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03-09-2009, 04:56 PM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
Handyman Services and Home Improvements
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Posts: 210
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To Caulk or not Caulk.
I'm putting the finishing touches on a bathroom remodel tomorrow. I put in a three piece tub unit from Sterling directly on the 3/4" sub floor. Cement board and 12" x 12" tile on a 45 against the tub. 1/4" joints w/ sanded grout. My question is whether or not to try to caulk up against the tub on top of that grout line. I'd rather not as I'm pretty sure it will look like  , but I don't want any problems down the road w/ water getting in there. I laid the tile last week and there is no separation between the grout and tub as of yet.
Whadduyathink?
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03-09-2009, 05:07 PM
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#2
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Internet Creep
Trade:
Kitchen/Bath Remodeling, Tile
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Will County, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyHails
Whadduyathink?
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You messed up.
Any change of plane needs to be caulked, not grouted. It's in the TCNA handbook.
__________________
"If you're good at something, never do it for free."
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03-09-2009, 05:17 PM
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#3
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Pro
Trade:
Handyman Services and Home Improvements
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Posts: 210
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I could go ahead and grind that grout out of there. It would only take like 10 minutes. I think that's what I'll do.
Thanks Angus!
By the way would the change of plane include the marble threshold as well?
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03-09-2009, 06:27 PM
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#4
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New Guy
Trade:
Building & Remodeling. Kitchens & Bath. Tile
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 20
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If you mean where the tub meets the tile and you only used cement board you will probably have to caulk.. I kerdi over the tub flange, then I will grout. I am totally against using caulking where the flange is. If water gets behind the tile it will run down and get trapped where you used caulking, it has no where to go. I would rather replace grout that possibly could fall out than have a moldy disaster. Just grout where the marble thresholds are.
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03-09-2009, 08:01 PM
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#5
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Tiling Contractor
Trade:
Tiling
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Harriman, NY (50 miles north of NYC)
Posts: 120
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TCNA guidelines. You have to caulk that area. The constant movement of the tub will cause the grout to crack. Once the grout cracks, water will get in there and under the tub.
I've seen so many instances where contractors are lazy and don't caulk in front of the tub. The grout ALWAYS cracks!
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03-09-2009, 08:36 PM
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#6
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New Guy
Trade:
Building & Remodeling. Kitchens & Bath. Tile
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 20
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If you use the caulking, fill the tub up with water first and then caulk. Yes there is a chance for the grout to crack as I previously mentioned. Definately not all the time. Water will get in the grout and you want it to escape at the bottom where the grout is. It will stay trapped with caulking. If you use the silicone you will see in a few years about the trapped water. I have been doing bathrooms for 15 yrs. & I found this is the best method. Not LAZY just EXPERIENCE. Think about both methods and use your own preference.
Last edited by Rob79; 03-09-2009 at 08:47 PM.
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03-09-2009, 08:58 PM
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#7
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Catch what you'll eat.
Trade:
Tile & Paint
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,732
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How does water get through siliconized caulk? We're not using white lightning here. If you're using TEC grout, for instance, TEC makes a siliconized caulk (sanded and non) that matches color for pretty much every color grout they put out.
I usually set DensShield atop unmodified thinset over whole subfloor (even under tub and cabinetry), tape mud the seems, screw down, then come back and coat the screws/joints with liquid waterproofer. Now you have a completely waterproof floor. No rot. No stains on cieling below if a flood or mishap occurs. Slap a 15 yr warranty on the job and its sold!
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Matt; tile contractor in Charlotte, NC
704-605-0907
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03-09-2009, 09:07 PM
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#8
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New Guy
Trade:
Building & Remodeling. Kitchens & Bath. Tile
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 20
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Water will not go through caulk, that is the problem I mentioned. Grout is not waterproof so it will penetrate the grout joints and not escape at the bottom where the caulk is. If you use grout at the flange it has a place to escape.
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03-09-2009, 09:21 PM
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#9
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The Remodeler
Trade:
Home Remodeler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 453
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Rob79- He's talking about floor tile here, not wall tile over the tub...
Remove the grout... Another issue besides a crack forming is squeaks. The slightest deflection in the acrylic tub will cause the loudest damned squeak as they step in and out caused by the plastic tub rubbing against the hard grout.
__________________
- Alex
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03-09-2009, 09:26 PM
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#10
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New Guy
Trade:
Building & Remodeling. Kitchens & Bath. Tile
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 20
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Thanks Splinter, my bad  . Definatley the caulking there.
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03-10-2009, 04:06 AM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Handyman Services and Home Improvements
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Posts: 210
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Thanks guys. I'll take care of it today. I appreciate all the input.
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03-10-2009, 06:45 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Tile Contractor-Manufacturers rep. Tile & Marble
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Troy, Michigan
Posts: 153
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I also recommend either acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. I do not recommend 100% silicone in any tile installation where it is likely that the surface may get wet on both sides. It seems to trap moisture more than acrylic caulks and turns black.
Matt,
You changed to subject to floors, but why are you using unmod under DenShield? Also NO WAY will that floor be watertight  unless you flash a membrane up the walls and make a curb too. If you spill a bucket of water on a floor done that way, the water will get downstairs before you're able to get there.
Jaz
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