Floor Heat Cable Metal Lathe Floor Mix

carterarce

I am pouring a 3/4" dry pack floor in a 9x5 bathroom with a wood subfloor. There is 20Sf of warmtile electric cable going in with about 3" spacing.

Usaully i cut up my metal lathe and nail/screw it in in strips in between the cable and of course wherever there isn't cable running then install the mud and voila.

I have done it with 1/2"hardibacker cut into strips and ran in between the cables and then screeted out thinset over the cable. this worked ok.

Has anyone ever installed the cables right under or over the metal lathe and then done the pour over the top? I don't want the lathe to cut into my cable sheathing but i am wondering if I was careful if this would be ok.

I have had great success with all my pours but I am always open to new suggestions.

gideond

We had considered this recently on a job we did. WarmTiles expressly recommended against it. They really didn't want us to use lathe at all. We used Drytec 7600 self leveling compound, which when poured this enough doesn't need the lathe.

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carterarce

Thanks Gideon. I like the self leveling but man what a mess.

I've used it a couple times but I noticed if I didn't get it all in one pour the seam had a ridge that I had to float out with thinset. Do you think generally it's a two guy job and it should be mixed in bigger quantities?

I ended up cutting the lathe into strips and nailing it in between my cable runs. I have a good system. That floor isn't going anywhere.

gideond

Yes, self leveling is not something you want to tackle alone. We mix about 100 lbs. at a time in a big garbage can and pour it out.

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carterarce

brilliant.

Floordude

A mixer pump is the best way.

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gideond

Mixers pumps are definitely nice. In our case we don't do large scale self-leveling enough to really need one. At least not yet. I have a school we a quoting that wants 25000 SF at 3" deep done. I'm still trying to figure out why a new slab next to the old one is that far off.

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Bud Cline

Back to the original question.

Why not use "plastic lath"?

We don't use lath however. No need for it. Prep the perimeter, dam the doors and floor vents and stool flange, install the expansion foam, prime the floor, install the system, pour SLC, done.

Never had a problem with SLC, no muss, no fuss, perfect surface every time.

dave peffer

Over the past 2-3 years, I've run into many mud jobs that have been 3'' deep. One reason is that GC's are becomming construction managers and don't know what they are doing. Another reason is that the engineer is wrong. Another reason is that the elevator installer was wrong. Or I think GC's are tired of bushing down floors because of bad concrete work.
In any case, there is no way you can absorb 25,000 sqft of materials and labor for an added 1 1/4" without losing your shirt. I have begun to quote mudwork at my price for up to 2" only. Should the floor be deeper, I add my costs. Trust me, when you get to the table, they will never tell you how deep the mud will be, (they don't know!).
Note: Beware of construction managers. Qualify your bid to include power, water, lift, and dumpster every time and make sure it gets in the contract!!!!!
Hint: Deep Mud----You really need to make sure the wire is done right on this. Try a lanscapers rake, rake out the mud, lay down the wire, roll it with a drum roller, then top it with mud to the correct height. This will save you lots of labor if wire is spec'd, which it should be.
Good luck-need help?

Bud Cline

SOMEONE isn't paying attention.

How did this thread get from a 45 square foot bathroom floor to a 25,000 square foot floor, or whatever???

Where are the Moderators? This thread keeps going seriously .

Unless I'm reading a different thread than anyone else.