Small Width Cut At The Tub Or At The Door Entrance

After reading thru numerous threads.
On the 12x24 layouts 1/3 offset on a 63 1/2 deep bathroom floor where is your small width 2 3/4 approx.wide tile cut against the tub or at the door entrance. Always wondered what seems to be the norm. Customers don't have a preference, Its usually my call or how I'm feeling that day. This one is unusually a small left over width. Last few where 6 to 8 inches. Maybe I should run them vertical instead

I put it at the door as I work my way out. At the door opening itself I make the tile end mid door.

Tom

You also have the option from centering the pattern between the front of tub and underneath the door. It would give you larger pieces at each end. Those are really the only 3 main options that I'm aware of. I usually ask the clients and see if they care.

Some don't want a sliver at the door, they specifically want a large tile. Others absolutely want a full tile at the tub.

Think of it this way... When you look into the room what do you want to see? Usually, the most complete picture because your eyes go to the farthest delineation in it's view ... when you look out of the room, it doesn't really matter what's at the door as you're looking and walking past it in both directions...

Gotta go with Kap here. You want a good look when looking into the room. Looking out, not so much, especially since the door itself can hide the divide.

I am with Travis. Skip the sliver at either end. Start with a half or larger (not a full width) width tile at the tub. Then finish with a wider cut but not a sliver at the door...make sense? A little extra cutting but a better look.

Yeah, no slivers. ie a 7" rip at each end instead of a 2" at one end. I'll often put a 2" rip behind a vanity and toilet though.

I would almost always run tile in the opposite direction. Otherwise full tile at the tub or split the difference.

Thanks
Gents
I was sitting on the couch and thinking. Heck why don't I split the center and avoid the sliver at the end. Open up my email and voila.
This job has been a nightmare full of gaffs. Clients own plumber and electrician. I'm not sure what area your from. This plumber does not install tubs. AND he hooks up the drain and the tubs not even levelled or attached to the walls.
Then the electrician runs the power for the floor heat and doesn't leave a fish wire to get the heated floor wires to the box. Box is 4 ft up the wall thru 2 sets of horizontal blocking.
Yep tile installer to the rescue.

Splitting the difference is certainly another option but more suited towards larger rooms than this where your eye can't take it all in at once so it would be much less noticeable in a larger room... splitting the difference in a small room like this and all you would be left with is two areas that are not full-tile drawing more attention to it... ironically, depending on the size of the tile, it can also end up framing it making the floor area visually look more condensed...

Another thing to consider is what he's transitioning from which is the wood floors and its slivers... even running it the opposite way as Avenge does, would you split the difference or place the focus on what the eye sees most?

Keep in mind customer preference as they have to live with it... give them all the options, with a layout grid and have them sign-off on their choice...

The main reason I run the opposite way is it makes the room look longer. He's running a 24" plank 1/3 offset so depending how he laid it out not all the tiles would be short. He'd have to worry about the horizontal width which usually isn't much of an issue if you have cabinets and a toilet on one side. In that case I usually split the difference between the cabinet and wall and put the short piece behind the toilet.

Thanks for all the replies
I ended up 6 1/2 inches on the first row against the tub. There happy. Don't think they cared either way. Plus I had to leave an inch at the door threshold so they could finish off the wood floor with a transition strip, overlapping the tile. Since the wood floor is out almost 3/4 inch from one end of the doorway to the other.
Now onto the top of the surround. Shimming heaven to get my ProVa up. The tub surround is 1/4 in. away in the center studs and almost 1/2 at the ends as it makes the turns.

If it helps, this is what I did (don't know how easy it is for you to see).

I used 12"x24" tiles. But I went length rather than width to give the impression of a longer / deeper guest bathroom. When I knew the transition wasn't going to be spectacular, I had several sheets of back-splash tile that I laid in front of the tub (half rows I'd say). going across it vertically. It works kind of well because I intentionally made a slight depression in it, so this is where water collects (if it escapes out of the shower past the shower curtain). Then between that, I cut narrow strips of tile (about 3/4" stripes) and laid that out as a final border between the tub and the back-splash tile I laid.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out, and it adds a little extra flair to the bathroom floor.

Nice touch
I not sure my clients would go for the small tile in front of the tub. It's a water trap and the more grout lines the more chance of infiltration.

Interesting that the tile doesn't go to the ceiling. Never had an install yet that they told me to leave it short and not get rid of painting a 1 ft strip around the tub area.

Certainly... this is on the bottom floor, on top of a concrete slab, so there's no infiltration that I'm concerned with. This is definitely not something I'd do with a wood substrate.

I put it there to provide some interest in the room, and for the most part the customer really likes it (that would be me and my wife, hahah). It rarely would get any water there assuming the person taking the shower uses the shower curtain properly.

My wife really wanted me to go all the way to the top with the tile, but I really felt like it was building a monolith in the bathroom, so I liked the diminutive effect it had on the shower by leaving the top exposed.
The tile I used was the "Metro Gris" from Home Depot.

I also went nuts with Red Guard on top of the hardie backer, and all the grout I used was the one with the stain resistant pre-mix.