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02-04-2008, 02:42 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
ARCHITECT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
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Residential HVAC pricing
can anyone share their insight on my pricing for A/C installation on my new home
didnt know if this was a good place to post this but i figured i would try
if yes, i will post the details here
many thanks in advance
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02-04-2008, 03:13 PM
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#2
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HVAC Old Timer
Trade:
HVAC
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South New Jersey
Posts: 99
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Do it the usual way, by asking HVAC contractors to take a look and make a bid. As an architect, examine how many of the homes you design that are cookie-cutter same size and layout using exactly the same appliance manufacturers with the same labor costs for all and every company so it can be done unseen. I think you know the reason there are companies that list new projects asking for bids and sending out blueprints.
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02-04-2008, 03:42 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Trade:
ARCHITECT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
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actually, i do mostly commercial, ive never done a residential setup, i just bought my first house and the pricing im getting from three vendors seems to be in the same range, around 7000-8000
the ducting to the registers was in place the original owners never put in the ac unit or the condenser outside, one contractor tells me the y will put in a 13 seer heil at 3.5 tons, the other tells me the same but lennox, the next tells me trane, i dont know which is which in terms of manufacturer, which performs better
the fact that they are all coming in with 1k of each other i guess is good but the higher bid seems more genuine and he seems to know his stuff, and demands to do a heat loss calculation before doing any work which i appreciate
i just dont want to make a mistake here
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02-04-2008, 03:44 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Trade:
ARCHITECT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
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oh, all r410a refrigerant, and the higher bid gentleman also said he would make sure all ducting was to code, and many other things which sounded like good practice but as he says many outfits just dont generally do
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02-04-2008, 04:33 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Trade:
Lighting automation
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
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If he truly wants to do a heat calc (manual J), grab him and don't let go.
You wouldn't believe how many contractors have been through my place. Even the ones who say they do, tried to fake it.
You should have what resembles a computer printout with your data. He should spend some time measuring your house (dimensions, windows & doors, insulation values, orientation, infiltration, etc.) If you get a cursory look-see, forget about it. He could work from architectural plans.
There should be values for heat losses and heat gains (sensible & latent). Good luck.
D
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02-04-2008, 05:41 PM
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#6
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HVAC Old Timer
Trade:
HVAC
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South New Jersey
Posts: 99
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02-04-2008, 06:02 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,376
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I replaced a 3 ton about 5 yrs. ago (Trane) and the A/C guy (an old buddy) told me to install a 13 SEER condenser with a 16 SEER handler. I forget why but would be interested in comments, you might be too.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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02-04-2008, 07:56 PM
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#8
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HVAC Old Timer
Trade:
HVAC
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South New Jersey
Posts: 99
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Actually, there is no such thing as a 13 SEER condenser without the matching blower/coil recommended by the factory. Neither is there a 16 SEER air handler; just an air handler that is matched with the condensing unit that is also 16 SEER. That is, there are only sets matched during testing to give a tested SEER rating for publication.
It might be that an air handler that is rated for 16 SEER with a certain 16 SEER outdoor unit is also used with a 13 SEER outdoor unit, making a factory rating of 13 SEER.
His idea was probably based on the usual that a larger coil of a certain ton rating is used with a smaller outdoor unit. It often happens that for example a matching 3 ton outdoor unit is used with a factory-matched and tested 5-ton coil and air handler to make the maximum SEER rating.
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02-05-2008, 11:17 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Trade:
ARCHITECT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
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ok, thanks a lot for your help everyone
the form you linked to only does single room cooling load, hmmm
for a control, im getting a sears rep to come out, hope im not over analyzing this whole process
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02-05-2008, 12:27 PM
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#10
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HVAC Old Timer
Trade:
HVAC
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South New Jersey
Posts: 99
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You can use it to get an idea of the whole house as one room for the tons, saving the time of doing room-by-room.
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02-05-2008, 12:49 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Trade:
ARCHITECT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
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yes, that is a good idea, i understand, something to do this weekend!
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02-05-2008, 06:55 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Trade:
Residential HVAC
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 14
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I have subcontracted with/for Sears HVAC before and at least in my area all they do is sell. i.e. you get a sales man at your house who may or may not have any hvac experience - no heat load (or least not a real heat load) The big thing Sears pushes is their financing and company name. Even though they sub out all the work.
