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Old 11-24-2008, 08:19 PM   #1
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Geothermal to heat house under construction?

New residential home construction. ICF walls, geothermal furnace doing both forced-air and hot water for radiant heat in basement concrete floor.

Any reason I can't have the heating subcontractor go ahead and install the geothermal furnace but only hook up the radiant heat part in the basement floor? I think it would keep the house temperature at a reasonable level during inside construction phases this winter.

I understand why you wouldn't hook up the forced-air part due to dust etc., but are there any moving parts in the hot water part of a geothermal furnace that might be harmed by drywall dust, insulation fibers, etc.?

My heating sub has never done this before but we don't know why it won't work.

Thanks in advance,
Greg

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Old 11-24-2008, 11:14 PM   #2
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The compressor is located outdoors? or is the compressor going to be installed in the air-handler?
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:49 PM   #3
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Go ahead and do it, it will be much nicer working.

I do this even with a normal heat pump. The drywall guys like having the nice dry heat to help dry things out. But I do put filter material on all vents, heat vents and return air. The filters over the floor vents are just mainly to keep crap from falling in off of the floor, and any drywall mud and texture.
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:19 AM   #4
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also if you can put the cheapo filters in it for the furnace. That is what we do and replace them every week or so. Beats the hell outta freezing first thing in the mornin and that last tool your wrapping up at the end of the day! just set the temp to the lowest setting. Mine is 55 more then bearable to work in.
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:35 PM   #5
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Thanks guys--

Hall and Kg - I don't think we will even need the forced air part if we get the basement concrete floor up to decent temp.

Flash - there is no compressor outside, it's a Waterfurnace ground-coupled heat pump Synergy 3D model.

We could put in a temporary furnace, but I figure we might as well use this since it is the most efficient way to do it.
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:33 PM   #6
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Your idea to just use the water side is the best approach.

Just be aware the it will void the warranty if you use it for construction heat.
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Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:09 PM   #7
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You gotta be kidding, why would that void the warranty?
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgmz View Post
You gotta be kidding, why would that void the warranty?
If you don't understand the damage caused by running a new heating unit for construction heat, then you should turn in your contractor license.
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:27 PM   #9
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Dewayne -

I'm not the heating contractor, but I don't see why it would be a problem in this case. The house, being ICF, is already airtight and insulated on the walls. Windows, doors (maybe only temporary) will be in place and the cellulose blown in above the ceiling.

Why no warranty?
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:30 AM   #10
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It is the manufacturer who makes up the terms of the warranty.
I have done the very thing you are contemplating on a radiant system after telling the owner of the warranty issue.
I just wanted to make you aware of the warranty issue.
FWIW, I would never use a forced air geo unit for construction heat.
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