I have a question too.
Whats the deal with grab bars? Are you screwed without blocking?
I saw Wedi uses a silicone to cover joints and screws. In this months magazine I saw the writer chose kerdi band and thinset for fasteners and joints? Seems like a lot more work and would make the wall lumpy. Any preference?
You have to attached grab bars to structure regardless of your substrate choice.
Kerdi Band is to waterproof the seams and fastners. It's made from Kerdi Membrane with is an amazing product. If you take the class they will show you the water retention properties even without thinset boding the layers. You can take a square piece of it and cut a slit to the middle. Shape it into a cone and then pour water in it. It will not leak.
The band and membrane do raise the plane at those points, but why would that affect your installation? Even if you only troweled the wall or tile the thinset would contour to the slight hump and should affect your installation. Anytime that I can I am using a leveling system which would eliminate any worry of that telegraphing through to the tile.
I don't think I would use it directly over studs. I've only used the membrane system twice and both times it was over 23/32" T&G OSB and then 1/2" cement board (Durock). If I used Kerdi board, I would probably elect to install it over 23/32" T&G OSB.
My layering technique requires furring out the walls adjacent to the shower but I like the structure to be really solid in the shower area.
It does come in different thicknesses. The thicker ones are quite stiff, but there's no harm in putting up CB or the like, then 1/2" kerdi board for waterproofing and flatness. The thin ones are great for assembling complicated murals or mosaics - do them on a bench in the shop, then put the whole thing up on the wall.
I'm in Westchester county, ny and was just quoted $89 per sheet for 4x8 of 5/8" kerdi board.
I'm using this for first time on my own house. Just curious, how do you guys justify the expense of this? Does the labor savings over, say, using cbu and red guard outweigh the premium in material cost?
I think its more convenience, speed and ease of installation. I dont do many baths but I was going to use Wedi a year ago but the job didnt sell for me. The supplier sent me a spreadsheet of 4 different shower builds labor and material, the boards were still the most expensive way to do it.
I broke it down in 3 different shower/ bathroom remodeling projects. I come to find that you break even using the schluter system in terms of money. What you save in time you spend on material. The two distinct advantages is 1st you end up with a well rounded system with a factory warranty that is sufficient in most applications. 2nd you get off the job faster and get to the next one this is where the money comes from. Ok I'll add one more you don't have to carry all that heavy backer board!!
Yea i figured no matter how I slice it, kerdi board is gonna be the most expensive. It's just a matter of whether or not it's worth it to pay the premium. I'm thinking it may be, considering how much I hate red guard and how expensive using kerdi over cbu can be.
Only downside for me is no one near me stocks it. Have to order from dal-tile, takes about a week, and only comes in quantities of 6.
4x8 Is kind of a dumb size isnt it? 3x5 of course works in baths but another option would be 5x7 or 6x7.
I am actually looking forward to using it.
I have not looked at the specs yet since I have not committed to a brand but are there any issues for ceiling installation in stall? How are outside corners treated or foam edges in general, like cases where you use a pre formed pan?
I assume it doesnt matter. I have the TCNA 2013 I think they recognized foam boards in this issue. Will have to look
Not sure why but it is very difficult to get it here in NJ, no one that I know stocks it. They can get it but shipping costs bring up the cost too much. 10 days - 2 week wait
It does list a polyurethane sealant/caulking as an approved method of joint and fastener waterproofing. It says to apply a liberal bead on the edges and spread excess out after to press 2 pieces together. May go buy a piece and check it out.
Below is a copy and paste from the instructions, it states you need both the polyurethane sealant and liquid membrane for a waterproof joint;
"Joint Sealing: Polyurethane sealant/caulk (in tube) or 2" wide polymer-coated alkali-resistant fiber glass mesh tape and mortar, as above, coated with a liquid waterproofing membrane for waterproof installations."
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