Gary.
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02-29-2008, 08:52 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Trade:
Commercial Property Services
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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Check references on your contractors, I unfortunately had a HVAC company (A-1 CC, Wall) here in NJ doing residential work that did not exist. Contractors of all areas of are a dime a dozen weed out the pros.Get the bids and the references.
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03-04-2008, 05:30 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Trade:
Heating and Cooling Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NW Missouri
Posts: 1
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Run the load on your home?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aseid
can anyone share their insight on my pricing for A/C installation on my new home
didnt know if this was a good place to post this but i figured i would try
if yes, i will post the details here
many thanks in advance
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Been at this a lota years, and you need to remember that "running a load" on your home is fine, especially if you are dealing with someone of lesser experience. Okay, flack you'll get from some posters, but if you're bidding the same house you've done a couple of hundred times, you (the sales person) will have a very good idea what you will need. And if he (or she) has enough experience they'll also take a look at how the home is lived in. A 2000 sq. ft. home with 6 teenage girls will have a LOT more traffic than a home with an elderly couple in it. Yeah, the load programs allow for number of bodies, but face it, a home with 6 teenagers will be like cooling a Lipton T-bag. Running a "load" on every quote is a good idea, but I'm sure this person will wind up in the same size boat as any other experienced home comfort sales person. As to brand, my experience has been that the more advertising a company does, the more they will charge for their units, and quite possibly, the less quality the units will have in them. I've sold many of the "big name" units, and have gotten really tired of their "advertising" offers, many times at the customer and contractor's expense. Gotta run, GOOD LUCK!
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03-06-2008, 09:14 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Trade:
HVAC Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
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I would always recommend a load analysis. Would you want your doctor to prescribe without a check up? We sell all brands and the difference is distributor support to the contractor and then the contractor support to the customer. Some of the cheaper brands do have problems with parts availability during peak times and after a certain life cycle.
Your top of the line unit on the market today is the Carrier/Bryant Infinity/Evolution line of products. The best control, the best comfort, the best indoor air quality options, and the quietest. After that if it is all about price, I would look at Ruud/Rheem line. Run as fast as you can from the Sears' pitch.
Good luck and all the best!!
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03-06-2008, 09:17 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Trade:
HVAC Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teetorbilt
I replaced a 3 ton about 5 yrs. ago (Trane) and the A/C guy (an old buddy) told me to install a 13 SEER condenser with a 16 SEER handler. I forget why but would be interested in comments, you might be too.
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That would have brought your total system SEER in at around 14 or 14.5 with that type of configuration.
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07-09-2008, 08:11 PM
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#17
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HVAC Tech, NATE certified
Trade:
Hvac technician. Economy Heating, Pittsbur
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pgh, Pa.
Posts: 58
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since i cant post a link to the pdf form. google search manual j worksheet. pick the one with eminnetonka in the webaddress.
man i gotta start reading the dates. its probably been in for 4 months now
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07-09-2008, 09:12 PM
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#18
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Member
Trade:
Energy Performance
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teetorbilt
I replaced a 3 ton about 5 yrs. ago (Trane) and the A/C guy (an old buddy) told me to install a 13 SEER condenser with a 16 SEER handler. I forget why but would be interested in comments, you might be too.
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Don't get hung up on a SEER rating. SEER is a completely made up number and has little relation to the true efficiency of the system. ASHRAE did a study back in 2002 that pretty much said the same thing.
The reasons why SEER ratings stink are legion. If anyone wants the ASHRAE study, I am more than willing to email it to anyone who wants it. just PM me with an email address that will accept a pdf attachment.
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07-09-2008, 09:43 PM
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#19
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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I got my HVAC system installed in the latest house for $5,000. That included all the materials, 95% furnace, 13 or 14 seer AC, ductwork, etc. Used to be able to do it much less expensive but my friend in that business switched jobs.
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07-09-2008, 09:44 PM
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#20
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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Oh, my first bid was for $12,000, then many for $8,000, then one for $5,500, then the one for $5,000.
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