Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters

 
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:25 PM   #1
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Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


I am a carpenter by trade, I have some plumbing skills, (I often have to perform incidental plumbing during remodels). But my HVAC knowledge is very limited. I need a few pointers. Where better to turn, then to my expert friends at this forum. I will soon be starting a remodeling job in which I will need to relocate two baseboard (hydronic) heaters. My question is: Do I need to drain the heating system in order to move the units? If so, is there a standard procedure that I should follow? and how about starting the system back up once the heaters are in their new locations? The furnace/boiler is an oil burning system. The units I will be moving are on the second (top) floor of the house - if that matters. Tips, pointers, advice, feedback wanted................. Thanx

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Old 01-18-2007, 01:10 AM   #2
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


There are a million ways these systems can be done. Preferably each loop (room) is valved and if so shut the system down, release the pressure without introducing air into the system (sometimes tricky but usually possible) and seal the loop being renovated. Be sure to install air breathers/pressure taps at the highest point in the new system if for nothing else than to allow manual release of air pockets. There are also a variety of in-line air breathers available but all I am aware of must be installed spacifacally.
And now I must check my dictionary to learn how to spell spacifically.
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:34 PM   #3
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley View Post
There are a million ways these systems can be done. Preferably each loop (room) is valved and if so shut the system down, release the pressure without introducing air into the system (sometimes tricky but usually possible) and seal the loop being renovated. Be sure to install air breathers/pressure taps at the highest point in the new system if for nothing else than to allow manual release of air pockets. There are also a variety of in-line air breathers available but all I am aware of must be installed spacifacally.
And now I must check my dictionary to learn how to spell spacifically.

How did you ever get into that strange combination? HVAC/swimming pools, never seen that before.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #4
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


Hey guys, I am in almost the same situation as FMK. A couple follow up questions....

How do I release the pressure in the system without introducing air? Just close the valve?

And how do I not introduce air? I will need to cut, relocate and solder several copper pipes. Won't cutting them introduce air into them?

Hurley's post was helpful, but I could use a more detailed step by step set of instructions. Thanks guys!
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:07 PM   #5
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


There is no way to do what you are doing without getting some air in your system. You can minimize it with isolation valves if they are there. Air bleeders are usually installed strategically at high points in the loops. If the boiler heating system was installed bysome one that knew what they were doing there is probably also an air eliminator on the main loop on the system that automatically bleeds air. You will need to manually bleed off as much of the air as possible and make sure pumps dont get air locked. If you aren't sure of what you are doing. Buy a plumber a beer and see if he will help...they like beer and money.
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:46 PM   #6
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


btw...why did you post this in HVAC?
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Old 09-16-2009, 11:14 PM   #7
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Re: Moving Baseboard Hydronic Heaters


You will get air regardless. Make sure you install a vent or some sort of bleeder. Shut your boiler and pumps off. Shut your auto feed off. Bleed down the system a bit. After you are done with your connections, open your isolation valves and vent/bleeder screw. Open your automatic water feed in the basement and it will fill the system. Have some towels ready near the vents or bleeders. You will get a bit of water to come out. Restore the pump for flow. You may have to vent the system again after running the pump for a short period. Just repeat the process again. Go ahead and turn on boiler.

Hopefully you won't have dirty boiler water which will cause clogs in the pipes and vents. You can verify by checking temps at all baseboards. If one is cooler you may have lack of water flow which may result in pipes freezing.

You can fix this by opening a union and passing the dirt out. If doing this, expect a lot of mess.
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