Tiling Shower And Seat

R&D Tile

You never thinset to poly, not sure what you are stating, I'm in Hicksville neighbor.

And as far as the screws, what are you using them for, the CBU, once moisture gets under the slab or through it and it WILL, it will rot everything out, believe me, I know, ripped many out.

Going to bed now, have to get up early for work, will continue this tomorrow.

genecarp

goodnight , im out also

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Bud Cline

Somebody show me where all of this nonsense is located in any of the tile installation handbooks please. You can't simply glue any cement board to anything, no way that will last.

Bud Cline

So.....where's the picture that was promised? That would be a big help.

genecarp

here is another example, the first one showed the specs for thinset, this one shows another clearly spelled out system...G

http://askville.amazon.com/build-sho...uestId=2951076

There are numerous options for your seat material. You can use ceramic tile, marble, granite, cultured marble, or solid surface countertop material. If you use ceramic tile, you must first install a piece of cementitious board over the membrane. Do not nail the board through the membrane! Simply mix one part cement and one part sand. Make the mixture fairly wet. Apply a one quarter to one half inch thick layer of this cement paste on top of the membrane. Set the cut piece of cement board directly in the mixture. Use a level to check the seat for level left to right as you face the seat. A slight pitch towards the center of the shower will allow water to drain off the seat.


membrane is the vinyle

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genecarp

one more and i am going to bed, Waterproofing is accomplished by using the vinyl membranes that are used beneath ceramic tile floors. Simply purchase and install a continuous sheet from the floor, up the front of the bench over the seat and up the back of the seat wall about six inches. The membrane is only nailed at the top edges. You will have to penetrate the front bench wall surface with nails when you install the vertical piece of cement board. This is not a problem, as I have yet to develop a leak in my shower after 15 years. is accomplished by using the vinyl membranes that are used beneath ceramic tile floors. Simply purchase and install a continuous sheet from the floor, up the front of the bench over the seat and up the back of the seat wall about six inches. The membrane is only nailed at the top edges. You will have to penetrate the front bench wall surface with nails when you install the vertical piece of cement board. This is not a problem, as I have yet to develop a leak in my shower after 15 years. The marble or granite seat simply lays in a thin bed of cement mortar on the vinyl membrane. If you choose to install ceramic tile on the seat, just cut a piece of cement board first and install it as you would the granite or marble. Never nail through marble or granite seat simply lays in a thin bed of cement mortar on the vinyl membrane. If you choose to install ceramic tile on the seat, just cut a piece of cement board first and install it as you would the granite or marble. Never nail through


somebody show me where all of this nonsense is about not being able to glue cement board, it does last, goodnight all, i am tired, G

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R&D Tile

I give up, that link is nonsense and all of this is incorrect, except what I have stated so far as to how it SHOULD be done.

I'm now done with this thread and good luck to those who install it their way.

kevjob

just use a better bench and kerdi from now on.

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Kevin
Basement Finishing Highlands Ranch Colorado
Littleton Colorado, Basement Remodeling
Kitchen Remodeling Denver

TilePRO

Best thing before you start tiling is to durock the seat top and front face and use galvanized or stainless steel drywall screws and silicone the heads so its water proof again, when you do that make sure silicone the back of te durock and stick it to the liner also. If you will still tile the top and face I recommend that you use bigger tiles and use thin-set instead of glue, that will make it stronger and long lasting, Start finishing front face and around shower first and finish top part of the seat. On the front top edge and side of the seat you should use matching bullnose so tip of the tile does not hurt people. I would also recommend that you use thin-set up to 4 feet high in the shower area and the rest you could use glue if you want.

You should mud and tile shower pan floor after durocking and then start doing everything else.

This is the best you can do, but if you want a comfy seat spend some money and buy a 1 piece slab that matches the tile. better looking, longer lasting easier to maintain.



NOTICE:This is best of my knowledge and it is your responsibility to do the job right, please do not blame it on me if you do something wrong or job does not come out the way you want.

rbeck3@ec.rr.co

sorry for the no pics and all the arguing going on but here the pics.

Attached Thumbnails

     

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passingwindII

TilePRO

well you definately need another piece of liner to replace with the existing . Your plumber is no good!! He should have installed a single piece I see that seat membrance and shower floor membrance is two different pieces. NO GOOD!!!!!

MAD Renovations

Rip that liner out....... It is in no way a waterproof membrane in the state it is in. Get a book and learn how to install Kerdi. Schluter Systems offer several complete shower kits with everything you need to do a proper "WATER PROOF" shower.

R&D Tile

And it will if you follow those instructions.

I doubt there's a even a pre-slope from what I see in those photos.

And, if you continue with that shower the way it is, you will be in BIG trouble real SOON...


Enough of this, it's wrong, needs to be completely redone correctly.


Oh and, not even going to start with the curb, that's another story, not to mention the liner is about 8" too low, forget it, done ranting, good night.

MAD Renovations

ddm

I'd tear the bench and membrane out and start over, a shower constructed like that will never last. You may consider using block for your bench on top of the liner.

kevjob

please tell me that is not a steam shower.

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Kevin
Basement Finishing Highlands Ranch Colorado
Littleton Colorado, Basement Remodeling
Kitchen Remodeling Denver

TilePRO

It is not even shower, it is a steam room! wont even last 3 months like this, big trouble! rip it out and have a licensed and experienced plumber reinstall the liner for you.

415moto

Wow, is all I can say...
Where is water that makes it under the tile supposed to go, under the seat into the framing?

If the pan and seat WAS waterproofed correctly, Id say the answer is to mud the pan and seat. Doesn't seem like too many people do that anymore, but thats what we do on all our showers, seat or no seat. We use hot mop out here...sometimes you run into the rubber liners, but most are hot mopped.

genecarp

one piece needs to be used, and it must include the curb, also the face of the seat face must extend, not terminate tight in the corner, glue should be used to stick to substrate, other than that, YOUR FINE.

uh oo, just noticed the face of the bench is not sheathed either, that is CRAZY, entire bench needs to sheathed first, then liner, the wonderboard, if you are using that type of system...liner also needs to come further up wall, as far as preslope, not required here, tile guy SHOULD handle slope with muddddd

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genecarp

look at photo #1

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