Yeah I would transition between the pan and wall with Kerdi band.
Not sure why they don't spec a washer screw. I screwed a piece to a 2x today using cement board screws at their recommended spacing and it was a very solid connection.
So overnight I didn't lose any water. Zero signs of moisture underneath. Also withheld my weight standing on it. Also held my partner and he has an extra 50 plus lbs over me.
Well since I officially hijacked this thread I am going to use this GoBoard on my next shower. None of my tests failed and I can't see why I shouldn't. I will start a new topic when I do. Starting it next week.
We do a kerdi hybrid shower. Kerdi for pan, bench and curb and Densshield on walls with liquid proofing over seams and screws. We come up the walls about 12" or so with kerdi and or kerdi band. Been doing it this way for about 6 years with no issues so far.
My vote is for WEDI over Kerdi. One thing I like about the WEDI is the caulking can easily be discarded and smeared if you have extra while I know discussion over cleanup of thinset in houses can sometimes be time consuming and challenging. Also adds weight for disposal of dumps and ours charge based on weight.
Secondly I like how with WEDI you can use Modified mortar and maintain the warranty with the entire system which makes any mosaic or glass install easier as you save a step (schluter asks for a skim of unmodified before using modified to keep warranty). Means that I don't get caught with multiple different bags of mortar all the time.
These are not huge differences but I find the install simpler and straight forward without confusing rules that schluter requires for warranty. Some food for thought.
Finally, be careful with polyisocyanurate foam boards. I have been told from some guys that they can break down over time when exposed to weather up north here, which makes me nervous for that type of a board in this application.
I used WEDI on a shower last year, and was quite happy with it. My only complaints would be the cost of the shower pans was almost double of a Schulter pan, and the sizes were pretty limited as well.
On installation unmodified required. Therefore a skim would be required prior to bonding glass or anything requiring modified by tile manufacturer? Unless I'm misunderstanding?
I know unmodified is required. It was your skim coat I was questioning.
Schluter states to use unmodified only, if the manufacture requires (such as porcelain or glass) they (Schluter) will cover the install 100% no matter what the tile manufacture requires.
I saw one install Schluter covered, honestly they should not have. Every issue was installer stupidity, not only in the Schluter but everything else on the job.
Well, you can do a combo of preformed and kerdi board set at a slope with plywood/2x tapered rips. You can just set kerdi board in mud to get the appropriate slope. You can do preformed and mud combo. There are many combinations to do it.
If anybody is interested in Schluter systems, I recommend attending the workshop they offer. Very informative and hands on if you are new to the product. Plus they pay your hotel for two nights and feed you good both days. I've been using it for 3 and a half years now and won't turn back.
Hung kerdi board in my two bathrooms this weekend. So easy to install. Just waiting on the plumber to install the shower bodies to finish up. Also waiting for tapers to finish before I install the kerdi pan and finish installing bottom board in the shower.
Around the niche, can I cover the 2x4 sides and plywood back in kerdi band and tile right over that, or should I install kerdi board in the niche?
How are you guys treating the the foam edges. In a case where you have a fiberglass pan you will have a bottom edge or more important in the case where you have an alcove stall or tub you may outside corners. I know kerdi band or fleece with thinset is a popular method.
I think I would consider mitering my boards to maintain the surface.
Unfortunately, after finally hunting down a couple of places to buy the stuff sticker has scared off the baths I quoted. Very hard to contract bath work as a GC unless your tiling in house.
On the exposed alcove corners, fiberglass tape-mortar on the tub/wet side, hot mud on the room side. Any niche in the wet area gets Kerdi band on the corners.
When you install the board make sure you lap the Kerdi board over the drywall cut edge.
Install drywall to the edge of the alcove, install Kerdi. The Kerdi covers the raw drywall edge. Tape with fiberglass tape, mortar on the wet side, hot mud on the room side. If the Kerdi extends past the area to be tiled, mud, prime and paint the Kerdi the same as you would drywall.
So relying on fiberglass mesh for a corner is a little lousy to me but I guess it is what it is.
I would be a little caution about mudding and painting the kerdi on the room side, but if you have not had a problem doing it, I trust your judgement
If you're running the bullnose or a tile with trim right up to the edge of the Kerdi that hard surface will protect that corner. The mesh and hot mud are on the room side to be finished off.
If you're running the tile short of the corner, no reason you cannot use a plastic corner bead. Just feather it in as you would any corner. I avoid steel beads in bathrooms.
Hot mud and drywall compound stick to Kerdi board better than it sticks to drywall. The slightly rough surface is a great tooth for the products. You trust mortar and tile to stay on the Kerdi.
Yes, that's the side I was asking about. I don't like compound in that area. Mortar down Kerdi band to the Kerdi board, on the room side use hot mud. By folding the band around you waterproofed the raw drywall edge.
That sounds like a really good practice and I should start employing that. But that section of wall outside the tub comes into contact with very little water. Still a good idea though.
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