2 speed axle question? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Big Chris · 10-05-2008, 03:21 PM

I just bought a 1990 International 4900 single axle dump truck. It has a 5 speed trans with a two speed rear axle. The sticker in the cab says it is a Spicer Double Duty D with two speed axle. My question is what is the PROPER way to shift the rear axle? Both low to high and high to low. Thanks in advance guys.

MALCO.New.York · 10-05-2008, 03:57 PM

The first or so page (page sequence changes) on this Google search is the Dana Spicer shifting instructions. It is a downloadable PDF file.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...d+axle&spell=1

joesauers · 10-05-2008, 08:19 PM

Chris,

I also own a 1990 International 4900 dump truck with the same transmission. I have used it to tow all of my equipment from backhoes to paver to a D3 dozer. Malco's weblink pretty much sums it up but it may be a little confusing for you the first time. I'm not sure if you will be trailering or how much weight you will be carrying so I'll just give a quick rundown right now and you can get back to me with more questions.

Lets assume you are on level ground with the truck empty. I normally start in 1H, and run through all of the gears while leaving the button in high. You don't HAVE to use the button all of the time.

Now lets assume you are at a redlight, with the truck loaded, and facing an uphill grade. I would most likely start in 1H, go to 2L, 2H, 3L, 3H, 4L, 4H, 5L, 5H.

Also, as Malco's weblink states, NEVER play with the button while going down hill until you have some experience. You can flip the button up while going downhill if the conditions are perfect, but I never flip the button down no matter what when going downhill.

To shift from 2L to 2H (for example): Drive along until you are at the proper RPM for upshifting, lift the button, ease off the gas, let the clutch in and out (to make for a smoother shift), get back on the gas and that is it. You can do it without using the clutch, but the truck will jerk which is not good.

To shift from 2H to 3L (for example): Drive along until you are at the proper RPM, while moving the stick from 2nd to 3rd and holding the clutch in, push the button down. When you release the clutch in 3rd gear, the rear will be in low range, and you will be in 3L.

Sorry for the long post but I hope it helps.

Big Chris · 10-05-2008, 08:38 PM

exactly what I needed. Thank you

Big Chris · 10-05-2008, 08:50 PM

Thanks for the explanation Joe. I'll mostly be using it for towing my backhoe. So roughly 10 tons of trailer weight. The truck is close to perfect for me. It has a 12 ft contractors dump bed with folding sides. 20 ton pintle hitch,33K GVW, DT466 @245 hp.

joesauers · 10-05-2008, 09:26 PM

Great. Yes sounds like the truck should be perfect. Mine is the same GVW and engine. Mine has been problem free except once the shifter got stuck in a gear and couldn't be freed. Had to have it towed and the trans worked on. I came to find out that it is a common problem unfortunately. The truck repair garage said they run into the problem all the time. Luckily it hasn't happened since. Good luck with everything.

**Teetorbilt** · 10-05-2008, 11:20 PM

We used to call it split shifting and double clutching. I used to drive old International's and Mack's with 'crash box' tranny's.

MALCO.New.York · 10-06-2008, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joesauers

Great. Yes sounds like the truck should be perfect. Mine is the same GVW and engine. Mine has been problem free except once the shifter got stuck in a gear and couldn't be freed. Had to have it towed and the trans worked on. I came to find out that it is a common problem unfortunately. The truck repair garage said they run into the problem all the time. Luckily it hasn't happened since. Good luck with everything.

If what is being described here is what I think it may be, here is a solution.

If this ever happens, it usually is as simple as lifting the shifter boot, removing the 8 or so screws that hold the stick in place, lifting the stick up slightly and placing the stick in a neutral position. Occasionally the stick end, the actual actuator "nub", (for lack of the proper term) jumps a shift fork gate and jams.

If this becomes a constant problem, I have found that it can be rectified by increasing the length of the "nub" by an 1/8" using a stick or wire feed spot weld. Just add a little bit more metal to the overall length.

Easy fix that at first seems as though the transmission has seized.