jtfussell

I have a lady that is wanting a patio to be covered in pebblestone. I have many years of expierence in tile and stone, can't say I have ever put down a pebblestone covered patio. It is going on a concrete slab, can anyone give me some pointers? Is it like putting a adheasive down and then sealing it with a morter, epoxy?>

Teetorbilt

What are you calling pebblestone? Stuff like this?

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Bud Cline

Is this on an existing concrete patio?

Houston's

I have seen peblestone with the web back and i think in 12x12

SLSTech

More than likely the HO went to a home & garden show - basically it is pebble stones laid in epoxy & most places only sell the components to their authorized installers. Some leave the surface rough while others completely cover the pebbles & add on a slip resistant coating over it

I will say the finished product looks great - how long it lasts???

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Bud Cline

I was associated with one of those outfits for a time. In the Midwest there are issues. It is said to be freeze/thaw stable, it is not, if the rocks aren't pooled in the epoxy and there is no way to do that on vertical surfaces.

It also is not UV stable. It requires an annual application of a sunscreen product to keep it from ambering.

It also sheds rock with the slightest irregular treatment.

Great product indoors not so great outdoors where winter weather is a factor.

MattCoops

I hate the way that pebblestone feels on your feet.

Taranis

This is where I come in guys.

We have a floor called Pebblestone. Does exactly what is says on the tin, coloured stones bound in resin. Could be epoxy, polyurethane or Polyaspartic. A combination of the above could be used to resolve the UV issue preventing discolouration.
Go for a natural colour blend and colour change wouldn't be an issue.

These resins are essentially factory floors (which can last for 40 years heavy traffic in very difficult conditions, cold etc.) so will last outside no problem.


Been using these resins for over 20 years so don't have any qualms about them lasting the pace.

billeboy

Hi, I'm doing epoxy stone coatings in Vancouver.Are you using polyaspartics as a top coat or as the binder? I think that if you put a p.a. coating over epoxy outside, the epoxy underneath it will still fade/chalk/discolour. What do u think?

Michael Olding

I see these installations a lot in our area and it could just be the product that was used locally but almost all that I have looked at failing.

Like others have said it is probably due to the UV breakdown as I don't believe the freeze thaw would have a lot to do with this product since it is so porous.

There may be some epoxies that hold up well under UV but certainly not for residential installations, at least not at a competitive or affordable price.

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Bud Cline

And therein lies one of the problems. Yes, it is porous and will let water go thru it. But, what about the material that has bound itself to the substrate? Out doors the substrate is typically concrete. There is no where for the water to go once it has penetrated between the stones. So...the water sits there waiting to evaporate or freeze, whichever comes first. Once it freezes something has to give as the ice expands between the stones. What gives? The stones, they only have one way to move during the ice expansion and that is upward. Wah-lah! Erosion of the stones.

Taranis

Let me clear things up....

When a resin floor needs to be porous outside it is usually laid onto a porous sub-floor, such as a tarmac. There would be no point in having a porous topping when there is nowhere for the water to go.
Secondly, I don't agree with installing a porous floor outside. The resin would not cope with the rainwater coming through it. My best option would be to lay the floor as it's meant to be laid (a dry mix) then seal the holes and allow the rainwater to go to a drain. There are reasons why sometimes a porous resin is specified but won't go into it just now.
Another point is that eventualy dirt will build up in the holes and block the water from going through. Bad idea in my view.

Back to Billeboy's question.
Dependant on how much traffic is going to be using the resin.
Polyaspatic is relatively new compared to epoxy and PU but in my tests I have been left impressed with it. I suggest a PA primer then base coat, blind scatter with aggregate (maximum size 1.5 mm) then two clear coats PA seal. I used this on a temporary walkway to the main entrance of a major shopping mall in Glasgow, worked really well. Looks good, is taking the punishment of a lot of shoppers and is keeps clean - a positive aspect of this resin. Polyaspartic is a thin bed resin and fast curing, a plus in our climate.

For 4-6 mm aggregate you would need to use either epoxy or PU. The manufacturers you go to will put forward their most suitable product. If using epoxy we always apply a water based UVR seal over the epoxy (after filling the voids between the aggregate). This stops the blooming that will happen when water comes into contact with the epoxy within the first 5 days after installation. It also provides a UV barrier to protect the epoxy colouration.

I would never buy resins from a store. Don't know the situation in North America but here only the very basic resins are available in DIY stores.

tbeck214

I would sponge milk onto the concrete and mix it in your thin set, then beat it in with a float. also use grout with epoxy, but do a sample piece first. that epoxy has some weird effects on stone

Alex Leedham

I installed a 12x12 sheet pebble stone floor in a shower,(customer selected), it was awful on the feet in my opinion.