Heat Pump Vs Central A/C

mugiber

I live in Buffalo, New York in a 5500 sq. ft home. I need to replace my old furnaces.(Two estimates from companies that did a manual J...I also had 6 other estimates that did not). The house is split in half with a big side and a smaller side:


Estimate 1:
Modulating Variable 93% Furaces
RUUD UGFD-12ERCMS 120K $4600
RUUD UGFD-07EMCKS 75K $4400
16SEER A/C
RUUD UARL-060 5ton $5000
RUUD UARL-036 3ton $3950
Will add Air Cleaner, Humidifier, Duct Cleaning, and 2 Modulating thermostats for additional $2700

Estimate 2:
Heat Pump-Classic Series
Rheem RCFA-H*3621A 3 ton $3875
Rheem RCFA-H*3621A 3 ton $3875
Gas Furnace
Rheem Contour Modulating
(not sure of number but same exact brochure as RUUD's above)
Rheem Contour 105K $4400
Rheem Contour 75K $4300
They will add insulation for 5400(about 1500-2000 sq ft of attic max...which already has fiberglass or old cork). The will also include a media filter and modulating thermostat for free. The do not believe I need a separate filter, humidifier or duct cleaning.

Which one would you choose? Would you pay an extra $200 per unit for a 10y instead of 5y warrantly?Thanks much in advance.

flashheatingand

No replies? ... I'll bite.
I would go for the heat pump. I don't know too much about Buffalo summers, but I'll be dollars to donuts you will have a greater benefit using the heat pump as opposed to the 16 S.E.E.R air conditioner. Sure the furnaces are great, but word at the news desk is that gas prices are increasing significantly quicker than electric. Why not have the best of both worlds. See if the heat pump uses r410 as the refrigerant. Nothing wrong with r-22, but it is getting phased out and production will cease in 2020. It's your call, just be aware. I might pay for the extended warranty on the furnace. Variable speed and modulating gas valves can be quite pricey. But, I would advise my Aunt Gerdie to pass on the extended warranty for the a/c or h/p.

Hey, why does one company bid a five ton unit and a three ton unit. While the other outfit bids two three ton units? Does the insulation have something to do with the sizes?

im4snow

In general, the heat pump option will be more cost effective to operate. I say that without knowing your elec and gas rates.

Down here we can make heat cheaper with a heat pump in the moderate months (Oc/Nov and late March through early May) then burning a fossil fuel.

The quality and quantity of your insulation shouldn't be neglected. Many people assume if they spend for a new hvac system, all their problems will be solved. I'd say, as a builder, you're leaving opportunity for comfort and cost savings on the table if your insulation is sub-par. Today in that region code (new construction) would call for R-48ish in the attic. Also, if you have attic access (stairs or access panel) ensure some enclosure is insulated and reasonably air tight built around that "hole".

Charlot

I think heat pump is mostly used for commercial, and gas line is not available. However, if electricity cost more than natural gas then go for Central A/C.

72chevy4x4

you probably did not get more replies because this is a HO post.

delta l

I suspect those Mods will be running a lot (8* OD design temp). What was your Man J heat loss/gain?

Seems to be a little lobsided; about 180,000 BTUs output on the Mods (combined) vs. less than 100,000 BTUs from those HPs.

Why would anyone quote a Mod thermostat as an option with that furnace.

Delta

studog

I would go the route of the heat pumps with the modulating furnaces. The furnaces would be back up to the heat pumps. The most efficient system in my opinion is the heat pump with gas heat as your back up. As far as the extended warranty go for it parts are expensive. I am a rheem dealer and you can make a mod 90 into a three stage unit. As far as the mod stat it is made by white rogers and you do not need it, you can put on a 2 stage stat have first stage be the heat pump and auxillary or emergency heat turn on the furnace. If you do it that way you set up the dip switches inside the furnace for single stage stat and it will turn that furnace int a 3 stage unit. The first 5 minutes the furnace would run at 40% than up to 65% for 7 minutes more and if needed after that 12 minutes will go to 100% firing rate. So there you have it that furnace would hardly run at 100% firing unless real cold outside which i imagine it gets in Buffalo.

coolmen

The 13 stage mod furnace would be useless if you connect with the heatpump as a duel setup. The UGFD unit works GREAT on its own but I would go with a less expensives unit if doing a duel set up. You would not get full use of the mod furnace. stage 1 heatpump,stage 2 gas UGRK 2 stage gas vale

Roof Cleaning

My brother, is a Tampa Air Conditioning Contractor, so I asked him.'
He said he would suggest a heat pump instead of a straiht cool air conditioner.

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