of tile in bathrooms or where ever that has pits or veins/grooves. In most occasions we have always suggested a darker grout for my reasoning that it hides dirt better. In a recent project, the customer chose a lighter grout which tends to show up in the pits.

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