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GoBoard

74K views 45 replies 16 participants last post by  jrprouddaddy6 
#1 ·
Since I de-railed the Kerdi board topic enough I started this one. I am trying the new GoBoard right now. It is similar to Wedi board in that you seal all seams with a urethane sealant. I used Sonneborne NP1. I used a Kerdi pan and drain kit. I am flood testing this shower on Monday.

Initial thoughts on the Goboard vs regular cememt board or Denshield is I like it! I was able to carry 3 sheets (3’x5′) up the stairs with 1 hand. It cuts wonderfully! Sharp knife and a straightedge give great cuts.

For fastening I did both cement board screws and 1-1/2″ roofing nails. Both are approved fasteners. I actually prefered the nails. The head of the nail would dimple the board just a little better than the screw which tended to break the facing. Then when you cover the fasteners with the NP1 the nails covered better due to the slight dimple.

For the joint sealing I would apply a nice thick bead of sealant to the edges and place the pieces into each other forcing out the excess. Then I used a plastic putty knife to smooth out the excess. I went over all seams again with more sealant per the instructions. I know the concept of relying on caulking to be waterproof bothers some but when I did my initial testing the joints were amazingly strong. When I finally did get it to fail the facing actually pulled from the core meaning the sealant had bonded to the facing.

As a second option one could leave a small 1/8″ gap and fill that with thinset. Apply fiberglass mesh tape over the seams and thinset again. Once dried you when then apply 2 coats of your favorite liquid waterproofing. I suppose you could use Kerdi band over the seams too as a third option.

I can't compare it to Kerdi board but would like to try that. The 4x8 size appeals to me over the 3x5 for reducing the number of seams. I just need to spend more time finding a closer/better supplier for Schluter products.
 

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#11 ·
I was looking at NP1 cure and skin time:

Skins: overnight or within 24 hours
Functional: within 3 days
Full cure: approximately 1 week
Immersion service: 21 days

BASF also requires a primer for fully submerged applications.


Sika 1a

Curing Rate
Tack-free time 3 to 6 hours
Tack-free to touch 3 hours
Final cure 4 to 7 days

Both are very similar in price for 20oz Sausages. I can get either for around $9 per 20oz Sausage.

Do you use a sausage gun for sealant applications for waterproofing go board or wedi?

I have been using the Milwaukee M12 sausage gun. Makes life much easier.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yes liquid is approved if you leave a small gap, fill with thinset and fiberglass over the seams first.

My Menards had that ProPanel for awhile but they didn't stock the fasteners for it. That and the pallet of panels they had was all beat up on the edges so I never tried it. I read up on it though. FinPan is a good name. They make a zero entry pan system that seems decent & that only requires the subfloor to be removed.
 
#12 ·
Nice comparison! I used regular tubes for this one. It is stocked at my masonry supplier. I like the cure times of the SikaFlex better. I will source that for my next one. I own a nice sausage gun and also the M12 gun and could add the sausage ability to it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I think the kit was like $45 for the conversion. The sealant keeps better in the gun.

The Wedi sealant has a much quicker skin time and cure time. I pay around $14 a 20oz sausage.

Skin forming time (+23°C / 50%) approx. 15 min.
Through hardening (+23°C / 50%) approx. 3 mm / 24 hours


Another option to do some testing on is Tremco Dymonic FC:

Dymonic FC is fast curing with a skin time of 60 min and a tack-free time
of 3 to 4 hr
 
#33 ·
Flood test is happening now. Everything dried nice over the weekend. As far as the caulking, it is bonded very well to the GoBoard. The NP1 is very flexible and I don't forsee any problems. I suppose the first time someone suggested using a paint on liquid waterproofing membrane and fabric they got similar resistance.
 
#34 ·
The problem I see is that it's so easy and tempting for a worker to perform these new "advances" incorrectly. Things like applying two coats of liquid membrane to really seal it, or allowing the urethane to cure fully...little details that can be make-or-break a job. Kind of reminds me of one tile guy who used to silicone the inside corners of durock (instead of taping with thinset) and assure me he's been doing for years and "it'll be fine". I hate to argue over little details like that...:cursing:
 
#45 ·
I found a 4x8 sheet of GoBoard at my local tile supplier (Louisville Tile for those of you in OH, IN, KY, TN). They had to transfer from another location, but it was only a day or two delay.

The 4x8 worked out great for a tile surround. One 4x8 and three 3x5 sheets did the tub surround with minimal seams and scrap. It's great being able to mix sizes!
 
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