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Installing tile on 3/8" steel plate - seeking advice

7K views 32 replies 15 participants last post by  GO Remodeling 
#1 ·
Thank you for reading -

I have a project where I'll be installing tile flooring on 3/8" steel plate. This floor has no discernible deflection. Question is; do I need hardiebacker or similar products? This will be for a bathroom including shower floor.

Any advice is much appreciated!

GT
 
#5 ·
I'm not a tile guy, but my instinct would be to put something down. I wouldn't trust the steel not to move, even if the Temps are controlled.

I'd be more inclined to plywood glued and screwed down than hardibacker. But I'd also wait for more opinions
 
#8 ·
The 3/8" steel plate is held in place by a mix of 6 - 18" I Beams.

And just out of curiosity... are you going to be in the area to screw plywood down through this? Keep in mind that on an I beam you'll be screwing through the plate AND the I beam. :)

GT
 
#9 ·
I actually have one in another (car, not contractor) forum. However, its in a private subscribed area so it isn't Internet searchable. It's been a 5+ year adventure full of some crazy stuff.

Started as a site completely filled with water and now I'm trying to tile. Feels like the home stretch. :)

GT
 
#7 ·
The steel will expand & contract.

It will also transmit vibrations which likely won't be felt but can wreak havoc with a rigid membrane like a tile floor.

You'll need some sort of uncoupling/separating layer under the tile.

I agree with Dan, yhis could be a very cool thread,

Interested to hear what the tile guys say.
 
#10 ·
Here are a few pics. The first picture is the commode sitting on the 1st floor. The blue tape outlines where the walls will go. Shower will be walk in from the right, the double sink will be on the left.

Second picture is actually of level 3 but is the same construction. I took that panel out to get to some junk from underneath out easier. Just posting it so you guys can see what its all made of.

And so you guys are less likely to think I'm full of crap. :)

GT

P.S. When talking about underground, the floors are labeled lowest numerically closest to the surface. So level one is above level 3.
 

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#15 ·
Yeah... the museum is awesome. In fact, I supply them with some of their trinkets. The rebar used in this thing is huge so I cut it up and they sell it.

Your "Why tile it?" question is interesting as I was asking myself the same thing last night. I'd love a brushed metal look but after a lot of research it seems like there is no great way to clear coat the metal.

Looked into powder coating in place but that isn't reasonable.

My latest thought has been to buy some stainless sheet... cut to the curve and affix it to the current metal. That would allow me to be able get the look I want at a reasonable price.

Since this is the master bed / bath I will have some other flooring in this area (probably carpet for comfort and acoustic advantages).

Any more creative thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!

GT
 
#16 ·
If you really want to go with tile I would put a separation membrane down over a 1/4" cement backer board glued down to the floor with a good modified thinset. Prep the floor with a low grit sandpaper to provide some grab for the thinset. That being said, I wouldn't go with tile at all, if what you say is true about the well conditioned environment, I agree that expansion shouldn't be a huge problem due to minimal thermal flux, It would look cleaner and possibly cost less to get an epoxy top coating poured in with the colour of your choosing. Creates a nice polished look and will hold up to anything you throw at it. Epoxy terrazzo is another option.
 
#17 ·
I've thought about coatings like are sold for DIY concrete shop floors for other parts of the complex. But what you are talking about sounds much thicker maybe? Will also do some searching for Epoxy terrazzo; not familiar with that. Thanks!

GT
 
#18 ·
Terrazzo is just a mix of aggregate and a binder like concrete or epoxy, normally it's layed about 1/4" thick over concrete slabs, but for your special circumstance I would assume a thicker layer would be more appropriate, you would have to talk to a specialist in the field, as there are many different types of epoxy for different uses and situations.
 
#23 ·
I'm on board with the concrete idea. I've been doing some reading on it... looks like I can get away with about 1" thick (thin) since its on a solid surface. Thoughts there are appreciated as well.

For the rest of that floor I'll put in carpet. Maybe 3/4" plywood and then pad and carpet.

GT
 
#25 ·
If you use self leveling cement or a packed mortar bed then it would be best to add some metal lath to help avoid cracking.

And if it does Crack then your right back to tile. Epoxy terrazzo cab give a polished concrete look, will resist cracking, and goes on thinner.

But there are a lot of options to choose from.
 
#26 ·
I see a bit of loose granite on cruise ships, I believe there's way more movement than a stationary silo.

Navy ship I was on you could see from main deck the ship flex.

I don't see an issue with steel deck, I believe all setting product manufacturers have the standards for steel.

Floating everything. Hardwood, laminate, vinyl etc.
 
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