Caulk at tubline... ...or grout? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Bazooka Joe · 10-16-2008, 05:41 PM

Hi folks,
..everything ive read has said to caulk between new tile and a tub after a shower/bath tile job, instead of grouting along the upper edge of the tub. Im wondering if thats the best thing to do. Ive always wondered if that grungy silicone thats always found in that location on older installations is because water has found its way to the caulk line from the back.
Opinions?

thanks very much
Mike

jarvis design · 10-16-2008, 05:48 PM

The reason caulking is recommended is because of the movement between the tub and the surround. Unless you are installing a cast-iron tub with mud walls, steel enamel and acrylic tubs, no matter how well they are installed, will move somewhat. Personally, I agree with you that grout would be a lot better, however, I have seen the result of not applying caulking - cracked grout which lets moisture in behind. What I normally do is buy a tube of colour matched caulking when I am getting grout for the job - and simply caulk with it.
As always, I always recommend using concrete board behind your tile, Kerdi waterproof membrane, plus epoxy grout.

Cheers!!

tommymcollins · 10-16-2008, 06:25 PM

ditto, colored caulk

Mellison · 10-16-2008, 06:36 PM

The seam in question should be quite tight. Add grout then follow up with a skinny bead of caulk.

bert0168 · 10-16-2008, 06:42 PM

These guys are right, caulk the tub/wall joint.

I have seen tile guys do this to exactly match caulk to grout:

Take a tube of silicone or siliconized latex caulk and dump the whole thing onto a piece of plywood.

Remove the plunger cap or get these http://buy.epoxyheads.com/emcatu.html

Using the caulk you dumped out, mix in the dry grout powder you used on the tile until the color matches that of the dried grout (applied to the tile)

Put the "custom colored " grout into the tube and caulk away.

Bud Cline · 10-16-2008, 06:58 PM

Quote:

The seam in question should be quite tight. Add grout then follow up with a skinny bead of caulk.

That advice right there is just so wrong.

Mike Finley · 10-16-2008, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

These guys are right, caulk the tub/wall joint.

I have seen tile guys do this to exactly match caulk to grout:

Take a tube of silicone or siliconized latex caulk and dump the whole thing onto a piece of plywood.

Remove the plunger cap or get these http://buy.epoxyheads.com/emcatu.html

Using the caulk you dumped out, mix in the dry grout powder you used on the tile until the color matches that of the dried grout (applied to the tile)

Put the "custom colored " grout into the tube and caulk away.

Yow.

Or just spend $3.75 and buy a tube of the grout manufactuers color matched caulk when you buy your grout.

(Sorry, wise ass alert)

Alwaysconfusd11 · 10-16-2008, 07:06 PM

Uhh $8.75! And thats just to much IMO.

Just do it right and caulk it.

PrecisionFloors · 10-16-2008, 07:16 PM

All plane changes should be caulked, period. Caulking over grout is a horrible idea.

Alwaysconfusd11 · 10-16-2008, 07:17 PM

What about back splashes? Do any of you grout then clear silicone over it where the tile meets the CT?

**ChrWright** · 10-16-2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline

That advice right there is just so wrong.

Indeed. Lots of bad advice floating around.

There'd better be a gap for the caulk or it's going to start peeling in no time.

As Mike said--why not just pick a grout manuf. that has matched caulks for their colors.?

Sealant joints are control joints--for all plane or material changes.

**ChrWright** · 10-16-2008, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alwaysconfusd11

What about back splashes? Do any of you grout then clear silicone over it where the tile meets the CT?

Caulks on the surface of anything aren't going to do any good. It's not meant to be a coating--It's meant to create a flexible fill for a gap.

No gap... no good.

Bazooka Joe · 10-18-2008, 01:28 AM

thanks for the insight guys. ...will caulk it.

Brock · 10-18-2008, 02:15 AM

1. Fill tub with water.
2. Silicone (pick your color)
3. Tell home owner to wait 24 hours and empty tub.
4. Don't go back because you wont get a call back.

Winchester · 10-22-2008, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brock

1. Fill tub with water.
2. Silicone (pick your color)
3. Tell home owner to wait 24 hours and empty tub.
4. Don't go back because you wont get a call back.

I like this advice.

AbsoluteBaumer · 11-07-2008, 11:29 PM

it is definitely the proper procedure to silicone that transition from tile to tub. Also, watch out for the qualtiy of tile when doing this. If the tile is cheap and really thin, some thinner gauge tubs might flex when filled for a bath. This weight in the future could cause a "pull" on the cheap tile and crack it. Fill tub before siliconing to avoid this.

AbsoluteBaumer · 11-08-2008, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alwaysconfusd11

What about back splashes? Do any of you grout then clear silicone over it where the tile meets the CT?

Since the kitchen backsplash is a very visual location, i prefer to include that joint when i grout and silicone it once it has cured with clear.

Winchester · 11-08-2008, 01:07 AM

The reason the caulk gets so grungy that has been explained to me in the past (and makes sense) is that when the moisture behind the tiles gets down to the caulk it has nowhere to go and that breeds bad stuff. Ideally grout would be the better choice because it would let out the moisture. However, like everyone has said, grout will crack because tubs can move.

Something like this schluter product would probably be better, but obviously more expensive:

However, unlike caulk it is maintenance free

forsmant · 12-11-2008, 07:34 PM

Do you suggest caulking the vertical corners of a shower with matching grout caulk or to fill them with grout?

Bud Cline · 12-11-2008, 08:50 PM

ALL changes in plane or when meeting dissimilar materials should be caulked.