MattK

I have a raised ranch finished above, completely open below. Each floor 1000 s.f. All ducts are in for use with the heating system. The trunk duct line runs next to the center stick beams. All registers are through the floor, nothing in the attic. New house with all updated flex ducts that branch out. Looking to get a split system set up with the condenser outside and tap into the existing inside. How much would that approximately cost? Thinking 5 ton, 7 at the most(overkill?)13 seer. Dont want to spend crazy money on the new hydroair and more efficient systems. House is in new england, AC is used from june to september, july and august alot. I know there is a method to sizing the system, so any help in pricing with install or sizing the unit would be appreciated.

MattK

Also house is moderately open to southern exposure. A large tree in front and in back. Also insulation is high all windows are new and attic is insulated well. cathedral ceilings in main living/dining to about 11 ft. 6/12 roof. about a third of the house is shaded.

westernhvac

What is the r value in the walls, the ceiling, glazing square footage and which direction does it face? What is your latitude? What is the percentage of shade on each side of your home? How much of the basement is above grade? What is the flooring over basement? How many appliances? How many people will be living there? Should I continue?

delta l

You don't need 5 - 7 tons (probably get by with 2.5 - 3 tons. You want one that will run almost constantly on the hottest days.

Before you have any contractors to your home, ask them if they do heat calcs to size equipment. It will save you a lot of time and frustration.

Don't be 'impressed' with: "I've been in the business for 30 years....blah blah blah" or use square footage rules of thumb.

You can do your own heat calc. Google hvac-calc.

Delta

LawnGuyLand

I agree, but answer me this... When a development goes in with 200 identical houses, but each is oriented differently, and some buyers opted for the bigger thermopane windows, and other buyers opted for laminate floors instead of carpet, and some got black roofs and others got white, do you do a manual j for each one?

NickTech

technically yes, each home will have its own heat loss and heat gain "personallity" do to construction factors. but i doubt it's done. with automated CAD programs it wouldn't be too hard to change HTM factors, but again i doubt it's ever done.

beenthere

Use This to determine what size system you need.

And cross your fingers the duct work is big enough.

MattK

I got a few estimates in the 3300 range for R22 and the 3800 range for R410A. Is there really a large disparity between the systems. Also, is there a huge profit margin for this type of job, i rough estimate materials at between 2000 and 2300. Should take about an entire day to install. Why so much upcharge? Unfortunately, they are getting the prices so no need to lower down.

Leo G

Because the contractor needs to make a living and pay all of his overhead. Go for the newer R410A system, R22 is going to be phased out like R12 was.

__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON. http://lrgwood.com

beenthere

They ain't making much money at those prices.

NickTech

air handler, condensing unit, duct work, boots, registers, t-stat line set, plumbing, electric, and labor for 3300 to 3800???? does this guy owe you money? unless this is a side job(which is even super low for that) this sounds way to low to be a good job. cheap equipment and shotty work at best.

beenthere

By his post.
This is an add on to a furnace.
He said all the duct work is in.

gene2

We require a seemingly huge markup because the business is more cyclical & dependent on good weather just to perform the job. Even very carefully designing & installing or servicing can result in a lot of lost productivity with clients that have a poor conception of what is involved in providing their comfort.

Then there is the fact that I was taught by one of the best that "What we are doing here is precision guesswork" Any in this trade who has been around the block has dealt with something even the factory can't explain. Tract houses that are the same have variables that causes headaches. If you value your reputation, you do whatever it takes & end up eating the cost. Very seldom, if ever do we get reimbursed for the factory's or someone else's mistake. If we don't get such a huge markup, we eventually go broke.

MattK

Not half that, it is an add on to a furnace, plumbing is completed for the condensate pump. There is a plug for the pump in good positioning. All duct work is done, the basement is unfinished for now and all above floor rooms are finished. Just the Condenser and A coil, and obviously freon lines, etc need to be installed.

flashheatingand

just take the amount of $2,150 (our cost): Thats about $1,150 profit before expences, and liabilities. If one sold a/c's at the rate of tuna fish cans, than yeah I can see your gripe, but, there is more to it. There are the cost of doing business, not ment to go in detail here.

There you have it, you can save $500 if you go with r-22. What's your pick?

MattK

Not trying to offend, i understand how business works. I have done jobs with a large markup as well. Just thought this was 1/3 profit for little work, most of the cost is in the material so in this case it seemed much higher than normal. My choice was R22; will only be in the house 3-4 more years and i know it will become obsolete in the near future but the savings is significant right now.

beenthere

If you know how business works.
Then you know there is no 1/3 profit in that price.